domino tip ! how to

[Brice Burrell]

Okay, I just did that.  To me it looks like both pieces go in a slot on the underside of the guide rail, get fixed in place by turning levers, and then the end of the big one can be moved a little by squeezing the green trigger.  So basically it's kind of like having an MFT-top quick clamp under a rail.

Two questions...

How thick does a board have to be for at least the small side to clear a surface underneath?

On a board with parallel edges, how far from perpendicular can you clamp the guide rail before the round rubber end pieces no longer provide a firm grip?

You've got the clamp figured out.  I don't remember off the top of my head how thick the material need to be to clear. (I'll check later and add it to this post)  You can over hand the end off a table of saw horses where you place clamp ends on thin material.  The one thing to be careful of with thin material is that you don't bow the material when you clamp the rail down tight.  You can get some angle before the clamp won't grip anymore, but honestly not a lot.  It's been a while since I've tried so I don't remember exactly how much.

 

[Kevin D.]

Okay, I just did that.  To me it looks like both pieces go in a slot on the underside of the guide rail, get fixed in place by turning levers, and then the end of the big one can be moved a little by squeezing the green trigger.  So basically it's kind of like having an MFT-top quick clamp under a rail.

Two questions...

How thick does a board have to be for at least the small side to clear a surface underneath?

On a board with parallel edges, how far from perpendicular can you clamp the guide rail before the round rubber end pieces no longer provide a firm grip?

You've got the clamp figured out.  I don't remember off the top of my head how thick the material need to be to clear. (I'll check later and add it to this post)  You can over hand the end off a table of saw horses where you place clamp ends on thin material.  The one thing to be careful of with thin material is that you don't bow the material when you clamp the rail down tight.  You can get some angle before the clamp won't grip anymore, but honestly not a lot.  It's been a while since I've tried so I don't remember exactly how much.

I just went and took a quick fiddle/look at mine, and the clamping face of both the gun end and the fixed stop end have a rubberized face that affixes to the workpiece and are flush to the bottom of the rail when in use.  Would would basically be limited to the strength integrity of the material you would be clamping in not buckling under clamping pressure.  In other words, if the piece was a 32nd (or less for that matter, I'm just throwing out an arbitrary thickness that would be considered "thin") of an inch thick but unbendable or that its edge would not crush under clamping pressure, you could use this device with your rail to clamp it.

 

[woodwreck]

One key benefit to the OP concept would appear to be the presence of the tape measure along the edge for spacing. The Festool saw rail does not have one on the back side as mentioned, but the MFS does (unless I have my products confused). The other pros and cons (accessories costs) are as mentioned through the thread.

Providing the sheet good is on a flat surface, 1/4" thick will work with the clamp.

1/2" or heavier certainly is a non issue.

Excessive clamping to bow the goods is a non issue IMHO/experience as it is not a threaded clamp over-tighten, type of mechanism. It is a pre-determned cam & lever and the pressure is constant no matter what the goods, and it is not enough to bow the material, certainly at 1/2", usually not at 1/4".

Interesting idea.

 

[Nick C]

I agree with Kevin's suggestion. I just mark out the end of the shelf and lay it flat on the cabinet side where it needs to be attached. The marks work for both sets of holes. Very quick.

 

[tjbnwi]

I have done/do this using the rail and the FS-Rapid clamp. The clamp woks extremely well.

On thing I have noticed in this thread is a number that is missing. The distance from the bottom plate on the Domino and the center of the bit is 10mm. It is important if you need to place a piece at a location. If the location is critical, I set the height gauge on the Domino to 20, referencing the fence face off the critical side of the work piece.

Tom

 

[Sparktrician]

I have done/do this using the rail and the FS-Rapid clamp. The clamp woks extremely well.

On thing I have noticed in this thread is a number that is missing. The distance from the bottom plate on the Domino and the center of the bit is 10mm. It is important if you need to place a piece at a location. If the location is critical, I set the height gauge on the Domino to 20, referencing the fence face off the critical side of the work piece.

Tom

I've used the clamping bar like Kreg did, and had to remember to draw two layout lines 10mm apart as Tom noted before clamping down the bar.  As added insurance when using high-dollar plywood, I also mark the critical line  with "DOMINO" to avoid expensive mal-boo-boos. 

[smile]

 

[jmbfestool]

Do you find that they stay clamped well?  Hmmm, since you are using them I guess thats a dumb question.  But I had some of that type that did not grip well if the ply had any flex or warp/bow in it.  I have been using the back side of the rails as Peter suggested, but I could see that those clamps might be handier. 

Seth

I bought a rail like that when i first started joinery used it once didnt bother with it after that.

Like you said they dont clamp very well  I found mine had slight movement if u applied sideways pressure aswell.

JMB