DIY MFT using sawhorse legs, which extrusion

sanjay

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I have been lurking on the forum for some time now and lots of great posts on DIY MFTs.

I plan to make a diy MFT using the toughbuilt C700 as the legs, and building a temporary frame using 2x4s.  i will use this as the base of an MFT.

The MFT i would like to make will be around 2000mm (6.5') by 800mm (2.5').  I think, I would like to build the separate "lift-off" MFT top with an aluminium frame, but in the future use the rail hinge system.  i had a couple of questions that i seem to been getting more confused about and wandering if anyone could help?

1) is there any aluminum extrusion that would support installing the rail hinge system? (i looked at the festool 496824 but this is too expensive for 2m).  I have seen examples of sides being made with a combination of wood and aluminium but would rather just use aluminium as a frame / sides

2) has anyone seen any examples of lift of MFTs using an aluminium frame that didnt need too much modifying to the aluminium?

3) should i just not bother with the aluminium, keep it simple and use the 2x4 frame as the support instead?

 
thanks for your help everyone!

there will be dog holes on the top.

The tracktubes look awesome but they do not have tracks on the horizontal sides, which means i dont think i will be able to use the festool hinge bracket??

If i were to use 2 of the 8020, will the festool hinge bracket work?

Part numbers 497023 , 497022.

If i use the 8020 as long brakets, i think i will need to mount the MFT top within the space, and slightly raised by a few mm from the 8020 (maybe using little L brackets), rather then sitting on -top?
 
I would really listen to [member=75093]dashboardpws[/member] and use his track guide brackets.  I recently built a MFT tablesaw outfeed table that used the aluminum extrusion from 8020 posted above.  I used the 1.5" x 4.5" version which has 3 slots and the Dashboard guide rail brackets slide right in.  The 4.5" isn't necessary but I just wanted to use something really beefy, the 3" version would work fine.

I built a torsion box style top with the aluminum extrusion mounted on the long rails, a place to install the guide rail brackets.  Then I used the Parf Mark II hole drilling jig to get my 20mm dog holes.  With Dashboard's guide rail bracket and his included triangle delrin setup blocks I get dead nuts accurate crosscuts.  So accurate that I used the 5 cut method to check and across a 28" crosscut I had 0.002" discrepancy on my off-cut.  If you divide this by 4 it's 0.0005" off of square across 28".  I can't express in words how accurate that is and how happy I am with Dashboard's guide rail brackets.  The only part of that Dashboard set I am slightly bummed about is the delrin dogs that came with the set.  My dogs came in at 19.81mm which are far too loose in my 20mm holes.  I luckily have the TSO tight fit dogs that I used to position the guide rail using the dashboard triangles.  I should probably mentioned this to Dashboard but haven't got around to it.  Having said this Dashboard's guide rail bracket is bar none the BEST bracket on the market.  I don't own Festool's but have used it and is not even in the same league. The precision, fit and finish, and simplicity is just amazing.
 
I'm down this rabbit hole atm...If in the US just order dashboard and/or tracktubes and forget about it.

Import into the UK is slightly expensive (or not possible with tracktubes) so I am trying to bodge the festool hinge with another alu profile.

For future reference, I am looking at 8020 45 profile, might just work out but looks super tight.
https://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?pretty;board=festool-jigs-tool-enhancements;topic=mft3-profile-image-and-measurements.0&action=dlattach&attach=221414&image=
201022_tz.png
 
thebodger said:
I'm down this rabbit hole atm...If in the US just order dashboard and/or tracktubes and forget about it.

Import into the UK is slightly expensive (or not possible with tracktubes) so I am trying to bodge the festool hinge with another alu profile.

For future reference, I am looking at 8020 45 profile, might just work out but looks super tight.
https://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?pretty;board=festool-jigs-tool-enhancements;topic=mft3-profile-image-and-measurements.0&action=dlattach&attach=221414&image=
201022_tz.png

Any reason why you are not going with the 15 series profile which lots of people seem to use?
 
[member=75875]thebodger[/member] They make that profile in a double so 4590.

you may be easier to source Bosch Roxroth extrusions in the UK

Ron
 
This is the festool hinge side on, that bottom T looks much more square than the regular T-slots.

View attachment 1

Just realised the 45 profile will not fit into the saw horse as a 4x2 replacement  [blink]

 

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Our brackets are designed to fit virtually all t tracks and t slot extrusions. For the latter I do recommend choosing a taller profile such as at least 1530 but 1030 can work if you position your work surface correctly.
 
dashboardpws said:
Our brackets are designed to fit virtually all t tracks and t slot extrusions. For the latter I do recommend choosing a taller profile such as at least 1530 but 1030 can work if you position your work surface correctly.

Thanks for your help.  I am based in the UK and already own the hinge bracket from festool.  Purchasing a brand new version from the USA into the UK is cost prohibative. 

Does the 15 series 8020 allow one of use the festool brackets?
 
sanjay said:
Does the 15 series 8020 allow one of use the festool brackets?

Can't say definitively, but I'm guessing not. I am not aware of a standard extrusion that the Festool brackets work with.

I don't have an MFT but I bought the Festool brackets and made a custom profile for it with wood and aluminum bar stock. The design was from GuysWoodshop.

He has a YouTube video and FOG thread on it here.

Here's some pics of mine:

IMG_0709.jpg


IMG_0715.jpg


IMG_1255.jpg


I used 1/8" thick bar aluminum but it was a very tight fit. Maybe next time I'd go 1/16". Here are the dimensions for the wood rail (Guy's design):

Rail-Profile.jpg


All of this is works if you're determined to use the Festool brackets you already have. Totally understand, cost-wise. I did the same, to save a bit of money. But I will say, even though it might not make sense in your situation, sometimes I wish I had just went for the Dashboard! I ordered Rob's "slop stop", and he has awesome communication and great products. After using the Festool brackets I can tell just by looking at the Dashboard ones that they are superior in every way.

Anyways, hope this gives you some ideas!

 
thebodger said:
This is the festool hinge side on, that bottom T looks much more square than the regular T-slots.

View attachment 1

Just realised the 45 profile will not fit into the saw horse as a 4x2 replacement  [blink]

[member=75875]thebodger[/member] and [member=75841]sanjay[/member] what dod you guys end up doing?
I frustratingly bought some standard t-track fully expecting it to work with that. I was thinking yesterday and decided on making my own, Festool-fitting T-track using rectangular profile aluminium and cutting a thin strip out but this would need to be dead precise I feel
 
[member=76606]Snowy48[/member] just one post above yours I posted the dimensions needed for a DIY "T-Track" to fit the Festool brackets. I used 1/8" bar aluminum over a wood (maple) recess, and it's a tight fit.

If I could do it over I'd get the dashboard brackets and use a regular T-Track instead.
 
I used 3030 and it was very reasonably priced and seems very strong to me. I sized it to match the height of my sawstop. I made 2 boxes basically. The base is 46 by 46 by 21 high, the top is 57 x 49 by 5 with 3/4 mdf on top and bottom. lots of drawer space!
 
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