Do I need a planar?

[Steve1]

Jointer first...a planer will create a parallel face to an existing flat surface.  The jointer creates a flat surface where there was none before.

Not necessarily. 
You can joint on a planer (except for making an exactly perpendicular edge), by putting the board on a sled and shimming the high spots.  I typically use a few dabs of Bondo, or sometimes painters tape if bow is small, others use wedges, hot melt, or probably countless other methods.
I have a jointer, but often, this is my preferred method for long boards, or if my board is already getting a bit thin and I want to just take off the minimum possible, or if the board is wider than my jointer.

 

[Cheese]

Interesting. Why the two-step drilling process, Cheese? Did the Forstner bit skate?

The max Forstner depth was about 2-1/2" so I knew I needed to drill the holes from both sides of the timber. I used my go-to 3/16" x 6" long drill bit to penetrate both sides and mark locational positions. When I started using the Forstner bit, I noticed it got really hot and it started to melt the plastic so I slowed down the rpm. That eliminated the melting issue but it became very slow going and the bit was still pretty hot and I worried about possibly annealing the Forstner bit.

My solution was to core out the centers of the holes with a hole saw and use the Forstner to clean up the holes and bring them to the proper diameter. Worked well for maintaining tolerances so that the timbers could be easily stacked without making the thru holes too large.

The 1" pipe measures 1.06" and the Forstner bit is 1.25" so there's not a lot of room to move. Here's a photo of the cap rail with counterbored holes that receives the 1" pipe. As you can see, everything lines up at a distance or 4'.  [cool]

[attachimg=1]

 

[jeffinsgf]

Interesting. Why the two-step drilling process, Cheese? Did the Forstner bit skate?

The max Forstner depth was about 2-1/2" so I knew I needed to drill the holes from both sides of the timber. I used my go-to 3/16" x 6" long drill bit to penetrate both sides and mark locational positions. When I started using the Forstner bit, I noticed it got really hot and it started to melt the plastic so I slowed down the rpm. That eliminated the melting issue but it became very slow going and the bit was still pretty hot and I worried about possibly annealing the Forstner bit.

My solution was to core out the centers of the holes with a hole saw and use the Forstner to clean up the holes and bring them to the proper diameter. Worked well for maintaining tolerances so that the timbers could be easily stacked without making the thru holes too large.

The 1" pipe measures 1.06" and the Forstner bit is 1.25" so there's not a lot of room to move. Here's a photo of the cap rail with counterbored holes that receives the 1" pipe. As you can see, everything lines up at a distance or 4'.  [cool]

[attachimg=1]

 

[sancho57]

to answer the OPs question, the 850 though it will work is not ideal for that application. For that application it would work great for edge jointing but though the face planing can be done with it, it will take a lot of time. I recommend (if you dont have a friend who has a surface planer to use a rotex or a belt sander once the sides have been assembled