domino tip ! how to

[honeydoman]

dah,  i have been using dominos a lot more and have even been using them to join shelves together etc.  I am building a mudroom bench and used the domino to basically assemble the entire unit.  and then put each piece together.  so several issue you have to think off and I thought I would share.

1.  I used to clamp a board down to do this and remembered about these clamps and so I bought one saturday and used it today to do  as shown in the picture and it worked great.  some of you probably already know this but others don't  so that is my tip  to do the slots up and down the board.

 

[peter halle]

Kreg,

You can also use the non splinter strip side for the Festool rails.  Means less things to carry on site.

Peter

 

[honeydoman]

yes but then you have to clamp it with 2 clamps... these clamps, clamp tight on the ply and laying on my work table  quick and easy... and yes I carry a ton of stuff.. but these just seem easier.  and for 30 bucks no big deal

 

[semenza]

Do you find that they stay clamped well?  Hmmm, since you are using them I guess thats a dumb question.  But I had some of that type that did not grip well if the ply had any flex or warp/bow in it.  I have been using the back side of the rails as Peter suggested, but I could see that those clamps might be handier. 

Seth

 

[EWTHeckman]

Those may be smaller than carrying a rail clamp, but they're also $45 compared to $30.

Still, cost isn't everything.

 

[ScotF]

yes but then you have to clamp it with 2 clamps... these clamps, clamp tight on the ply and laying on my work table  quick and easy... and yes I carry a ton of stuff.. but these just seem easier.  and for 30 bucks no big deal

Not if you have one of these Kreg. [big grin]

+1 one this clamp -- one of Festool's hidden gems and for some reason not all that popular...not sure why -- I love mine and it helps clamp the rail on all sorts of odd shaped surfaces when the the traditional clamps do not work and when you cannot risk the rail moving.  

Kreg -- thanks for the post.  I love seeing your different jigs and methods that work for you...every little tip or trick that I can pick up is great.  Thanks!

Scot

 

[Kevin D.]

It's ideal for cutting door bottoms without removing the door.

 

[joiner1970]

I did a review of the rapid clamps its somewhere on here if have a search around.

 

[rxe]

+1 one this clamp -- one of Festool's hidden gems and for some reason not all that popular...not sure why -- I love mine and it helps clamp the rail on all sorts of odd shaped surfaces when the the traditional clamps do not work and when you cannot risk the rail moving.   

I agree - just got one and it is a revelation.  Setting a guide rail against sheet goods was becoming a real PITA - got to one end, tighten, go to the other, tighten, muck about with adjustment, then have two clamps flapping around underneath when you tried to move the rail off. 

This is a "hidden" gem because you have to work out for yourself what the clamp is for.  Going back to my "instructions are a problem" thread - no one tells you that this is available or what it does.  You have to look at a bunch of small pictures on websites and think "WTF is that thing for?".

 

[honeydoman]

I have one of those clamps and have not used it much. Don't you need it to hang over for underneath clearance?

I will check it out today

In regards to moving. Nope it did not move. It clamps down tight and with my workbench being 30". Wide it can clamp and stay on top of table it's quick and easy

 

[builderbob]

I have been using the backside of the rail in conjunction with the qwas dogs & rail dogs...automatically self squaring!  Check it out!

Bob

 

[builderbob]

I'll try to post pics later!!!

Bob

 

[Brice Burrell]

I'll try to post pics later!!!

Bob

I've some pics myself, so I'll save you some trouble.

[attachthumb=#]
The pic above shows the Qwas dogs to hold the work piece and the rail dogs to index the rail perfectly 90 degrees.

[attachthumb=#]
You can also use the rail dogs on MFS profiles.  There's pencil marks on the blue tape to index the Domino in the right place.

[attachthumb=#]
Another very simple method is use the back side on the rail on the MFT.

 

[builderbob]

Brice!  I love the MFS bar...I don't own any yet, but aren't they pretty ridgid?  I like that option better than the rail!!!  Do they have the rubber bottoms too?

Thanks for the info!

Bob

 

[Brice Burrell]

Brice!  I love the MFS bar...I don't own any yet, but aren't they pretty ridgid?  I like that option better than the rail!!!  Do they have the rubber bottoms too?

Thanks for the info!

Bob

Yes, they are very rigid, no rubber/foam on the bottom.  Some foam on the bottom might make for an interesting experiment.

 

[jtwood]

Brice!  I love the MFS bar...I don't own any yet, but aren't they pretty ridgid?  I like that option better than the rail!!!  Do they have the rubber bottoms too?

The MFS bar is a great idea.  Thanks Brice.

Waiting for my MFS kit to show up in the brown truck, and now I have another use for it.

 

[builderbob]

I saw this on Brice's website a while back...seeing it again has pushed me over the edge to finally order my MFS...also combined with the ability to use as a trammel...3 for 1!!!

Has anybody seen Sean Ackerman....

Bob

 

[honeydoman]

Thanks Brice and several options available for this function

 

[Kevin Stricker]

Just curious, but why not clamp the piece you are joining (i.e. the shelf)? Then you just make a single mark and drill both mortises without moving anything or re- referencing. 

 

[CDM]

This is a "hidden" gem because you have to work out for yourself what the clamp is for.  Going back to my "instructions are a problem" thread - no one tells you that this is available or what it does.  You have to look at a bunch of small pictures on websites and think " is that thing for?".

Okay, I just did that.  To me it looks like both pieces go in a slot on the underside of the guide rail, get fixed in place by turning levers, and then the end of the big one can be moved a little by squeezing the green trigger.  So basically it's kind of like having an MFT-top quick clamp under a rail.

Two questions...

How thick does a board have to be for at least the small side to clear a surface underneath?

On a board with parallel edges, how far from perpendicular can you clamp the guide rail before the round rubber end pieces no longer provide a firm grip?