Domino to help make stronger picture frames?

Just F Me

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Joined
Aug 4, 2014
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227
Hello FOG,

I have a business where I print on canvas.  I also make my own frames because the prefab frames are garbage.  Currently, I use a miter saw and make a 45 degree miter cut.  I then glue two 45s together and use an 18 ga brad nailer and pop probably 12-18 nails in each corner.  These brad nails don't really make it stronger, so now, an excuse to buy another Festool.

I'm thinking about buying a Domino 500 to use a domino in the 45 degree corners to hold two end frames together...will this work?  I obviously will use the domino for other reasons, but if I can justify it that I can use it as a business write off, I can get one quicker. 

Thanks!
 
Depends on the dimensions of the frames. I use my domino 500 and a 4mm cutter for smaller stock. What size are your frames?
 
I find it's difficult to clamp a mitered frame together when using dominoes.  It's a very tight fit.  I use splines after the frame is glued up
 
25 years ago, I was involved in an art gallery and framing shop with family members. We used a specialized machine with a built-in router to cut "bowtie" shaped slots in the miter. Then we glued the miter together and tapped in these plastic connectors to lock the joint.

Fletcher Cornerlock 4000

Looks like it is no longer made. but this is another one that is available
Hoffmann joiner
 
I made several small mirror frames the other day with 4mm dominos and that worked out great.
 
I use 2 each 4 mm dominos (for each corner) in 3 1/2" wide window & door casing. Most of the time I just domino and glue up the "picture frame" and then mount the completed assembly on the window or door.
 
or you can use a metal plate in the back side with mechanical fasteners
 
A trick I have used to Domino frames is to cut the mortise, glue the tenon, push the pieces together, and then "pin" each end of the tenon with a brad. No clamps necessary. Be careful so as the brad doesn't go all the way through the frame.

Most times, I will predrill the holes during a dry fit-up so as to not accidentally split the frame.

This trick works if you have one side of the piece that doesn't show.
 
Miter clips will work as well. I  am using my tablet and do not know how to cut and paste a link or else I would have.
 
There's nothing better than clam clamps for this kind of application BUT then you have to deal with filling the resulting holes. If your ok with that then seriously glue and clam clamps are unbeatable.
 
I usually use my DF500 when making mitred frames.  For large frames, I plunge the mortises into the mitred ends and glue up the joint as normal.

Form smaller frames, I mitre the corners and glue up the frame as normal.  Then, for additional strength, I plunge blind mortises in from the back, glue in Dominoes, and cut them flush.  In this orientation, the grain direction does not run across the joint, but I feel that it still adds some strength.
 
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