Dominoes vs Dadoes in 1/2" ply

[snichols]

I recently discovered a huge problem with the dadoes to house the web frames in a dresser I'm building. The dresser is about 65" long by 18" deep. Right, wrong, or indifferent the web frames are made of 1/2" baltic birch. The web frames are about 58" long for reference.

I've fixed the mistake but now I'm not sure what to do next. I now have a Domino and I'm wondering if I should use dominoes instead of dadoes to simplify the construction.

Has anyone used the 4mm dominoes for this task? I'd only use the dominoes to join the web frames to the sides. The back will be attached with pocket screws and glue.

Here is a link to my blog showing some pictures.

Incorrect Dadoes: http://whilethegluedries.wordpress.com/2013/09/20/ive-made-a-huge-mistake/

Design: http://whilethegluedries.wordpress.com/2013/08/27/this-dresser-she-mocks-me/

Any help is appreciated.

-Shawn

 

[stvrowe]

Given the thickness limitations of 1/2" baltic birch ply and strength requirements for bearing the weight of whatever you put in the drawers, I would stick with the dado.  Three years ago, I built a dresser/changing table for my grandson and when he started climbing, he pulled the drawers out and started using them as steps to get to the top.  He even managed to tip the dresser over but the drawers and webbing kept it from falling on him.  Needless to say, now there is an anti-tip anchor to prevent this.  I don't believe the 4mm Domino is appropriate for this particular application.  If it is an option at this point, I would consider going with thicker webbing but don't know if that is possible.

From your description, I assume you used the rail attached to the MFT to rout the dadoes and the rail dislodged from the tongue on the front while routing.  I would suggest removing the rail from the MFT and using clamps to secure it to the workpiece to machine the dadoes.

 

[snichols]

Steve is on the right track. I can't use thicker dominoes because of my (poor) choice of 1/2" ply.

When I originally made the dadoes, I used a guide rail and my OF1400. I didn't have an MFT at the time. I was leaning toward dadoes as well.

Any thoughts on how to cut them accurately?

 

[zapdafish]

I'd clamp the track to the ply as well  and I'd use something like this to space it correctly

woodpeck rule stop or bench rule

I wouldn't draw a line and try and line the track with that, I'd butt the track up against the end of the ruler on both sides, clamp and then cut

 

[rljatl]

Is there enough room to glue another sheet of, say 1/4" ply, to the inside of the sides and then re-cut the dadoes?  Also, you may be able to use a wide planer or wide belt sander to thin the sides by an 1/8" or 1/4" and then glue another sheet of 1/4" ply to the sides, re-cut the dadoes, etc...

 

[tjbnwi]

Steve is on the right track. I can't use thicker dominoes because of my (poor) choice of 1/2" ply.

When I originally made the dadoes, I used a guide rail and my OF1400. I didn't have an MFT at the time. I was leaning toward dadoes as well.

Any thoughts on how to cut them accurately?

No reason you can't use 5's, that is what I use. When the domino first came out there were no 4's. Plunge at 12 and 20, 12 into the flat, 20 into the end.

1/2" ply is 16 mm, using the thirds rule, you have 1 mm to give.

Do all your 12's first, then the 20's. Before you set the Domino down switch the depth back to 12. You'll not switch it only once.

Glue on the sides of the domino's tap them in gently with full support under your piece.

Tom

 

[Kevin Stricker]

I'm curious why you don't just use pocket screws if you have already planned to use them on the back? In my experience i want to use dominoes where it counts and pocket screws where it doesn't. If you are having challenges with getting Dadoes right , I think Dominoes might be even tougher. Both from a layout and glue up perspective. Remember you are talking about structure you will likely never see once the dresser is done.

As for setup on Dadoes, use story poles not measuring to get square cuts, and try to route both sides simultaneously if possible.