DOMINO "Spacers" Bench Hook

C

charlie b

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2007
Messages
34
The DOMINO's 45mm to centerline of mortise "stop" pins seems a bit long for many of things I want to use it for (the list expanding by the hour).  I want "spacers" in order to bring the first mortise referenced of an edge in 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" - values we non-metric folk are familair (and comfortable with).  So here's the old Tried & True bench hook, adapted to provide interchangable "spacers" - referencing off either end of the part.

Working on a version for side grain.

Very interesting tool this DOMINO.  Thinking in metric - well that's gonna take a while.

charlie b
(if this is posted twice it was either because I hit "Post" and nothing happened
OR -
 
It took me a while to understand how to use the hook this way so I'll spell it out for anyone else who hasn't yet absorbed the caffeine.

The hook sits/hooks on your bench or MFT and the workpiece sits on top of the hook butted up against the interchangeable spacer block which offsets the Domino's pin the desired distance to achieve the reduced mortise to edge distance.
 
Similar approach discussed here:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=785.0

Could the earth magnets be ground to a precise width to accomplish desire offset dimensions? So far, I have not needed a precise offset, just something that works on a narrow style and rail. If I want to vary the amount of offset, I simply add or subtract a magnet. Results have been very satisfactory.
 
You don't want to grind them after they have been magnetized, unless you want to have an unremovable coating of VERY insistent magnetic grit.

If you can get them unmagnetized, the grinding won't be as much of a problem.

Demagnitizing rare earth magnets is not so easy. I think the easiest way is through heat treatment, rather than trying to do with with magnetic fields.

Charles
 
Jeff,
Is there any reason you wouldn't be able just use metal shims to cover the "sub-magnet width" rather than trying to grind the magnets? There should be plenty of hold in the magents to keep the shim in place.
Just a thought,
Daniel
 
Charlie,

I was thinking about the same type of a jig. I would add a DeStacco clamp to hold the boards as well.

could you modify this to be a PDF file that could be downloaded and printed to normal paper?
 
Daniel Platt said:
Jeff,
Is there any reason you wouldn't be able just use metal shims to cover the "sub-magnet width" rather than trying to grind the magnets? There should be plenty of hold in the magents to keep the shim in place.
Just a thought,
Daniel
Click to expand...

Great idea! You could even make up a set of spacers using feeler guages that have been cut to length. So far, I've not needed such precision, just a couple of 10mm magnets have done the trick. But there may be a time.
 
charlie b said:
The DOMINO's 45mm to centerline of mortise "stop" pins seems a bit long for many of things I want to use it for (the list expanding by the hour).  
Click to expand...

Am I missing something here? The distance of the index pin to the center line of the mortise on my Domino is 37 mm, not 45 mm.

Rocker
 
Hello Guys,

      I am new to this forum, however I am a serious Festool junky.  Whenever I am headed out to Woodcraft, the LOML states that I must be going to get my "Festool fix".  I reply with the fact, that I know she will soon be going to get her shoe fix as well. LOL!
Now back to the subject at hand.  What I have found beneficial, is to attach the trim stop, and then offset the wing adjustments to accomplish this task.  If the part is wider than the trim stop will allow, I simply remove one of the wings from the trim stop.  It has worked out great for me thus far.
 
Rocker said:
charlie b said:
The DOMINO's 45mm to centerline of mortise "stop" pins seems a bit long for many of things I want to use it for (the list expanding by the hour). 
Click to expand...

Am I missing something here? The distance of the index pin to the center line of the mortise on my Domino is 37 mm, not 45 mm.

Rocker
Click to expand...

Rocker,

Don't think you're missing anything. From the edge of the locating pin, or the edge of the work piece, to the center of the mortise is 37mm. From the center line of the pin to the center line of  the mortise is 45mm. IMO Charlie has erred. When you read his formula, he is using 13mm in it. Not sure where that comes from but if you use it, plus the bit diameter, divided by 2, as he does, you are closer to the 37mm. IE. 45-(13/2)= 38.5mm + (bit diameter/2). So these dimensions should be close enough to work.

