Do I keep the MFK 700?

[tiralie]

I don't have an OF-1010 to compare the MFK-700 to.  I'm dead certain I'd like the 1010 especially when you use the accessories to put it on its side much like the 700 with the horizontal base.

I am not a big fan of the 1010 on it's side to trim with and I have the above mentioned attachments. Just way too awkward.
The MFK-700 is much easier to handle but really it is a HD laminate trimmer which it excels at.
If you are just trimming light .04-06 mm/ .018" edging, a sharp box knife and a sanding block works faster.
Tim

 

[canadamike]

They do fit the OF1400, but it's too unwieldy.  Plus the chip deflector won't fit the OF1400, so you get showered in chips and dust.  On the OF1010 they work a treat. They can be removed an refitted without having to re calibrate them. The results are superb.

Andrew

I posted too soon.... Again.
They're for the 1010/1400
Even though the 1400 is large I'll probably get a set.   I have everything else.

Back to the MFK 700....  Has anyone else, besides Venerable Paul, taken a fret saw to the 700 plate?

I have the 700 and made the modification as per Paul's example. Now I can use longer spiral bits that give an awesome finish when trimming wider edge banding. It also opens up the use of other larger router bits. It look only a few minutes to do this, and, if you play with the large black adjustment knob, you'll find that the router base can be taken apart, making the modification easier. And yes I know it voids the warranty...

 

[iamnothim]

Playing catch-up on this thread....

I don't have an OF-1010 to compare the MFK-700 to.  I'm dead certain I'd like the 1010 especially when you use the accessories to put it on its side much like the 700 with the horizontal base.

I got the 700 on a decent eBay score.  I use it a lot for flushing on a project or simple edge treatments.  Certain the 1010 would do those as well.  With the hose on the 700, it is literally dust free, which I like.

Using the 700 on the guide rail is a bit hokey, but it works.  In a pinch, two 5x30 Dominos double-stick taped to the bottom of the 700 with the other edge on the guide rail works just fine.  I've since made a skate out of scrap and a T-bolt.  Then I hid it somewhere so nobody would take it and I can't remember where

The comment about the table widener on the 1400 and guide rail use... with the table widener, you use the router flat on the work surface and put the router on the -outside- of the guiderail (side without the rubber strip).  The nice part is it sits flat on the table and can be guided without the use of the foot, which I find awkward.  That's really the only time I use the table widener because: a] the 1400 won't fit in the Systainer with the widened base attached and, b] I always use the guide rods and one of the guide stops to make an outboard handle nearly 12" away from the router when I want to add stability (like edge trimming/profiling)... it is ridiculously better than the table widener and I think the guide stops are a required accessory anyway.

Please clarify the Table Widener for me.

You use it outside the rail but without the rods?
It seemed like first you liked it then it's ridiculously easier w/o out it.

I ride on the short bus [smile]

 

[iamnothim]

They do fit the OF1400, but it's too unwieldy.  Plus the chip deflector won't fit the OF1400, so you get showered in chips and dust.  On the OF1010 they work a treat. They can be removed an refitted without having to re calibrate them. The results are superb.

Andrew

I posted too soon.... Again.
They're for the 1010/1400
Even though the 1400 is large I'll probably get a set.   I have everything else.

Back to the MFK 700....  Has anyone else, besides Venerable Paul, taken a fret saw to the 700 plate?

I have the 700 and made the modification as per Paul's example. Now I can use longer spiral bits that give an awesome finish when trimming wider edge banding. It also opens up the use of other larger router bits. It look only a few minutes to do this, and, if you play with the large black adjustment knob, you'll find that the router base can be taken apart, making the modification easier. And yes I know it voids the warranty...

That's what I'm looking for.
I want a badaz trim router for my veneer projects but I need it to do more.....
I think I'm getting close to keeping it and making the PMStO mod.

 

[polarsea1]

I had an MFK 700 but sold it because of the edgebanding depth limitation so I switched to a 1010 with right angle bracket and edging plate. Since reading about Paul Marcel's modification for the MFK I've bought a new MFK. I use it mostly with 3mm banding and in my opinion it is much easier to set up and use for that purpose than the 1010.

