Double Dutch Garage Door Project
- Thread starter BarryL
- Start date
Yeah...I am about betting on a home made jig with as thick as these doors are. I like the looks of the Hinge-Mate jig but it also is not for thicker doors. I may have to finish up on my modification of the Shopnotes jig and test run it on some mock-ups. I will post the results of that here when I do it.
Notorious T.O.D.
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- Nov 24, 2008
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Barry,
You can make a hinge mortise jig with only two parts.
First take a piece of 3/4" plywood about 9 x 18 inches and cut a notch in it the size of your hinge leaf centered on the 18" side.
Put a short strip of wood on each side of the opening so that it catches the face of the door when you lay the larger piece on the edge of the door.
You can then use a 1/2" top bearing router bit to cut the mortise for the hinge and can practice on some scrap pieces to check the fit.
If you don't have the top bearing bit that is short enough you can make the opening in the 9x18 piece 1/16 inch larger than three sides of the hinge and use a 5/8 inch guide bushing and 1/2 inch straight router bit.
This jig can be used both on the jambs and the doors.
Best,
Todd
You can make a hinge mortise jig with only two parts.
First take a piece of 3/4" plywood about 9 x 18 inches and cut a notch in it the size of your hinge leaf centered on the 18" side.
Put a short strip of wood on each side of the opening so that it catches the face of the door when you lay the larger piece on the edge of the door.
You can then use a 1/2" top bearing router bit to cut the mortise for the hinge and can practice on some scrap pieces to check the fit.
If you don't have the top bearing bit that is short enough you can make the opening in the 9x18 piece 1/16 inch larger than three sides of the hinge and use a 5/8 inch guide bushing and 1/2 inch straight router bit.
This jig can be used both on the jambs and the doors.
Best,
Todd
Dave Ronyak
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- Jan 23, 2007
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- 2,234
Barry,
You might want to step up to a Festool MFS. Works great for doing hinge mortisese and whatever else you might want to do with your router. I used mine yesterday to create a mortice in the bottom panel of my garage storage cabinet. I needed to lower the position of the magnetic door catches so the new drawer I recently built could be installed as close to that bottom panel to provide clearance above for the jack stands and other equipment I store in this lower compartment.
Here's a photo of the cabinet before installation of the new lowest level drawer. The magnetic catches are screwed to the top surface of the bottom panel, and are in danger of being damaged every time I pull out one of the boxes containing automotive jack stands and other tools.
MFS 400 set up to mortice bottom panel. Note use of Festool clamp on right and "gravity clamp" on left. I used the right angle brackets that come with the MFS to assure alignment relative to the front edge of the panel.
Mortice completed, magnetic catch set in mortice to confirm correct depth. The OF 1400 is equipped with a PC bushing adapter and a 3/8 inch 2-flute HSS bit. For this non-critical job I just eyeballed the offset of the bit relative to the MFS edges.
Magnetic catches and drawer installed.
The more I use my MFS, the more uses I find for it. In this case, it save me from either making a template or chiseling the needed mortice by hand while kneeling on a cold concrete floor. The MFS made this little job fast, neat and accurate.
Dave R.
You might want to step up to a Festool MFS. Works great for doing hinge mortisese and whatever else you might want to do with your router. I used mine yesterday to create a mortice in the bottom panel of my garage storage cabinet. I needed to lower the position of the magnetic door catches so the new drawer I recently built could be installed as close to that bottom panel to provide clearance above for the jack stands and other equipment I store in this lower compartment.
Here's a photo of the cabinet before installation of the new lowest level drawer. The magnetic catches are screwed to the top surface of the bottom panel, and are in danger of being damaged every time I pull out one of the boxes containing automotive jack stands and other tools.
MFS 400 set up to mortice bottom panel. Note use of Festool clamp on right and "gravity clamp" on left. I used the right angle brackets that come with the MFS to assure alignment relative to the front edge of the panel.
Mortice completed, magnetic catch set in mortice to confirm correct depth. The OF 1400 is equipped with a PC bushing adapter and a 3/8 inch 2-flute HSS bit. For this non-critical job I just eyeballed the offset of the bit relative to the MFS edges.
Magnetic catches and drawer installed.
The more I use my MFS, the more uses I find for it. In this case, it save me from either making a template or chiseling the needed mortice by hand while kneeling on a cold concrete floor. The MFS made this little job fast, neat and accurate.
Dave R.
Barry,
I really think you will need a beefier hinge than the ones you have. The 4.5" hinge you have in the pic are designed for 1.75 or 2.25" thick doors. The screws will most likely engage the osb panel and while the dominoes are a good idea I think they may spit over time as the screw pulls against the surrounding osb. Wider leaves are in order. JMO
Eiji
I really think you will need a beefier hinge than the ones you have. The 4.5" hinge you have in the pic are designed for 1.75 or 2.25" thick doors. The screws will most likely engage the osb panel and while the dominoes are a good idea I think they may spit over time as the screw pulls against the surrounding osb. Wider leaves are in order. JMO
Eiji
Yes Dave...I would have to agree with you that an MFS is definitely in orde....I think that would make the motising a bunch easier...and I definitely spent too much energy and time already on building a jig that I am not positive yet will do the job...only problem is funds right now...other purchases are in the works limiting my spending....sooo,,,I will have to make do. Do you have a Festool part number for that gravity clamp?
Eiji...I can't say that I disagree with you at this point...it is certainly a concern of mine. I thought about a 5" butt hinges to get the little extra depth into the door...I originally was putting two hinges per quadrant...the lack of depth is the sole reason I added a third hinge per door... Another reason was price...It was getting to be ovr 400.00 just for hinges when I was looking at the 5" hinges...hmmm..
Eiji...I can't say that I disagree with you at this point...it is certainly a concern of mine. I thought about a 5" butt hinges to get the little extra depth into the door...I originally was putting two hinges per quadrant...the lack of depth is the sole reason I added a third hinge per door... Another reason was price...It was getting to be ovr 400.00 just for hinges when I was looking at the 5" hinges...hmmm..
Dave Ronyak
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- 2,234
Barry Londrigan said:
Barry,
The Festool item number is GFC030 (Gravity Force Clamp, 30 lbs force). Unfortunately, its NAINA.
A couple of years ago, I needed to install several new passage doors using the old hinges on old door frames, and on one to swap out and add an additional hinge because the new door was much heavier than the old. I bought a PC single position, molded plastic hinge morticing jig. It worked, sort of, then I broke it. At least I got a basic top bearing router bit I can still use. Also, it was much more difficult to properly size and position and secure to the door than my MFS. And, of course, the MFS has many other uses, some of which are described in Jerry Work's manual. If I had purchased my MFS earlier, I also could have used it to add extensions onto the bottoms of several doors the previous home owner had hacked very short. I could have routed them with sliding dovetails using the MFS.
Dave R.
For attaching HardiPanel, I am using a nail gun. A round head framing nailer works for me.
A HardiPanel competitor Certainteed Fiber Cement has a lot of good information on their web site.
http://www.certainteed.com/
When framing I set it for deepest possible nailing, so I get fully seated to a little over seated, depending on wood hardness, if I hit a knot, etc.
For the HardiPanel I set the depth so I get a little less depth. The deepest nails are correct. Many I have to finish off with a hammer.
A HardiPanel competitor Certainteed Fiber Cement has a lot of good information on their web site.
http://www.certainteed.com/
When framing I set it for deepest possible nailing, so I get fully seated to a little over seated, depending on wood hardness, if I hit a knot, etc.
For the HardiPanel I set the depth so I get a little less depth. The deepest nails are correct. Many I have to finish off with a hammer.
