Domino XL

[tjbnwi]

Thanks - the glue discussion is an interesting one.  I typically use Titebond III - and generally don't like using gorilla glue because it expands so much - but I recall it being suggested on the last Ipe deck that I did (in which case I actually made my own dominos and used gorilla glue which expanded and made a mess all over).  I think that's why I considered using it.  If Titebond will work, then I'm all for it. 

When you say epoxy... are you suggesting a 2 part epoxy?   There must be an easier way.  For this project, we are actually tinting epoxy and using it to fill a relief carving... I'm not sure if I have the patience to actually use it to glue up the boards.  I can see why it would be an excellent choice for outdoor use though - especially with Ipe - it will be rock solid.  We use Raka epoxy for our outdoor sign work (sometimes it's for coating signs, sometimes it's for glueing).  We haven't really felt the need to switch yet... I can't remember why we decided to start using them... but I think that they were more affordable to start with  - it could have something to do with clarity and UV protection as well.

I must say, I generally don't ask experience type questions on here, but I really appreciate the excellent feedback.  Thank you. 

Try this;

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/new-six10-epoxy-adhesive/

Tom

 

[jacko9]

Thanks - the glue discussion is an interesting one.  I typically use Titebond III - and generally don't like using gorilla glue because it expands so much - but I recall it being suggested on the last Ipe deck that I did (in which case I actually made my own dominos and used gorilla glue which expanded and made a mess all over).  I think that's why I considered using it.  If Titebond will work, then I'm all for it. 

When you say epoxy... are you suggesting a 2 part epoxy?   There must be an easier way.  For this project, we are actually tinting epoxy and using it to fill a relief carving... I'm not sure if I have the patience to actually use it to glue up the boards.  I can see why it would be an excellent choice for outdoor use though - especially with Ipe - it will be rock solid.  We use Raka epoxy for our outdoor sign work (sometimes it's for coating signs, sometimes it's for glueing).  We haven't really felt the need to switch yet... I can't remember why we decided to start using them... but I think that they were more affordable to start with  - it could have something to do with clarity and UV protection as well.

I must say, I generally don't ask experience type questions on here, but I really appreciate the excellent feedback.  Thank you. 

Try this;

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/new-six10-epoxy-adhesive/

Tom

This West Systems product sounds interesting, have you used it Tom?  I've used their GFlex two part epoxy but I like the sounds of using it right out of the tube.

Jack

 

[tjbnwi]

Much neater and easier.

I have had Ipe come apart glued edge to edge no matter how well I cleaned it without Dominos in it.

Tom

 

[Birdhunter]

I've gotten some excellent advice re the outdoor unfinished Ipe benches I'm building.

I plan to use sipo tenons with epoxy glue for all the joining. I'd like to pin the tenons, but would like advice as to what to use for the pins. There will be ten benches so highly labor intensive approaches won't work for the time I have allotted to the project.

Halfinchshy used short nails and I could do this from the underside of the bench components.

Any other ideas?

 

[jacko9]

I've gotten some excellent advice re the outdoor unfinished Ipe benches I'm building.

I plan to use sipo tenons with epoxy glue for all the joining. I'd like to pin the tenons, but would like advice as to what to use for the pins. There will be ten benches so highly labor intensive approaches won't work for the time I have allotted to the project.

Halfinchshy used short nails and I could do this from the underside of the bench components.

Any other ideas?

I'd use a wood pin Sipo or other wood dowels in 1/8" if you can find them online.

Jack

 

[TurnagainD]

We have had mixed results gluing up Ipe.  What we do now is make sure we clean the mating surfaces thoroughly with denatured alcohol, where no more color bleeds on the rag, and then use the West Systems GFlex.  Don't skimp on the epoxy and use plenty of clamps.  I have found that that we sometimes can go back and fill in gaps with epoxy when the piece is in place.  It sands up great the next day and then we coat it with Penofin.  Titebond does not seem to work very well with Ipe.  I think the wood is just too oily.

 

[jacko9]

We have had mixed results gluing up Ipe.  What we do now is make sure we clean the mating surfaces thoroughly with denatured alcohol, where no more color bleeds on the rag, and then use the West Systems GFlex.  Don't skimp on the epoxy and use plenty of clamps.  I have found that that we sometimes can go back and fill in gaps with epoxy when the piece is in place.  It sands up great the next day and then we coat it with Penofin.  Titebond does not seem to work very well with Ipe.  I think the wood is just too oily.

Interesting but, my experience has been different.  I always use acetone to clean the wood prior to bonding but in several test samples, the Titebond III joint outperformed the West Systems GFlex?  I admit that my tests were non-scientific but when I stressed the joints to failure, the GFlex failed at the bond interface and the Titebond III was broken wood fibers mostly away from the interface.

I need to redo those tests and photograph my results.

I do use GFlex in a lot of cases and I do like it's properties.

Jack

 

[Ajax]

So if the GFlex failed at the interface and you used the same wood for both test pieces,then I would assume that the GFlex failed at a lower overall load.  Of course, without knowing the load you applied its hard to be certain what the results mean.

 

[jacko9]

So if the GFlex failed at the interface and you used the same wood for both test pieces,then I would assume that the GFlex failed at a lower overall load.  Of course, without knowing the load you applied its hard to be certain what the results mean.

I used the same wood for each joint but, since my loading method was shock in shear I can't say what the failure load was.  I did indicate that this was not a research kind of test since I did not measure applied load and only reported the interface failure with the same type of loading.

Jack