 

[iamnothim]

I had an MFK 700 but sold it because of the edgebanding depth limitation so I switched to a 1010 with right angle bracket and edging plate. Since reading about Paul Marcel's modification for the MFK I've bought a new MFK. I use it mostly with 3mm banding and in my opinion it is much easier to set up and use for that purpose than the 1010.

Way cool.....
I was in the process of trying to stop typing and start making sawdust.  Then I payed with the 700 with the little Blum drawer CAM Sliders and the OF1400 rail slides/glides.
It slides like butter !  I can't wait to try a spiral bit on some rough lumber.  My garage is fresh out of Joiners.

 

[tjbnwi]

Remember it is not a plunge router (stock). You need to learn the plunge process on the rail. A technique only you can find comfortable.

I have a 1010 with the edging guide also, at times I have them both set up, depends on what I'm doing at the time.

Again the 700 is my favorite router, I use it a lot to plane extension jambs to a wall.

Tom

 

[PaulMarcel]

Please clarify the Table Widener for me.

You use it outside the rail but without the rods?
It seemed like first you liked it then it's ridiculously easier w/o out it.

I ride on the short bus [smile]

I only use it when using the router on the guide rail. Using a guide stop and guide rails makes a better "wide base" for me than the table widener.  But when running the router along  a guide rail, the table widener is much better and eliminates the foot, too.

When running it along a guide rail, you have the router on the side without the rubber strip because the table widener base is thicker by 5mm-ish, which is what the foot compensates for.  You still use the guide stop on the rail rib and you still use the guide rods.  I typed that you don't use the foot, not the rods.

 

[iamnothim]

Please clarify the Table Widener for me.

You use it outside the rail but without the rods?
It seemed like first you liked it then it's ridiculously easier w/o out it.

I ride on the short bus [smile]

I only use it when using the router on the guide rail. Using a guide stop and guide rails makes a better "wide base" for me than the table widener.  But when running the router along  a guide rail, the table widener is much better and eliminates the foot, too.

When running it along a guide rail, you have the router on the side without the rubber strip because the table widener base is thicker by 5mm-ish, which is what the foot compensates for.  You still use the guide stop on the rail rib and you still use the guide rods.  I typed that you don't use the foot, not the rods.

Thanks Paul....
While putting stuff away I tried the Blum CAMs on the standard OF-1400 base plate.
Again 4mm.

I took calipers to the CAMs and the Table Widener.
CAMs  10.04mm
Table Widener 10.39

The CAMs are not dead-on level like the MFK-700 was but very close.
I'll need to make a pass and take a square to the edge.

A lot less screws to change out as only two fasteners are needed.  If you permanently affix the screw to the CAM they will spin on/off.

 

[PaulMarcel]

There are two threaded holes under the standard base. Can't recall their exact position, but they would be far enough way.  Your cams rethreaded for those hole would be perfect... but you already made holes I think

 

[iamnothim]

There are two threaded holes under the standard base. Can't recall their exact position, but they would be far enough way.  Your cams rethreaded for those hole would be perfect... but you already made holes I think

I just remove 2 screws from the plate, 4mm, and attached them to the same holes using a longer 4mm screw.
The Blum CAMs have a little thread and a half 4mm hole so the snug up nicely.

I'm keeping the 700.  [smile]

Thanks to everyone for their input.

 

[Sparktrician]

I really like the MFK 700 for laminate work and edge banding trimming. 

 

[iamnothim]

I just used the MFK 700 on a rail with the OF-1400 rods and rail guide.  I affixed the Blum CAMs to the faceplate and, using a Whiteside spiral down cut bit took 2.5mm off the edge of 3/4' Ply.

I made 3 passes and it worked great....except..... dust collection is not-so-good.  You can't use the CAMs with the plate mounted chip collector.

