Domino DF 500, what are your experiences?

[deepcreek]

The two biggest tips involve proper hold and plunge speed.

Initially, I had problems with both and was ready to return the tool until I called Festool and one of their product specialists talked me through it.

One hand needs to lock down the fence grip to hold the tool firmly in place (downward pressure only) while the other grasps at the very back of the body around the plug-it cord to plunge the cutter (forward pressure only).

As for plunge speed, you have to get a feel for it.  As I recall, too slow actually resulted in an slightly tilted mortise and too fast caused an undesirable result as well.

 

[semenza]

The Dominoes fit very precisely, no wiggle room like biscuits. So when positioning the tool you need to be  exact.  And put plenty of down force on the fence handle to make sure it doesn't move. Plunge slow,  steady, and be sure  you are pushing straight in with no up or down tilting of the tool body as you go.

Be sure the work piece is over hanging the edge of the bench so that you are certain to be registering from the fence not the tool bottom resting on the bench by mistake.

Seth

 

[sancho57]

what Seth said,
I had problems (operator error) not ensuring the fence was on the piece and remembering to use my hands/arms only for plunging the domino into the material not using the body

 

[sheeschen]

Oddly enough, the first thing I made with my domino went right together with no trouble - didn't even have to use the loose settings for mortise width.  Of course, it was a simple workshop cart made of 2x4s and precision didn't matter too much.

Once I started making nicer stuff with the domino, I thought I had a mis-calibrated tool - joints weren't perfectly flush like you see in everyone's videos.  I then clamped the heck out of my workpieces and domino so the only variable was how I pushed it in.  All of a sudden, perfect fit.  The domiplate also has helped a lot.  When I'm pushing the tool, I usually just have two fingers on either side of the power cord (that's from Festool class).  A lot less wiggle from the plunging hand affecting the cut.  Slowing down the plunge rate has also helped - I'll notice the machine jump a bit if I plunge too fast.  I've never had issues with real slow plunge rates, but maybe some slight fatigue in the fence hand/arm lead to issues.

I'm very pleased overall with the DF500.  I wish it were capable of deeper plunges, but that's what the DF700 is for (I'll come up with some project that requires it some day).

  Scott

 

[barnowl]

... When I'm pushing the tool, I usually just have two fingers on either side of the power cord (that's from Festool class).  A lot less wiggle from the plunging hand affecting the cut.  Slowing down the plunge rate has also helped - I'll notice the machine jump a bit if I plunge too fast.  I've never had issues with real slow plunge rates, but maybe some slight fatigue in the fence hand/arm lead to issues.
...
   Scott

Two fingers at the plug it like you said, but I go one step further...

Slow plunge about half way, pull back, and then slow plunge the rest of the way.

Always with form grip on the fence knob or Domiplate knob.

 

[Metisse]

Steve

The 500 is perfect for cabinet making and I would not be without it. I can cut and joint 20 - 30 domino joints in a fraction of the time it would take to do traditional motice and tenons and the accuracy is spot on. A lot of people use a variety of jigs that I consider unnecessary. Having calibrated the plastic guide, thanks to advice from this forum, I just use a pencil mark. Dead accurate, quick, cheap, works every time and is how it was designed to be used!

The 700 seems more for joinery work and is a pretty hefty machine in comparison. Try them both at the dealers and see which would suit you best.

You MUST have good, efficient dust extraction. Anything less will cause issues because the waste is not being cleared quickly enough. I now use a Festool Midi extractor and the auto power facility is a real advantage.

The one issue I have had is with the fence height adjuster clamp. This pulled the fence slightly out of parallel and meant the two connecting pieces were very slightly twisted. Although this can be cleaned up with a hand plane it can leave an underlying problem, with the finished component in 'wind' or twisted.

Before you buy any Domino take an adjustable metal engineer's sliding T square with you (http://www.moore-and-wright.com/products/show/4772?lang=English). Make sure that when the fence is down and clamped the distance from the baseplate to the fence is EXACTLY the same on each side of the machine. Any variance, mine was only 0.5mm 1/64", will cause you problems, believe me.

Don't be afraid to go through the entire shop stock, find one that is perfect and buy it, you wont regret it.

Peter

 

[jacko9]

I've had my DF500 for about five years now and I love this tool, I use it very often.  Last year I also purchased the XL 700 for cutting larger M & T joints and even though I was hesitant because of the additional weight of that machine, after using it I find the balance to be perfect.

My son has inherited my Lamello Top 10 biscuit joiner since it was just gathering dust in my shop.

Jack

 

[Paul G]

I've had my DF500 for about five years now and I love this tool, I use it very often.  Last year I also purchased the XL 700 for cutting larger M & T joints and even though I was hesitant because of the additional weight of that machine, after using it I find the balance to be perfect.

My son has inherited my Lamello Top 10 biscuit joiner since it was just gathering dust in my shop.

Jack

Curious how would you feel using the XL for smaller work if you didn't have the 500?

 

[ridgenj]

Paul, it might feel  like using a rocket propeller to go deer hunting. It works but....

