Domino Marking Strategy

gharel2

Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2023
Messages
9
I'd like to know what systems people have developed to mark for dominos. I have been doing some ad hoc symbols that are different every project and would like to organize myself better. Specifically:

- Reference face
- Mortise face
- Edge aligned (with flip stops)
- Cursor aligned
- tight/loose/extra loose
 
My basic marking strategy is:

1) Mark where the pencil lines or symbols will be covered by the joint itself if possible so you don't have to erase them. When marking, go easy on the lumber. The Festool video advice to mark lines boldly and sand them away is bad one.

2) It's OK to use pencil lines in the early stage of learning, but once past that stage, try to keep pencil lines to a minimum wherever possible, such as using the paddles/edge stops and/or employing the cross stop in repetitive milling.

 
For me I divide the distance equally for the number of tenons I want to use and mark the centre lines, and at the start I used to do the common trick of all on one board tight, then on the other board first one tight then the rest loose, but as the domino tenons have a couple mm of play, I now pretty much do all the mortises on tight. If I'm just doing a single tenon in the joint I'll use the left or right hand side of the Domino plate as the reference. I find I very rarely use the flip stops on either my 500 or 700, and I think over the years I maybe used the cross stop once.

To make it easy and repeatable, I rarely deviate from the appropriate default height, and always reference from the top faces. Apart from customising the depth to cater for wide to narrow stock joining, keeping the settings basic make it pretty fool proof, and you don't have to remember "that particular" setting you used for a project.

I do take care to mark joins with A1-A1, B1-B1, etc to make assembly easy. Honestly, don't over think it, so long as you develop a habit and stick to it for handling the reference points, it just becomes so easy.
 
Where possible I don't mark at all, but make use of the paddles or wings.

Regarding the use of pencils: most erasers contain silicone and thus are problematic when finishing. But there is an easy solution to that. Just use acetone to remove the marks. Acetone dissolves the graphite and leaves no stains after it has evaporated. It won't give you any trouble when finishing either.
 
Sometimes I use masking tape, but mostly I just use a light mark with a pencil.

Put the boards together on a flat surface and put masking tape across the "joint" to mark where the domino is going to go.  Cut the masking tape along the "joint" with ta knife and then line the domino up with the edge of the tape.  The tape also shows you which is the reference surface, and can be removed afterwards without leaving a mark.

regards
Bob
 
hdv said:
Where possible I don't mark at all, but make use of the paddles or wings.

Regarding the use of pencils: most erasers contain silicone and thus are problematic when finishing. But there is an easy solution to that. Just use acetone to remove the marks. Acetone dissolves the graphite and leaves no stains after it has evaporated. It won't give you any trouble when finishing either.

One of the best things I've done to help my final finishing was to switch to a .7mm or .9mm mechanical pencil instead of a sharpened wooden pencil. I can't press hard enough to make a deep mark without breaking the lead, which has trained me to use a lighter hand. When laying out Dominos I rely on the paddles for anything at the end of a board. I put a small "X" to indicate top face and draw an oval in the approximate location of where the mortise will be cut. If I don't see the oval, I know my board is backward. Mid board joints are marked with a light square line. I've noticed Sedge doesn't bother with a square, relying on aligning to the pencil mark precisely at the edge of the board. Not sure why the square line makes me feel more confident, but it does.

I'm going to try acetone. I haven't noticed a problem with a high-polymer eraser, but I'm always willing to learn something new and I always have acetone.
 
Pencil going into the grain is a #.  Edge flaps for the tight.  Everything mid panel is definitely loose so a very dull pencil that erases nicely is good enough.  The pica 0.9 erases very nicely.
 
I use erasers a lot (magic rub 1954) for cabinet work and never have had a problem with finishing. Neither have I ever heard from any woodworkers I've come across all these years that erasers are a potential finish wrecker.

I've tried denatured alcohol but didn't find it more effective or as convenient as erasers. Acetone? I don't like the smell or the need to wear gloves, so I have never tried it for removing pencil marks.

While you can buy silicone erasers, I don't think common erasers such as Staedtler Mars contain any silicone, and we shouldn't worry about using them as long as the eraser residues are cleaned up.https://www.mcgill.ca/oss/article/general-science/how-do-erasers-work

 
gharel2 said:
I'd like to know what systems people have developed to mark for dominos. I have been doing some ad hoc symbols that are different every project and would like to organize myself better. Specifically:

- Reference face
- Mortise face
- Edge aligned (with flip stops)
- Cursor aligned
- tight/loose/extra loose

I posted this jig here:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/other-tools-accessories/using-a-domino-(dw500)-as-a-morticer/

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
for tables tops or other similar stuff I like to mark on the back side using a box cutter or similar device.
I like the fine sharp line of the razor better than a pencil line.
 
I have the DF-500 and use the tabs and the cross spacers for almost everything. I do mark one side of my boards to know which side faces which and this is useful for both reference face on the domino but also for assembly. I also got used to referencing the tab on the outside edge of all boards.

With all the built in precision of the tool I rarely find myself needing to mark and use a line for the lineup.

When joining two panels I’ll make one tight mortise and the rest will be on the first loose setting.

 
SolventSolution said:
I have the DF-500 and use the tabs and the cross spacers for almost everything. I do mark one side of my boards to know which side faces which and this is useful for both reference face on the domino but also for assembly. I also got used to referencing the tab on the outside edge of all boards.

With all the built in precision of the tool I rarely find myself needing to mark and use a line for the lineup.

When joining two panels I’ll make one tight mortise and the rest will be on the first loose setting.

[member=81483]SolventSolution[/member] my process for the 500 is the same.  And welcome to FOG!  Stay around and you will find lots of great (helpful) people and lots of good information on Festool, woodworking, wood shops, and many other topics.
 
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