 

[tjbnwi]

I just used the MFK 700 on a rail with the OF-1400 rods and rail guide.  I affixed the Blum CAMs to the faceplate and, using a Whiteside spiral down cut bit took 2.5mm off the edge of 3/4' Ply.

I made 3 passes and it worked great....except..... dust collection is not-so-good.  You can't use the CAMs with the plate mounted chip collector.

Just another hurdle to over come.

Tom

 

[BMH]

I have the 1400, 1010 and the 700. They have their perfect zone of work. The 700 is the hardest one to get comfortable with due to all of the different configurations possible, but once you use enough you realize it is a great machine. The new base that just came out will facilitate edge banding trimming. Had the opportunity to see it in action and it rocks.

I would also recommend you look at http://www.jerrywork.com/ tutorial on the use of the 700 he gives some good tips also. I read that article quite a few times and every time I discovered something new.

Bruce

 

[iamnothim]

I have the 1400, 1010 and the 700. They have their perfect zone of work. The 700 is the hardest one to get comfortable with due to all of the different configurations possible, but once you use enough you realize it is a great machine. The new base that just came out will facilitate edge banding trimming. Had the opportunity to see it in action and it rocks.

I would also recommend you look at http://www.jerrywork.com/ tutorial on the use of the 700 he gives some good tips also. I read that article quite a few times and every time I discovered something new.

Bruce

Thanks Bruce,

I downloaded several of Jerry's documents

 

[Peter Durand]

I’ve had my MFK 700 for a few weeks now and just can’t seem to find a lot of use for it.  It's a darn fine trim router for a production cabinet shop.
Prior to it’s arrival,  I used a Bosch Colt for my veneer projects.  The MFK 700 is much more stable than the Colt and the vertical base looks nice but I haven't used it yet.  I think it will be superior trimming veneer.  But the way it is now I can do more with the Colt.

The bit limitation is frustrating and the guide rail thing is annoying as well.  The 700 would be much more nimble on a guide rail than my OF-1400 yet using it is a Kludge!  Why?  Come to think of it the guide rail with the 1400 is frustrating if you want to clean up an edge since you can’t use the little foot.  I have the table widener but it doesn’t help much on the rail.  Maybe I’m using it wrong.  Back to the MFK 700.

I’ve read Paul Marcel’s blog on modifying the 700 to take larger bits and using it on the guide rail.  I’m looking for advice before making these mods.  Has anyone made them?

I’m on the fence as to returning it before the 30 days are up and getting either a Carvex or an RO90.  Comments?

All-the-best

Luke

I did Paul-Marcel's mod and it transformed the tool for me. Like you, if I had not done that I would have returned it. A lot of my work has edging that is quite wide and I needed that mod to accommodate it. Coupled with the down spiral bit I have been a happy camper.

Recommended.

Cheers,

Peter

 

[plouf]

Hi Tom,

I use it a lot to plane extension jambs to a wall.

Could you please elaborate a bit on that one, may be interesting enough!

regards,

plouf

 

[LZ]

I made PM modification with a "twist".  Lee Valley has 8 mm bits. One of them (not spiral) will trim 19 mm of edgebanding. It does require modification of the base or it will not fit MFK 700. There is a way to take Festool base apart. You have to remove the black locking knob, turn green adjustment knob all the way up. At that point  turn it back down about 1 turn and gently twist the base on the shaft back and forth. When you will be able to turn the base on the shaft 360 deg, start turning the green knob again all the way up. That way you can separate two parts of the base and use hacksaw and file to make the mod. I ended buying a spare part of the base and modified it. Lee Valley 19 mm bit works fine.

 

[RMDavis]

I have the 1400, 1010 and the 700. They have their perfect zone of work. The 700 is the hardest one to get comfortable with due to all of the different configurations possible, but once you use enough you realize it is a great machine. The new base that just came out will facilitate edge banding trimming. Had the opportunity to see it in action and it rocks.

I would also recommend you look at http://www.jerrywork.com/ tutorial on the use of the 700 he gives some good tips also. I read that article quite a few times and every time I discovered something new.

Bruce

New base?  I don't see anything new on the Festool site...

Ross