I use several adapters from third parties  for my DF500 but I would be concern about doing modifications of a XL.
Only time will tell who is right.... But fear factor is a good way to keep status quo.

I have a brand new DD that I have not used it  yet because of the discussions in this forum and I don't really care about the warranty. I care about my own safety and I respect electrical power too much.

When I needed a DF 500, I bought one by breaking the bank. When I need a XL, will do the same.

Just a personal preference that I am not trying to impose to anyone. I alway like to evaluate risk/benefit and if it will pay off not being able to work as a consequence of an accident. Cutting corners can be expensive and I am not implying that anything been offered here 
is dangerous. I am very thankful  to those making available their inventions available to us.

 

[jacko9]

I've had my DF500 for about five years now and I love this tool, I use it very often.  Last year I also purchased the XL 700 for cutting larger M & T joints and even though I was hesitant because of the additional weight of that machine, after using it I find the balance to be perfect.

My son has inherited my Lamello Top 10 biscuit joiner since it was just gathering dust in my shop.

Jack

Curious how would you feel using the XL for smaller work if you didn't have the 500?

The only hesitation I would have would be using the XL for the 4mm size tenon.  I use the 4mm size for drawer blades in smaller cabinets and I think the XL might be a bit heavy for these delicate cuts.

Otherwise, the XL is a great machine for all around work.

Jack

 

[Stephen B]

Thank you all for your help and advice, particularly the additional hints on getting through the 'learning curve'.

Will be visiting my Festool Dealer, who is 150kms away,  in about a month for a demo of both machines. Stay tuned for the big reveal! My dealer has Internet sales, but given some of your comments I feel a demo and check of my unit  is required.

Again my appreciation to all who responded.

 

[jacko9]

Thank you all for your help and advice, particularly the additional hints on getting through the 'learning curve'.

Will be visiting my Festool Dealer, who is 150kms away,  in about a month for a demo of both machines. Stay tuned for the big reveal! My dealer has Internet sales, but given some of your comments I feel a demo and check of my unit  is required.

Again my appreciation to all who responded.

Stephen,  Remember to take some material that you intend to use for the Domino cutting demonstration.  It's always nice to see how the machine responds to the material that you'll be using after you get it home.

I brought some finished Teak to sand with a variety of Festool Sanders and it helped me decide which sander I wanted to purchase first.  Unfortunately, I wound up purchasing the other sander shortly after [wink]

Jack

 

[Kodi Crescent]

I'm building my first built-ins.  I was planning on attaching the face frames to the cases with dominos.  I was hung up on determining the face frame trim reveal and getting the dominos to match up.  Silly me.  I didn't have to do that calculation.  The domino mortises already account for that.  I could attach my face frames with the correct reveals all around, with no extra work on my part.

I'd buy it again.

 

[Stephen B]

Well I found myself at my favourite Festool Dealer sooner than I expected!

Had a full demonstration, and as the salesperson said, I will be getting out the timber scraps and "practice, practice".

Again many thanks to those who provided advice.

 

[peter halle]

GOAL!  Congrats.  Opps.  Not not here.  Probably trying out your new tool.  Experiment with holding positions, feed rate, listen to the cutter - it will talk to you.  Let us know how you're doing.

Peter

 

[Stephen B]

Insert Quote
GOAL!  Congrats.  Opps.  Not not here.  Probably trying out your new tool.  Experiment with holding positions, feed rate, listen to the cutter - it will talk to you.  Let us know how you're doing.

Peter

Thanks Peter for your support. Why was I not on line - "Opps. Not not here."? Well walking the dog, cleaning out the shed for a workshop refit, and in the house I am owner building/extending, sanding a floor and laying vinyl underlay - at least the CT 26 got a workout. But I did manage to read the Festool USA supplemental manual and start it up earlier this evening AEST.

 

[PaulMarcel]

There's definitely a learning curve to using the Domino to its fullest.  Shane and the others put together this Ultimate Domino Guide on the Festool USA blog awhile back.  As a disclosure, I'm on that a lot; based on hits from that page, I can tell a lot of people have it bookmarked as a place to go to work on that learning curve.

Another video along the DF-700-vs-DF-500 line is getting recorded this weekend.

 

[Stephen B]

Thanks Paul, have just book marked the site on my I Pad.

It appears to be very comprehensive.

 

[City Properties Inc]

I looked at it played with it and almost bought it but decided to go the XL and added this: http://www.senecawoodworking.com You know only need one tool.
We don't usually touch anything less the 3/4 and we do then I can reduce the bit.

 

[Jimarnold126@gmail.com]

I have both and love both.  The 500 is my go-to unit for 80% of my jobs but when you need the 700 there is no substitute.  The 500 is handier, easier to use and for anything 3/4" or less better to use.  But the 700, with the additional plunge depth, is really nice.  I really like it for 90 degree butt joints that are hidden.  Clamp up the two pieces at 90 degrees and just plunge through the first board into the second with one stroke.  The results are perfect and it is a very strong butt joint.  That is how I made the honeycomb for my torsion box.  For a torsion box it is critical that all of the boards are flat on top or the surface will not be flat.  The 700 was fantastic.