Does anyone live near the coastline, rust issues ?

[Brent Taylor]

Does anyone live near the coastline and what do you use to keep rust at bay? I have lost some of my tooling to rust, one older router and a couple of hand tools and router bits. Do you use sprays or silica packets or what. I come from the Great Lakes area and now live on the Gulf of Mexico. Thanks in advance, B

 

[gippy]

I live in Bangkok where the humidity eats anything metal not protected. I spray everything with a light coat of camellia oil at the end of the day and wipe it off before using again. It works well for me. I tried large silica packets inside a tool cabinet but unless you are keeping things in an airtight box they only last a week or so.

 

[Kev]

Popular topic of late ....

read this:

http://www.carbatec.com.au/Protecting-Your-Assets

 

[rmwarren]

Island on the Jersey shore & Boy Howdy, do I get rust. Mostly surface rust due to condensation, it is a never ending problem. I have  not come across any single solution.

For some Starrett tools I purchased corrosion prevention paper and wrap the tools when they are in storage. For my bench tools/cast iron I use Boeshield Rust Free to clean them and T-9 to keep them from rusting again, this has been working great.

I recently started hitting my router collet nuts and stainless posts with the T-9, but I'm careful with the Rust Free as it tends to discolor metal. I used it to clean my chisels and they ended up looking kinda milky. I applied the T-9, let it sit for a day or so and then remove the excess. So far the rust has not returned to the chisels.

Good luck and welcome to the battle.

RMW 

 

[rljatl]

Believe it or not, this works great for large cast iron surfaces.  Keeps oxygen from getting to the cast iron. Nothing to wipe off or reapply.  Easy to cut with scissors.  Not so good for dry erase markers.

ToolMAG 24" X 36" Dry Erase Magnetic Surface Protector

 

[ear3]

The article you linked to mentioned G15 Corrosion Inhibitor, which I wasn't familiar with.  How does that compare to Boeshield T-9?

 

[Kev]

The article you linked to mentioned G15 Corrosion Inhibitor, which I wasn't familiar with.  How does that compare to Boeshield T-9?

G15 is more purpose specific ... long term rust prevention. Boeshield T-9 (to my understanding) is a multipurpose inhibitor, lube, etc.

If you want a can of useful "stuff", Boeshield T-9 would fit the bill. G15 is all about just preventing rust.

 

[dframe]

Brand newbie, first post.  Does anyone know if G15 (mentioned above) is safe for the electrical innards of tools?  I had a brief discussion with Festool support RE corrosion prevention, and they didn't have a lot to say other than avoiding moisture and perhaps a hermetically sealed containers.  I asked about Boeshield, which was concerning to the guy I was "speaking" with as to it's effects on brushes and armatures.  I sort of expected more specific recommendations from the crafty engineers at Festool.

For the time being I purchased a VCI (Vapor Corrosion Inhibitor) bag that would fit a bike, which ought to be OK for the Kapex.  I can haul the rest inside and just paint the trim to match Festool green, I guess. 

 

[Brent Taylor]

Welcome drame. In my case, most of the electrical and electronic components that are non replaceable are incapacitated,  so I haven't had any problems with the amount of over spray of rust inhibitors that I have used over the years,  and I'm talking about 40 of them. I have used electronic and electric cleaning and dressing sprays,  mostly on my Impulse guns and repair/maintenance work on my tools ( all brands of them ). When it comes to maintaining the inner workings of my tools,  I use a brush and either a vac or compressed air to remove solid ( drywall dust, wood dust and the like) and liquid ( rain, urine and mud ) and if there is any grease that is in need of replacing I doe so with the recommended product.  Hope it helps answer your questions.
I also have found a way to help with the rust problems,  I moved an hour inland,  seems to work great on the tools.  Still get a bit of the rain,  but less of the salt, of course with a tropical storm coming in this weekend we will see.

 

[Roseland]

I live about 300 metres from the sea in Cornwall, UK.  Regular stainless steel, such as 314, on door furniture corrodes over time with the airborne salt.

On my tools I use Camellia Oil, from Axminster:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/camellia-oil-pump-spray-bottle-510018

It seems to work well enough.

Andrew

 

[bdiemer]

Camellia oil is the real deal and it works great. For my hand planes only I've switched to jojoba oil , because it is actually a wax and puts a nice glide on their bottoms. Thanks for the post. it reminds me I need more camellia. Speaking only for hand tools only.                          Barry

 

[AlexThePalex]

Does anyone know if G15 (mentioned above) is safe for the electrical innards of tools?

Nothing is safe for the electric innards. Avoid any contamination at all costs. Use rust prevention only on metal parts outside the casing, as well as lubricants.

 

[leakyroof]

I live about 300 metres from the sea in Cornwall, UK.  Regular stainless steel, such as 314, on door furniture corrodes over time with the airborne salt.

On my tools I use Camellia Oil, from Axminster:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/camellia-oil-pump-spray-bottle-510018

It seems to work well enough.

Andrew

. Yes, T316 Stainless is the preferred version near Oceans/Salt Water. 304 just won't cut it.

 

[Cheese]

I live about 300 metres from the sea in Cornwall, UK.  Regular stainless steel, such as 314, on door furniture corrodes over time with the airborne salt.

The 302, 303 & 304 grades of stainless are all members of the general 18/8 stainless steel family. They are all suitable for outdoor exposure and will function extremely well in most cases, until they are introduced to salt exposure. In an oceanside environment, only a 316/316L stainless, or equivalent, will be suitable for exposure to the elements. 316 is considered to be a marine grade stainless because it contains less iron and more nickel than the 18/8 variants. However, it is the molybdenum blended in that really makes a difference. The nice thing is that there is only a 10-20% premium for 316 fasteners vs 304 fasteners for a 3-4 times improvement in corrosion/rust resistance.

 

[Roseland]

I agree entirely about the stainless steel grades.

But buying door furniture - letterboxes, door pulls etc - in 316 is pretty much impossible.

Andrew

 

[dodong]

living on the Philippine coast with its high humidity has its own peculiarities rustwise.

i put vci tabs inside of my systainers and change them 6 monthly.
tools that get only used sporadically get stored inside a vci bag on top of that.

seems to keep the rust at bay.

(before the vci tabs it was a nightmare - domino and of1400 guides would flashrust overnight... - now a light oiling every once so often and no more issues)

 

[leakyroof]

I agree entirely about the stainless steel grades.

But buying door furniture - letterboxes, door pulls etc - in 316 is pretty much impossible.

Andrew

. Also totally true. Unless you're spec'ing something custom from a Sheetmetal Fabricator, T 316 isn't on a showroom floor...

 

[clark_fork]

A bump to ask three questions:

I am soon to take possession of a Bench Dog cast iron router table top. I have always relied on Johnson's Paste Wax which is still available. With so much surface, however, I expect I will need an anti-rust product.

What's best for cleaning off the shipping grease applied to cast iron table tops?

Anyone using Frog Lube paste instead of Boeshield-T-9

Anyone using paste wax over a anti-rust product to improve surface slide?

Thanks

 

[kevinculle]

There is a fairly wide variety of 316 SS cabinet hardware made for the marine market...not cheap but it is out there.

 

[Vondawg]

Clark- have you looked at the covers zerust sells they have one for a table saw and other rust preventative products.

Zerustproducts.com