Drill (long) hole in post (axial) (~ 800 mm) ?

[threesixright]

Hi ya all!

Hope everybody is doing good!

I considering to put some led lighting in railing posts (100x100 mm). These are ~ 1200 mm (~3 ½ ft) in length. 

To hide the elec. cable I'm thing drilling a hole in the center (axiaal) with a long auger drill bit ( 800 mm / 20 mm).

Due to the length, I'm afraid the dill will wonder off the center, therefore looking for tips. How to keep it center? 

Maybe a mission impossible? Also good to know  [blink]

Any other ideas how to hide (was thinking to route it on the outside and cover it somehow)?

Thank you all!

Rog.

 

[jeffinsgf]

Google "gun drill". They're designed to drill straight and not drift, but work best when connected to an air compressor.

Cutting a dado and gluing in a strip might be an easier approach, if you can accept the glue lines.

 

[afish]

Would probably need to see a drawing or photo of your project for best ideas for alternate ideas.  I cant really picture what you are trying to do. the other option it to split the post route a channel in each half and glue back together.  the grain will match up and should provide nearly invisible joint.

 

[afish]

Are you putting "lighting in railing posts" or just routing the wires through the posts to the top for a light on top of the post? The way its worded I pictured posts with lights in them but thinking you mean lights on top with the wires through the post.  Another option if you want lights "IN" the post is the aluminum LED channel.  I can visualize many different options or possibilities for the channel.  I kind of love that stuff for a clean modern look if thats what you are after.

 

[afish]

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[threesixright]

Thanks all for the responses!

I added a little sketch.

Plan was to use a "recessed wall led" (outdoor approved), see picture.

Obvisouly the hole doesn't need to be dead straight, as long it doesn't come out the side  [tongue]

 

[Packard]

I did this years ago.  But instead of drilling, I used my dado head to make about a 1/2" wide by 1" deep slot the length of the post.  I then tucked in the wires and glued in a piece of stock to fill the opening.  I sanded the surface flat and painted.  No one could tell that it was done this way once it was painted.  Easy.  No special tools required.  But only works with square posts.

 

[afish]

I think its doable.  I would cut some or use some scraps of the same material and drill a hole same size as the bit dead center. lets say your material is 4x4 for example.  cut 3 or 4 blocks 4x4x4 drill hole dead center in all.  set a long straight edge up on the bench  and clamp your post at far end and space your blocks (also along the straight edge) so everything is flat and in line.  Clamp the blocks along the straight edge too.  These are your drill guides.  stand at the other end and drill into the post. each time you get 10-12 inches deep unclamp the post and slide it closer and remove a guide block as need or slide them down to.  Cant guarantee it but its working in my head which is usually 70/30 or 80/20.  Otherwise I would split in half route and glue or miter fold a post cover to wrap around it.  Hopefully my words made sense if not let me know and I will try to sketch something.

 

[afish]

aH i WENT AHEAD AND SKETCHED SOMETHING REAL QUICK.  Oops caplock.  the "post" will move closer to the drill end and the post and blocks need to be clamped.  I would keep the blocks and just slde them down as needed until you reach the point of "having to remove them but at that point your hole should be deep enough to act as guide.

 

[rvieceli]

I’m of the opinion that 20 mm auger bit will run truer with less wander than a regular bit.

Consider drilling a bit more than half way from the top and then come in from the bottom to finish. When I’m drilling lamp bodies and need to have both holes in certain spots that’s what I have found works. But I’m using a 3/8 and 1/2 regular bit.

Ron

 

[Packard]

This old house did a laminiated version of my lamp post.  A similar concept.  Again no drilling.  In most areas 110 volt line have to be buried at least 12" under the ground.  Low voltage systems do not have that requirement. 

 

[Cheese]

I’m of the opinion that 20 mm auger bit will run truer with less wander than a regular bit.

Consider drilling a bit more than half way from the top and then come in from the bottom to finish. When I’m drilling lamp bodies and need to have both holes in certain spots that’s what I have found works. But I’m using a 3/8 and 1/2 regular bit.

Ron

I'm with Ron on this one, however I would definitely start the hole with a drill press and go down at least 6"-8" before switching to the long ship auger. Milwaukee makes this ship auger bit AD 20 x 600 with a working depth of 530 mm. The large number of flutes will act as a guide and prevent the drill from moving off center, however it has to be started straight to begin with, thus the need for a drill press.

It's made for timber framing and it will get hot so let it cool down between holes.

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[Bob D.]

Toss the wires and the work. Use a solar powered light.

 

[blues]

Use a woodowl tricut drill bit. These are the best money can buy.. they self feed..stay true and cut like butter.