DIY MDF Wainscoting

[CarolinaNomad]

Here's my take.  Having the wainscotting protrude beyond the door or window casing is not attractive.  A back band should be added to the door or window casing to create a nice break between the two.  The back band could be a simple 1/4" ripped piece of mdf or a back band with a profile.  The 1/4" thick ripped piece will work as long as the transition from the casing to the back band is less than 1/4", and 1/8" to 3/16" is preferred.  If greater than 1/4", a back band with profile is needed.  The two spots that get overlooked when determining the need for back band is the type of chair railing and the baseboards.  I've seen carpenters cut a 45 on the baseboards and chair railing to make it work, but it looks OK not refined. Or add a plinth to the bottom of the door casings to handle the baseboards.  Chair railing is not required it's a matter of taste and can easily be a way to differentiate between the dinning room and the hallway.

I prefer having a mdf backing for the wainscotting.  Less prep work for finish.  But keep in mind, all exposed edges/ends of the wainscotting will need to be covered up by some form of 1/4" cove or quarter round.

3/4" rails and stiles or 1/2" is a matter of taste.  3/4" will appear bolder than say a 1/2".  Also, before making up your mind with 3/4 or 1/2", check the trim supply store for the moulding.  You may change your mind on what mould piece you like and it will dictate the thickness of your rails and stiles.

Don't forget the stiles located at inside corners will need to be the width of the stile plus the thickness of the material.  and vice a versa for outside corners.

Jeff

 

[Sydla]

Jeff, thanks for this.  That was my biggest issue with this, the idea of the wainscoting protuding past the window and door casing had me rethinking my original plan.  It just would look not right to my eye (I even took out some old left over pieces of wood and built a model of sorts to verify).  And that's what got me going with regards to the questions.

The room is not big, so I am leaning towards a more subtle panel, hence the 1/2 mdf stiles.  One solution I thought of after posting is simply make the door and window casing 3/4" like using 1x4 and then if I did use 1/8" masonite as the backing and 1/2" mdf, the door and window casings would protrude a subtle 1/8" beyond the wainscoting.  Then I could extend the chair rail slightly over the casing like most suggest instead of killing it right at the end of the casing and having to backcut it somehow.  

The other option I came up with is installing a simple square back band say 1 1/8" and then install a 1" flat board chair rail (I was not going for a large/deep chair rail anyway) and that again would give the chair rail a subtle protrusion beyond the chair rail.  I think either option would give my desired effect where the door and window casings are equal or proud of the wainscoting.

Again thanks so much for your thoughts.  

PS - One more question if you don't mind.  The door to the room is close to one wall on the right side.  Essentially there is about 3" or so from the door to the wall.  I prefer a wider casing (as I said, maybe a 1x4).  Or because of that small gap on the one side, go with a less wide casing?  Or could I keep the wider casing and just for that one side just use a casing that fits?  That's confusing.  Let's say I want to use a 1x4 with a back band that adds 1/4 inch to the width.  So the total casing would be 3.75".  With the one side only having 3" of space to the wall, could I do something like having the left side and the horizontal top of the door have the casing and the back band and then on the left side just rip down a 1x4 and fit it into the spot (thus having no backband).  Does that makes sense?  Or just go with a thinner casing that would allow me to fit the casing and back band into that 3" space?

 

[CarolinaNomad]

Jeff, thanks for this.  That was my biggest issue with this, the idea of the wainscoting protuding past the window and door casing had me rethinking my original plan.  It just would look not right to my eye (I even took out some old left over pieces of wood and built a model of sorts to verify).  And that's what got me going with regards to the questions.

The room is not big, so I am leaning towards a more subtle panel, hence the 1/2 mdf stiles.  One solution I thought of after posting is simply make the door and window casing 3/4" like using 1x4 and then if I did use 1/8" masonite as the backing and 1/2" mdf, the door and window casings would protrude a subtle 1/8" beyond the wainscoting.  Then I could extend the chair rail slightly over the casing like most suggest instead of killing it right at the end of the casing and having to backcut it somehow.  

The other option I came up with is installing a simple square back band say 1 1/8" and then install a 1" flat board chair rail (I was not going for a large/deep chair rail anyway) and that again would give the chair rail a subtle protrusion beyond the chair rail.  I think either option would give my desired effect where the door and window casings are equal or proud of the wainscoting.

