Domino to Replace Doweling

Oso Rojo

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I have an odd application where I'd like to use the Domino rather than a down. I have a split rail fence with two rails. Where it ends, the two rails just angle down and rest on the ground. The top rail sits on top of the bottom rail. I planed flats on both to make the sit easier. I'd like to pin them so the lawn mowers don't knock them off. If I used a dowel, I could drill the dowel hole in the bottom rail and use a center finder to find the drill location in the upper rail.http://www.walmart.com/ip/MILESCRAF...4565&wl11=online&wl12=169313649&wl13=&veh=sem

How could I make this type of alignment with a Domino and use a tenon?

Bernie
 
I had something similar on one end of my split rail fences. I flattened them as you have, then drilled a hole straight through both and pinned it into the ground with a 10" nail. Kept them together and from being knocked out of place.
 
That would be my inclination as well...drill and stake the whole thing into the ground, otherwise it will still get knocked around even if the two rails stay together.  Would that accomplish what you need?
 
Oso Rojo said:
I have an odd application where I'd like to use the Domino rather than a down. I have a split rail fence with two rails. Where it ends, the two rails just angle down and rest on the ground. The top rail sits on top of the bottom rail. I planed flats on both to make the sit easier. I'd like to pin them so the lawn mowers don't knock them off. If I used a dowel, I could drill the dowel hole in the bottom rail and use a center finder to find the drill location in the upper rail.http://www.walmart.com/ip/MILESCRAF...4565&wl11=online&wl12=169313649&wl13=&veh=sem

How could I make this type of alignment with a Domino and use a tenon?

Bernie

I think if you know how to do it with a dowel, then just a dowel??
 
Would that accomplish what you need?

I don't like the idea of having the pinning stake showing from the top, but that leads to a similar idea. I can drill through the bottom rail and drive a piece of rebar into the ground. Then cut the rebar to be the right length to pass half through the upper rail and then drill that rail.

I think if you know how to do it with a dowel, then just a dowel??

Mainly because a domino is much stronger than a dowel.

Thanks for all your thoughts!

Bernie
 
Oso Rojo said:
Mainly because a domino is much stronger than a dowel.

Thanks for all your thoughts!

Bernie

And this is based on what scientific fact?
 
One dowel has a much smaller cross section than one domino. Therefore a domino is stronger than a dowel for a given size.

 
Oso Rojo said:
...
I think if you know how to do it with a dowel, then just a dowel??

Mainly because a domino is much stronger than a dowel.

Thanks for all your thoughts!

Bernie

Bernie,
http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/video/joint-strength-test.aspx

And they found that the dowels were stronger than one might imagine.
It should be easy to set the domino depth to the max if the wood is thin enough and plough through both boards from the top.

If you want it hidden then a 3/4 dowel drilled into the bottom board and a transfer plug put into that would allow the top board to get the point transferred to it. I cannot imagine how to do that with a domino, unless perhaps you started with a 1/4" dowel hole and the transfer pin, and got a mark on each one to base the domino to for registration.

So back to strength... If one used a 10-mm domino then the strength in the short direction is less than a 3/4" dowel, however the long dimension may be higher. Unless you know which way you are knocking the fence then round could be better. But I assume you knock the fence sideways more than in along the fence line (??).

I think you need a dowel transfer pin even if you desire to use a domino?

(I would probably ham-fistedly drill through both with a 3/4 auger and put in an oak dowel.  [unsure] )
 
If this was my problem, I'd drill through the split rails with a 3/8" drill bit, then go downstairs and cut a 18"-24" long piece of 304 stainless rod, grind a point on one end and pin the rails to each other and to the earth, recessing the stainless rod about 3/8" in the top rail. Then I'd get out my 3/8" plug cutter and cut two wooden plugs, glue, install and finish.

Rails are pinned and won't move, stainless won't rust and only you know the answer to this magic trick.  [big grin]
 
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