domino width settings

stairman

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Sep 29, 2011
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I'm not finding many uses for the Dominio's width selector.
It is my understanding, that one would cut the first Domino mortise pair at normal width,  then select the looser setting for the subsequent pairs to allow them to fit ???  -and this is what I don't get?
My Domino joints are cut with the normal setting,  and they all go together just fine.  -dry fit is a bit tight,  but get some glue on there, and they go together easier,  and  voila!  perfect joints,  -God, how I love this thing!

not only is there a slightly wider setting,  there is a way wider setting!

now..  I have a stair job coming up next week,  and there is a Curved stair and a multi-flight straight stair (straight-winder-straight 23 more steps, more winders then straight to the top...  )

I intend to use DOMINO joinery throughout both of these stairs.

the new Domino XL is the right tool for the job...  but finding one from Europe,  plus the transformer,  not to mention, that I would have no warranty on a very expensive tool...    eh!!!  not such a good idea!

so,  perhaps I can use my domino + a router to get the larger joints,  and make my own domino stock???

I'm thinking the largest width, slide over, indexing off the opposite end of the mortise,  cut again,  repeat,  and I can possibly make very wide mortises through a multiple cut procedure.

drop the fence and start over, and the height can be made thicker.  -this is a lot of work...  so I will need to determine A. if it works,  and B.  if it is feasible.
once the mortise is cut, a plunge router with a pattern bit, is my weapon of choice for making the mortises DEEPER

OTHER THAN making giant mortises,  what is the purpose for the looser  and loosest settings for the Domino width?
does anyone use these for anything ?

 
Chris Rosenberger said:
I very seldom use the wider width settings.

A place where the wider settings are needed is when connecting pieces that will expand and contract at different rates. Such as connecting a solid wood side to a plywood bottom or shelf.
Another example would be putting a breadboard end on a wide panel.

I am also looking forward to the new larger Domino. I believe it will replace my hollow chisel morticer.

Chris

It will!

I thought long and hard about that but the XL is an amazing machine. If you need a larger mortice than 14mm you simply index off each face to make the required width.

If you want through mortice again just plunge 70mm on one side, then plunge from the other side. The mortices are as clean as can be and no flex as could be encountered with the hollow chisel morticer.

Oh and also, no mess, 95% goes straight into the CT26.

I rate it up with the DF500 for a method of work changer!
 
I JUST returned home from the staircase jobsite  (a geometric straight, and a freestanding radius stair)  and I just found out that in addition to the stairs, I got the entire trim package, which includes several custom doors,  a ccustom wood gate,  and a LOT of ceiling details.  I could really use a Domino XL on this project... 
 
stairman said:
I JUST returned home from the staircase jobsite  (a geometric straight, and a freestanding radius stair)  and I just found out that in addition to the stairs, I got the entire trim package, which includes several custom doors,  a ccustom wood gate,  and a LOT of ceiling details.  I could really use a Domino XL on this project...   

FestoolUSA is looking for trial users of the XL machine here in the U.S. -- It sounds like you are the perfect "poster child".  [wink]
 
RonWen said:
stairman said:
I JUST returned home from the staircase jobsite  (a geometric straight, and a freestanding radius stair)  and I just found out that in addition to the stairs, I got the entire trim package, which includes several custom doors,  a ccustom wood gate,  and a LOT of ceiling details.  I could really use a Domino XL on this project... 

FestoolUSA is looking for trial users of the XL machine here in the U.S. -- It sounds like you are the perfect "poster child".  [wink]

Stairman

Sound like a PM to Shane!!! ;D ;D

 
Funny, I use the wider mortise settings all the time.  When you use the tight wide setting you'll need layout lines for a series of mortises.  I find layout lines frustratingly slow to layout and align the Domino compared to using the cross stops and the wider mortises.  Sure for one piece or when you need the strength of the a tight mortise layout lines aren't so bad....but for most of what I do there is no need unnecessarily spend the time on layout lines.   
 
Brice Burrell said:
Funny, I use the wider mortise settings all the time.  When you use the tight wide setting you'll need layout lines for a series of mortises.  I find layout lines frustratingly slow to layout and align the Domino compared to using the cross stops and the wider mortises.  Sure for one piece or when you need the strength of the a tight mortise layout lines aren't so bad....but for most of what I do there is no need unnecessarily spend the time on layout lines.     

I don't appreciate the need for using the wider setting(s) when using the cross stops?
 
RonWen said:
Brice Burrell said:
Funny, I use the wider mortise settings all the time.  When you use the tight wide setting you'll need layout lines for a series of mortises.  I find layout lines frustratingly slow to layout and align the Domino compared to using the cross stops and the wider mortises.  Sure for one piece or when you need the strength of the a tight mortise layout lines aren't so bad....but for most of what I do there is no need unnecessarily spend the time on layout lines.     