Again thanks so much for your thoughts.  

PS - One more question if you don't mind.  The door to the room is close to one wall on the right side.  Essentially there is about 3" or so from the door to the wall.  I prefer a wider casing (as I said, maybe a 1x4).  Or because of that small gap on the one side, go with a less wide casing?  Or could I keep the wider casing and just for that one side just use a casing that fits?  That's confusing.  Let's say I want to use a 1x4 with a back band that adds 1/4 inch to the width.  So the total casing would be 3.75".  With the one side only having 3" of space to the wall, could I do something like having the left side and the horizontal top of the door have the casing and the back band and then on the left side just rip down a 1x4 and fit it into the spot (thus having no backband).   Does that makes sense?  Or just go with a thinner casing that would allow me to fit the casing and back band into that 3" space?

Great idea with the built model.  I did the same thing and it helped reduce some of the arguments with the wife as well as visually see where my problems spots will occur.

Either the 3" area of concern is behind the door or not, it is not the first thing one will see when entering the room.  Therefore, it is not a big enough of a issue to completely change your design.  But then again, Mike Homes would have you move the door over 3".  Personally, I would rip the 1x4 casing to fit as stated above and end the back band at the top.

Here's an idea, if your making your own casing, try creating a flat spot for the wainscotting to dead end into the casing and not in the middle of a profile.  So the 1x4 casing will have a 1 3/4" flat spot and then the profile begins.  This way, you rip the 1" off and the wainscotting can end at inside the flat spot created.  If I didn't explain that well, I can draw a picture.

Jeff

 

[Sydla]

I think I understand your last suggestion...... But a picture, if you don't mind, would probably help.

 

[CarolinaNomad]

I think I understand your last suggestion...... But a picture, if you don't mind, would probably help.

this is just an idea.  it may work or may not.

 

[Sydla]

Thanks for this.  I actually stopped at a well respected lumber/millwork yard this morning and got some ideas from them as well.  Some of the same suggestions given here.  I think I am going to use a back band and then notch the rail to extend slightly over the casing. 

 

[Grasshopper]

I just watched this video last night and enjoyed how simple the methods were:



Anybody on the FOG concerned with MDF outgassing?  I was thinking about MDF baseboards/casings and wainscoting until our local lumberyard told me he wouldn't touch the stuff.

Thoughts?

 

[JCLP]

I just watched this video last night and enjoyed how simple the methods were:



Anybody on the FOG concerned with MDF outgassing?  I was thinking about MDF baseboards/casings and wainscoting until our local lumberyard told me he wouldn't touch the stuff.

Thoughts?

Hi Grasshopper. As we all know some MDF is really bad for you. I've done some research and now all I use is an MDF panel called VESTA from a company called Flakeboard. VESTA is a specialty MDF panel manufactured using an ultra low emitting formaldehyde resin system. This makes it the optimal choice for additional LEED points, and other ULEF specified projects.

VESTA is made with 100% recycled and/or recovered wood fiber, and is an ECC™ (Eco-Certified Composite) sustainably certified product. It also leaves minimal residue on your blades.
Cheers,
JC

 

[Grasshopper]

JCLP,

Great source!  I see they have a distributor 30 minutes from me.  I will have to check them out.

I suppose it goes without saying, but I assume you are not a fan of any MDF baseboard or casing.

I just watched this video last night and enjoyed how simple the methods were:



Anybody on the FOG concerned with MDF outgassing?  I was thinking about MDF baseboards/casings and wainscoting until our local lumberyard told me he wouldn't touch the stuff.

Thoughts?

Hi Grasshopper. As we all know some MDF is really bad for you. I've done some research and now all I use is an MDF panel called VESTA from a company called Flakeboard. VESTA is a specialty MDF panel manufactured using an ultra low emitting formaldehyde resin system. This makes it the optimal choice for additional LEED points, and other ULEF specified projects.

VESTA is made with 100% recycled and/or recovered wood fiber, and is an ECC™ (Eco-Certified Composite) sustainably certified product. It also leaves minimal residue on your blades.
Cheers,
JC