Domino fence vs pencil marks

[Tayler_mann]

I have had my domino tool for a little while now and have formulated a few questions after using it a bit more extensively. I am looking for a little advice as I ama new user to the tool and like anything there is a lot to learn.

I have found that sometimes my two pieces will line up perfectly, and sometimes they do not. I use to think maybe it was just me placing it in and off position or having it cock eyed on the fence. After using it I am puzzled because when I use it I triple check every time the material is flush on the fence and against he hard stop of the tool. I make sure to mark each face of the material in which he domino fence rests and even as far as numbering the joints. A lot of times I will have about 1 mm of my material over hang one edge or the other. Once again so I make sure that everything was marked top and bottom left right front and back so I did not get anything flipped.

On the other hand if I use pencil marks it lines up perfectly 99% of the time and if it does t I know the error was in my placement of the tool. However, I was making an apron for a desk and putting 45 degree miters out of 5/8" stock into square cut 1 1/2" stock to make an "L" shape for the shape of the desk. This was trouble some because I could not use a pencil to mark my material since it was different thicknesses. For this purpose I used the fence with the stops and actually had it turn out good on one side but always be off a little on the other side. Also, it was never from the same side of the domino tool it would just vary and since I wanted to test my domino I did it a few different times as I was slightly frustrated and had extra material.

My question is; what am I doing wrong? I would love the constructive criticism from anyone with any advice.

Thanks

™

 

[promhandicam]

I only ever use the tight  setting for the domino width on the first of a series  of holes and never have any  alignment issues. If you are making cabinets or edge jointing then there is no benefit in using the tight setting other than for one pair of holes.

 

[Discap]

Remember that if you are using both the tight and loose settings then you cannot use the fences/pins.  The wider setting will cause the mortises to be in the wrong position relative to the tight positions.  If you want to use the pins you must go either all tight or all loose.  Don't ask me how I know.

Bill

 

[Tayler_mann]

Thanks for the advice. I do know that the loose setting is the way to go for most applications and I do know  about when spacing them  you need to be careful how you use the pins. However, in certain applications it is nice to get one or possibly two tight fitting dominos over one loose do to the size of material. I have seen the tool used like this and know it is possible to do flawlessly.

 

[promhandicam]

Remember that if you are using both the tight and loose settings then you cannot use the fences/pins.  The wider setting will cause the mortises to be in the wrong position relative to the tight positions.  If you want to use the pins you must go either all tight or all loose.  Don't ask me how I know.

Bill

I use the pins,  and do the first tight and the others loose. On the first piece working L to R and the mating piece R to L.  On cabinets I always work from the back edge so that when I fit the back panel there are no gaps.

 

[Birdhunter]

I never use the paddles on the 500 or the pins on the 700. Pencil marks work every time. One board gets all narrow and the other gets all wide. I tap to get perfect lateral joints. Narrow to narrow works if you are perfect, but I view it as giving away an advantage.

 

[Grasshopper]

I prefer to use the pencil marks all the time when I use my domino.  This helps me plan the mortices (and watch out for where I don't want to place a mortice in the heat of the moment).

I actually typically do a Loose side and a tight side when joining two joints so I can have a little play when aligning.  Just the way I like to Domino.

 

[Cheese]

Pencil marks + I actually typically do a loose side and a tight side when joining two joints so I can have a little play when aligning.  Just the way I like to Domino.

Pencil marks + one board gets all narrow and the other gets all wide. I tap to get perfect lateral joints. Narrow to narrow works if you are perfect, but I view it as giving away an advantage.

Pencil marks + with a twist added to what you guys do. One side all tight, and on the opposite board the center domino is also tight but all others that are right and left of center domino are loose. Less alignment issues.

 

[BUTTER]

Remember that if you are using both the tight and loose settings then you cannot use the fences/pins.  The wider setting will cause the mortises to be in the wrong position relative to the tight positions.  If you want to use the pins you must go either all tight or all loose.  Don't ask me how I know.

Bill

I use the pins,  and do the first tight and the others loose. On the first piece working L to R and the mating piece R to L.  On cabinets I always work from the back edge so that when I fit the back panel there are no gaps.