I have successfully tried the magnets. My only problem is I seem to move the magnet sometimes. So I end of checking the magnets after each cut to make sure they are still placed correctly. While mortising a picture frame, the point of the pic frame tried to slip under the magnets thus moving the magnets.

It would be great if Mcfeely's would start making magnets with I.D.'s to slip over the locating pins so you could set the distance from the edge and the depth of the mortise both or either one. As Jeff has said, typically these dimension are not needed to be exact.
 
Rescue,

Sounds like good idea. Will give it a go next time. Thanks for tip. 8)
 
Rocker said:
charlie b said:
The DOMINO's 45mm to centerline of mortise "stop" pins seems a bit long for many of things I want to use it for (the list expanding by the hour).  
Click to expand...

Am I missing something here? The distance of the index pin to the center line of the mortise on my Domino is 37 mm, not 45 mm.

Rocker
Click to expand...

Still trying to get a feel for this forums site so if my earlier attempts to respond to Rocker's post actually got through - somewhere please pardon this message which repeats much of what I tried to post earlier.(apparently you have to "log in" to the specific forum on this site to post a message to it, rather than logging into the site and get posting permission to all forums on the site)

Rocker is absolutely correct - the Inside of Retractable Stop Pin to Mortise Centerline is, in fact, 37mm NOT 45mm.  The "Instruction Manual" that came with my unit is a bit lean on details - like the Inside to Inside distance of the Stop Pins.  Lacking any metric measuring devices to get emperical data on dimensions I deduced the distance between pins from the scribed lines on the Viewing Window.  I assumed the first line to the left or right of centerline was 20mm and counted lines to the edge of the Viewing Window. Missed a line counting. 

Have a bunch of diagrams to correct as a result of Rocker's observation.  Peer review is a very good thing.  Catches errors BEFORE they get too far.  Thanks Rocker. 

Regarding using round magnet spacers placed on the stop pins - if either the left or right magnet is slightly eccentric it can throw off the mortise location.  I want consistency of mortise location.  If it's off from where I'd ideally like it by 1/32" I don't care - as long as all mortises that are supposed to line up actually do.  The bench hook with "spacers" idea gives you consistency because the same
spacer is used as the reference off both the left and right edge of the part to be mortised.

charlie b
 
charlie b said:
Regarding using round magnet spacers placed on the stop pins - if either the left or right magnet is slightly eccentric it can throw off the mortise location.  I want consistency of mortise location.  If it's off from where I'd ideally like it by 1/32" I don't care - as long as all mortises that are supposed to line up actually do.  The bench hook with "spacers" idea gives you consistency because the same
spacer is used as the reference off both the left and right edge of the part to be mortised.

charlie b
Click to expand...

Charlie . . . my system of using magnets uses the same magnets on either side. I simply move them from one side to the other. I use the magnets' thicknesses to serve as the spacing determinant, therefore no differences in left or right mortises. Try it; you'll like it.
 
I did build a very similar jig to speed up the process of making face frame cabinets.
I did take a slightly different route (on the lazy side).

I did create a bench hook with the spacer permanently glued to it in the middle.
All my stock for the face frame have the same width so while makine the face frames I don't need to change the spacer nor move the spacer from side to side.

Emmanuel
 
Has anyone used the aussiemagnet or magnet eze. Which size ring magnet did you buy? Is the centre hole perfectly central so as to allow consistant accuracy without any eccentricity problems?

Mat from Oz
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Domino Face Mortising Jig - Any Interest?
2
Replies
38
Views
3K
smorgasbord
S
S
Domino Justification Video
2
Replies
32
Views
3K
HighlandMarine
H
R
Festool Domino 500 - Large Stock
Replies
10
Views
1K
Mike Goetzke
M
W
DF500 Domino face alignment issues
2
Replies
24
Views
2K
Crazyraceguy
Crazyraceguy
M
Behold! Desktrosity!
Replies
7
Views
840
Crazyraceguy
Crazyraceguy
Back
Top