I don't appreciate the need for using the wider setting(s) when using the cross stops?

The cross stops aren't precise enough to use the tight mortise setting. 
 
RonWen said:
I don't appreciate the need for using the wider setting(s) when using the cross stops?

Brice took your question one way, probably the way you meant it.  But maybe you were referring to the math--that each time you register off a mortise bored at greater than the narrowest width, you're introducing an error equal to half the difference between the narrowest width and the width you're boring, so that if you have enough mortises in a single line, eventually they're not going to align.

Regards,

John
 
I agree with Brice about the cross stops.  They're not exactly up to the same tolerances as the Domino machine, mine even have a slight upward angle to them which annoys me as I'm running mortises down a line and the pin doesn't always engage in the previous mortise.

I don't recall ever needing position 3 mortise width, but I frequently use position 1 for the starting mortise and switch to position 2 for the remainder to help with assembly and alignment tweaking as wood is never perfect.
 
I agree with the original poster. In the 5 years I've had my Domino, I have never used the wider settings. If they were only 1mm and 2mm wider, then they would be more useful. But in my opinion, they are way too wide. If I need a little extra room, I move the Domino slightly and re-plunge.
 
Rick Christopherson said:
I agree with the original poster. In the 5 years I've had my Domino, I have never used the wider settings. If they were only 1mm and 2mm wider, then they would be more useful. But in my opinion, they are way too wide. If I need a little extra room, I move the Domino slightly and re-plunge.

+1............. if there was a dial with 1mm increments that would be really usefull
 
Dear Stairman

The wider settings are, as Chris Rosenberger says, are not just for easy alignment but also to allow for expansion and contraction. The traditional 'breadboard ends' are an example of joints that allow for the differential expansion and contraction of wood along and across the grain.

If you are joining two pieces of wood from the same stock along the grain then the wider setting would only give you an advantage during lining up. If you were using two different species or if you were joining cross grain to long grain then you do need to allow for expansion and contraction.

In previous threads I have mentioned the advantage of the wider settings if you create your own dominos.

...and the discussion of the DF 700 - yes it is a fantastic machine and I am sorry that everyone in North America is having to wait but the reverse is often true for us Europeans. Elvis Presley never performed in the UK and only stopped in Scotland briefly on his way back to the US during his military service.

Happy New Year.

Peter
 
I've been using my trim stop frequently,  but I don't have the cross stop.  how are these inaccurate?  is there an inherent "flex" to them?

So far, everything I have used Domino's on has fit together as though it were enchanted to do so.  when test cutting at the alternate width settings, I tried the wider setting, and thought, wow,  that's a LOT wider,  and the widest was just awfully wide...

for the XL700 Beta Test Privilege,   I submitted a letter this evening,  as I have several jobs scheduled which would truly be GREAT trial tests for the XL,  AND, it just so happens I have a close friend who owns a production studio with a "Green Screen" for video production  

actually, this evening, I spent some time going over my stair plans for the Geometric Straight Stair,  and the 5 Exterior Door Sets + Gate I have on-deck,  trying to determine exactly how I'd use the Domino XL if I got my hands on one,  and the doors would be made so much easier,  that I see an advantage akin to the TS55/75 and Guiderail for cutting sheet goods.   How many of you have experience using a sliding table saw for busting up sheet stock for cabinets?  -then, after you 1st started using the TS55 or 75, thought to yourself:  -whoa.  I am faster with this thing than I am with a $20k Slider,  AND, I don't need a huge amount of space, I don't need 3 phase power,   -I don't need any of that,  and my results are as good or BETTER,  I am not tearing up my back...

you know,  the 1st big realization that you truly had a SUPERIOR way to work...

well,  studying my plans,  I am looking at the Domino XL in much the same way.    and I think that it could very well allow me the power and capability to compete with massively equipped Door manufacturing shops in an area smaller than the offices of  most of those said "shops"
time will tell,  but if I am fortunate enough to get ahold of an XL, and if it goes like I expect it to for the DOORS,  I will probably go ahead and MAKE the 45 passage doors rather than ordering them as I was intending to.  (I used to average 66 doors/month back when I had my big shop and focused on stairs and DOORS, so I do have some experience at the other end of this spectrum,  and as such, I am well aware what it typically requires for working capital when competitively manufacturing custom doors.  

As for the STAIRS, I see many ways to use the Domino,  but I also see the need to use my present Domino for some of the joinery as well.
Truly, the two machines are the perfect pair for Stair Joinery  ;D

back to the initial question,  if the first setting is TIGHT,  2nd setting is "Looser"    -what is that third LOOSEST setting typically used for?
aside from using the tool for cutting large mortises for something other than Domino Tenons,  I don't see what that last one was intended for ???
 
Stairman I wonder if festool had intended to produce more than one width of domino when the machine was designed
 
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