On anything over three dominos I use the wings and above technique for speed and efficiency!  Sometimes, if the parts are really long, I find it advantageous to use narrow mortises for the piece being inserted and wider mortises for the piece more visible when assembling, (except for that first narrow slot for alignment.)
Whether you have pins or paddles, (I've used both,) they are a really big advantage when aligning ends.

 

[Ivanhoe]

Good tips!

 

[Rick Christopherson]

Just to throw a wrench in the discussion of wide settings, the last time my Domino was switched into the wide setting was January 2, 2007. (I found the photograph of it.) It's never been in a wide setting since then.

 

[promark747]

[quote author=Joseph C]
Whether you have pins or paddles, (I've used both,) they are a really big advantage when aligning ends.
[/quote]

I agree, but on anything other than ends, I sometimes have problems using the pins on my DF700.  The pins are not exactly round like the original DF500 pins, and I find that occasionally when I'm trying to index a pin inside an existing Domino mortise, the pin doesn't seat perfectly, causing slight alignment errors (usually a height error).

 

[grbmds]

Just to throw a wrench in the discussion of wide settings, the last time my Domino was switched into the wide setting was January 2, 2007. (I found the photograph of it.) It's never been in a wide setting since then.

So what do you use to line them up?

 

[Birdhunter]

Cheese, if any of the mortises are tight against tight, don't you lose all lateral adjustment play?

 

[Rick Christopherson]

Just to throw a wrench in the discussion of wide settings, the last time my Domino was switched into the wide setting was January 2, 2007. (I found the photograph of it.) It's never been in a wide setting since then.

So what do you use to line them up?

Silly question.....

  [big grin] [big grin]

But seriously, if I don't use my guide, I have always used a pencil.

 

[Tayler_mann]

Just to throw a wrench in the discussion of wide settings, the last time my Domino was switched into the wide setting was January 2, 2007. (I found the photograph of it.) It's never been in a wide setting since then.

Do you ever have your pieces not line up by roughly a 32"-64" or are they perfect? When I use the guides I just don't have the perfection when doing 45 degree bevels and applications like that where I cannot use a pencil mark.
Cheese, if any of the mortises are tight against tight, don't you lose all lateral adjustment play?

So what do you use to line them up?

Silly question.....

  [big grin] [big grin]

But seriously, if I don't use my guide, I have always used a pencil.

 

[grbmds]

Just to throw a wrench in the discussion of wide settings, the last time my Domino was switched into the wide setting was January 2, 2007. (I found the photograph of it.) It's never been in a wide setting since then.

So what do you use to line them up?

I suppose it was silly and I do know the tool you use but, for wider pieces that the jig doesn't work for, I wondered if you used pencil marks or not. I have found, in my limited experience with the Domino, that I am probably just as accurate marking with a pencil. Any variation is due to slight movement when the mortise is cut. I feel safer using a wide slot for that slight possible adjustment when putting it together.

Silly question.....

  [big grin] [big grin]

But seriously, if I don't use my guide, I have always used a pencil.

 

[Cheese]

[member=15289]Birdhunter[/member]

Cheese, if any of the mortises are tight against tight, don't you lose all lateral adjustment play?

I just make sure the 2 center domino holes are exactly centered and then there isn't any need for lateral adjustment. I used to do the same as you, but found myself always using a mallet to tap a bit on this side then on that side to align the boards. Worse yet, once the boards were aligned, I'd start to clamp them and the clamps would sometimes misalign the boards. Works for me. [smile]

 

[Birdhunter]

Cheese,

Thanks for the response. I see why you do it your way. I've had situations where the clamps cause unwanted motion.

 

[Tayler_mann]

Cheese,

Thanks for the response. I see why you do it your way. I've had situations where the clamps cause unwanted motion.

Yesterday after reading your response I tried this on the rest of the floating desks apron. It consisted of 4 - 22.5 degree cuts, 2 45 degree cuts and 2 - 90 degree cuts out of 4/4. Each bevel had a square 5/4 post in between each and joined with dominos. Ill update with pictures at some point to show the finished product.

Has anyone ever came up with a way of attaching an apron to the bottom of the desk with dominos other than making the buttons?