Domino 500.....how much accuracy should i be expecting?

[Nick2cd]

I've had a domino for about a year now but really have only used it on one project.  i haven't had much shop time, as life has gotten in the way.  but that's neither here nor there.  anyways, i am finally using it on a project with some 3/4" melamine and one side lined up perfectly flush yet the other side was off.  when i say "off", im not talking about much (less than 1mm), yet it was still enough to discourage me a bit.  this project doesn't have to be perfect, as it's mostly function over form, but it's still bugging me to no end.  granted, the cut i was making was a somewhat difficult one due to the fact that i was plunging the tool without much support.  i feel like this is user error more than anything but i still wanted to post it up and see if you guys are getting better results than this of if this is what i should be expecting.  i think it's actually a bit worse than it looks in the picture.

approximately .5-1mm off

dead on

 

[peter halle]

You should be able to achieve better than that with some practice.  I always suggest that new domino owners get some scrap and play so that they can get comfortable.  Your joints will get better.

Peter

 

[Alan m]

you will easily get it better than that.
i think the problem here is that you changed the setting between pieces. or tried to center the cutter each time.
the setting is irelivent as long as it stays consistent.
the domiplate solvs all these problem because it is a set thickness and never moves.

 

[Sean7a]

As others suggested, practice makes perfect.

Cradle the power cord in the palm of your hand and push the back of the tool with your thumb when plunging.  Don't grab the barrel of the Domino itself.  This method will encourage you, or lend to, the tool being pivoted up or down.  Essentially you have too much leverage in that position and it's very easy to make an errant mortise.

Also, be sure that your left hand is straight, or slightly bent, and you are putting your full weight on that little black nub handle that's attached to the Domino's face frame.

 

[Nick2cd]

you will easily get it better than that.
i think the problem here is that you changed the setting between pieces. or tried to center the cutter each time.
the setting is irelivent as long as it stays consistent.
the domiplate solvs all these problem because it is a set thickness and never moves.

I never changed the setting from start to finish. I must have lifted during the plunge?

 

[rmwarren]

I agree with Sean and Alan. The domi-plate works better IMO than the stock fence for casework like this, and you have to develop a touch with the off hand holding the Domino steady with the other hand pushing it along the centerline of the cut, i.e. from the very rear of the Domino/at the power cord. After a bit of use the domi-plate feels very natural.

I also had the inclination to plunge too fast and aggressive, when I slowed down the results evened out.

RMW

 

[Nick2cd]

The more I analyze it, the more I think the error was made during the plunge into the face of the top piece. I don't think it happened when I was plunging into the edge of a board because I had plenty of support for the tool during that cut. I attached the auxiliary fence, which is designed to provide extra support in exactly this kind of cut, but it still wasn't enough to overcome my poor technique.  Practice makes perfect, I suppose.

 

[RONWEN]

you will easily get it better than that.
i think the problem here is that you changed the setting between pieces. or tried to center the cutter each time.
the setting is irelivent as long as it stays consistent.
the domiplate solvs all these problem because it is a set thickness and never moves.

I never changed the setting from start to finish. I must have lifted during the plunge?

Another "sometimes" issue is the fence drifting -- don't be afraid to really apply some pressure on the locking lever.  It's pretty tough & warranted.

 

[peter halle]

The more I analyze it, the more I think the error was made during the plunge into the face of the top piece. I don't think it happened when I was plunging into the edge of a board because I had plenty of support for the tool during that cut. I attached the auxiliary fence, which is designed to provide extra support in exactly this kind of cut, but it still wasn't enough to overcome my poor technique.  Practice makes perfect, I suppose.

One other thing to check is that the cut edge on that face board is cut at 90 degrees.  If that cut isn't 90 then because the fence is referencing off of the long edge of the cut it will move  the mortise one way or another.  That will happen with the Domiplate or the standard fence.  It isn't the fault of the devices, they are just referencing.  In one direction it will result in what you are showing in the top image, in the other direction it will have the piece extending past the other piece (imagine a cabinet side sitting proud of a face frame.)

I discovered this the hard way and then adjusted my TS-55.

Just another thought.

Peter

 

[fshanno]

Put a lot of force down on the handle.  I mean as much as your support setup will allow.  More than you think you should have to do.

Sometimes the thing is going to want to move up and down.  There's quite a bit of torque and even if you aren't feeling it in a macro way like with a drill it is still happening in a micro way.  

This will also help with the tendency for the mortise to not be parallel with the reference face.