determining the position of cabinet hinges on 32mm system

Thanks for that link.  From there I found this one and it is arriving on Sunday.

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usernumber1 said:
this isnt 32 system at all? you can have these holes anywhere.
I missed this post, but it’s worth commenting on.

The jig itself conforms to system32, as the locating pins are designed for 32mm spaced holes. Of course, you can drill those holes anywhere if you have an undrilled cabinet and doors, but the same applies to any system32 compatible jig, template or hardware.

The video shows someone using the jig to place hinges where they want them, which is a perfectly sensible use case, if sticking to 32mm multiple spacing gains them nothing. They can still use system32 hardware, as they have observed the important dimensions - 32mm hole spacing for each hinge plate, 37mm from the front edge.

I’m a big fan of system32, but only as far as it benefits whatever I’m building. People shouldn’t be afraid to only use the bits they actually need. Otherwise you end up with the ridiculousness seen in the OPs second photo.
 
The LR32 system set can figure the hinge holes for you. 

Fit the end stops that are 16mm different to the ones you used for the cabinet holes.
This lines any new holes up central to the cabinet holes.

You could use the point on the router cutter to mark the center point where your hinge is going.  OR fit the 40mm router cutter set the guides to the right offset for the hinge inset and cut the hinge holes.  You might have to add a few shims if your making your doors a few mm undersized as is common.
 
Hugh said:
The LR32 system set can figure the hinge holes for you. 

Fit the end stops that are 16mm different to the ones you used for the cabinet holes.
This lines any new holes up central to the cabinet holes.

You could use the point on the router cutter to mark the center point where your hinge is going.  OR fit the 40mm router cutter set the guides to the right offset for the hinge inset and cut the hinge holes.  You might have to add a few shims if your making your doors a few mm undersized as is common.

I agree that the strategy for the build in the second photo escapes me.  I would have pre-drilled the shelf holes starting about 6" from the bottom and 6" from the top and then placed the hinge plates where I wanted them. 

However in the first photo, (which is similar to what I am using) the holes are pre-drilled along the entire length of the board.  So I really have to use two of the existing holes and then locate the hinge cup accordingly. 
 
If your doors/drawers are a multiple of 32 minus desired gap between doors, you’ll need to account for this in your offset if using the LR32.
 
Something I've noticed looking at the Hettich jig and the copies... On the Hettich one, the locating pins are designed for 5mm holes (I have one myself so I can confirm that). On the photos of the copies, the pins appear to be thinner - this may be because in the US it's less common to use 5mm system screws.
 
I noticed the thinner pins.  I was hoping it was an illusion.  If not, it may not prove useful. No doubt that the color choice was to make people think it was a Kreg produced item (it seems not to be).  The Hettich blue is a much darker color.

The description says it is molded from ABS, a engineering grade of resin that should stand up.  I will get this on Sunday and I will report.

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The template I ordered was useless.  The pins were so small that it allowed about 1/4" of lateral  movement, which means that the slack exceeded the working tolerance of the hinges.

I ordered the Hettich from Amazon.de, but they canceled the order.  There seems to be some delivery issue from Germany to NY.

I just ordered the Hettich fixture from Ovis, which surprisingly has a larger shipping cost ($4.95) from Virginia than Amazon had from Germany. 

However, this time I would expect that the delivery will actually occur.
 
You don't need a jig for 4 doors. You calculate the height from the bottom of the cabinet and if you want overlay you add that dimension or subtract if you want clearance. Because the holes are 32mm centre you just add to that dimension by the number of holes between x 32mm for the top hole.

The dimension in from the edge is dependent on the hinge you use, so you must check the specs on the hinge.

If you have a drill press you can set a fence for the inset from door edge dimension and stop for depth of cut.

I always drill a couple of holes on a scrap and try that before drilling the door. To make all this work efficiently you would want to insure when you cut your gables they all have the same dimension from bottom of gable to centre of of first hole.

If you are doing a lot of this setting up a fence with flag stops speeds the process.
 
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