DIY MFT-Like Table

FesRookie

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Joined
Jan 31, 2014
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Hello, I have the Festool STM 1800 table, and wonder if I can turn it into a MFT-like top by drilling the required holes/spacing, and added extruded aluminum to the sides.  Can someone tell me the specs for extruded aluminum that would allow me to attach the "arm" that flips down onto an MFT and sets the track saw at exactly 90 degrees?  Thank you!
 
Sedge showed a MFT-like top attached to the extension arms on the STM-1800.  I think he actually mounted the clip-on pieces to the MFT top and then clipped it into place.

For the hinge, if you're starting from scratch, you probably can't go wrong with some basic 8020 extrusions and then an 8020-compatible Dashboard Rail Hinge and support.

Getting it square in the first place would likely be the biggest issue, honestly.
 
Yes to the above regarding Sedge's Festool Live productions about the STM 1800 and how to add an MFT top to it. I just finished today doing what he recommended - buying the supports and an extra top and attaching them to an end. Worked great and easily taken off and on.
 
I'll mention my post to this forum: https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/new-mft-rail-hinge-and-fence-mk-2/

This is a how to make a track hinge comparable with the best aftermarket hinges. However, no one has responded to it, so perhaps it has little worth ?  There is also a fence there, made from 6020 extrusion, which makes it comparable with all the Benchdog accessories.

With regard to drilling holes, you basically have two choices: the UFK Parf Guide system, or the Trend Template. I went the latter, although mine was a CNC-made version. Routing once (by template) is much quicker than drilling every hole twice (with a guide).
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered Tools and Machinery/BuildingMFT1.html

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Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Question for the group here, does anyone see an issue with clamping a Bora MFT top to the table and using a portable drill press with a 20mm bit?

Obviously you could only use one half of the Bora top at a time due to the handle disrupting the 96mm pattern, but should get a pretty good result? Especially if you use some long dogs to help position the top to drill your incremental holes.
 
Just that it would be pretty hard to move the dp finely enough to not inadvertently ream the existing holes off center. And there has to be zero runout at the business end of the bit.

Most people get the best results by drilling a pilot hole by hand that is big enough to get a top bearing pattern into position to finish the hole.
 
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