Domino 500 Base Scratches

iamnothim

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Feb 5, 2014
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Hi,

The base plate on my domino 500 is scratched to the point that I can no longer see the index line.  This is a problem mostly when using my Seneca Plate Accessory.  Which is most of the time I use the Domino.  I've got bad eyes and I'm starting to guess where the lines are.

I have 4-5 old Stanley bench planes that I sent out to be resurfaced a couple of years ago and they came out spectacular.  I'll probably  go that route but I want to check with you all for suggestions  first.  I have no idea where I sent the planes so I'll be starting from scratch.  If anyone has had this done let me know the service you used.

Thanks a bunch

Luke
 
If you machine that base, the lines may become harder to read because they are so shallow. 

I'm just spitballing here, but can you run a black permanent marker down the length of the line and lightly scuff the base with steel wool so only the ink inside the groove remains?  If that works, you could leave it as-is and see how long it holds up or try paint and fine sandpaper for the next go round.
 
That’s a tough one.  [sad] That sole plate is a stainless insert that has very shallow markings. I re-scribed my center marking using a small diameter carbide scribe that was very sharp. However there are still issues with that because you need to put some pressure on the scribe to mark the stainless, but applying too much force makes the scribe want to skate across the surface and out of the marking.

That sole plate appears to be replaceable and maybe a call to Festool may be the answer.

If you opt for a new sole plate, make sure you put some thin vinyl film on the Seneca plate to prevent it from damaging your new sole plate.

If you call Festool, I’d be interested in what they have to say.
 
First, I would not regrind the baseplate because the centre of the cutter is 10mm from the bottom, and that would change after your regrinding, possibly and slightly affecting the use of the intersecting lines techniques (and, to a much lesser extent, mortising shelves). If the grinding is not done properly (flat across), additional issues may arise.

If replacing the plate is pricey, I would try scribing aided by a square or straightedge held/clamped. I darkened part of the centre line with Bic Marking Ultra Fine point (Walmart).
 
ChuckM said:
First, I would not regrind the baseplate because the centre of the cutter is 10mm from the bottom, and that would change after your regrinding, possibly and slightly affecting the use of the intersecting lines techniques (and, to a much lesser extent, mortising shelves). If the grinding is not done properly (flat across), additional issues may arise.

If replacing the plate is pricey, I would try scribing aided by a square or straightedge held/clamped. I darkened part of the centre line with Bic Marking Ultra Fine point (Walmart).
Hey Chuck
Good idea. Thanks
If I do anything I will have someone else do it. Couple years back I developed “essential tremors “needless to say I won’t be scribing anything  Oh Well.  Maybe if it was a large sharpie 
 

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I have used a fine point sharpe to darken all of the scribed lines on my Domino XL.  I assume the same thing would work for the 500.  It makes them much easier for me to see them.

Bob
 
I have not yet needed to enhance my Domino’s base plate markings.

If I need to do so, I’d start with one of the side markings, not the center line.

I’d run a felt tip marker down the line knowing I’d get some of the ink outside the line I wanted to highlight. I’d then rub lightly over the area with a rag dampened in alcohol trying to avoid the etched line. I find alcohol removes freshly applied Magic Marker ink. My goal is to leave only the ink that is inside the etched line.

If you have lots of scratches in your base plate, this technique could highlight those as well as the line you want to highlight.
 
I have also used a Sharpie Ultra Fine (0.3mm) black pen to darken the scribe lines.  For a straight edge I handheld a safety blade and aligned the sharp side of the safety blade with the line I was scribing.  Because the blade is so thin, it really helped me see the line and I could get the pen right on top of the line.  I feel it worked perfectly.
 
When I need to mark something with a Magic Marker, I mask off the line with Scotch Tape on both sides leaving only the narrow space where I want the mark to be.

I peel off the tape and only the line is left. If I screw up, alcohol takes off the ink.
 
On the occasions when I need to use the intersecting lines technique to mortise and to align the lines with precision, I shine a light towards the scribed line on the baseplate.
 
You could mask either side of the line, and use a triangular jewellers file, and make a few careful passes with that, until the line becomes more distinctive.

An eye, or magnifying glass would make the job easier too.
 
Not sure where everyone is based but here in Europe the part number for the (df500) base is FES10001284  and costs about £50/60€
 
The scratches are caused by usage, and unless there is a functional damage to the baseplate that affects precision, there is no need to replace it (and keep replacing it). I would spend such money on dominoes.
 
I also have a scratched baseplate and noticed the Festool operators manual calls the part a Baseplate, but the online parts diagram, part number 495829, calls it a Bearer and lists it for $163.80 USD. Jimslita posted in this thread the part number of FES10001284, but that is called a Base in the online parts diagram and is called a Fence in the operators manual. The fence/base is not what is being talked about in this thread. I've tried using a fine point sharpie to fill in the reference lines with unsatisfactory results so I'm going to call Festool service to see how difficult replacing the baseplate will be.
 
[member=81234]patriot2024[/member] -- were you able to clarify with Festool? I have the same issue. I would prefer just to polish the base, if I knew what to use.
 
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