drill press??

It’s hard to say. Looks to be good in good shape. Probably in the 1500 to 1750 range. There won’t be a lot of action on stuff until the final day.

I’ve dealt with this auction house before and got some stuff for my son.

Ron
 
bidspotter.com is an interesting site. Sort of a clearing house for several industrial auction houses.

You can search across the entire platform, so you get multiple auctions in a search.

Ron
 
All this drill press talk reminded me I needed to do a little inspection/maintenance on mine.  [big grin]

Check out the Reeves drive and check the gear oil in the gear box.

[attachimg=1]

Ron
 

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Ron is that an Electro Mechano?

What maintenance needs to be performed on the Reeves drive?
 
It is an Electro Mechano 601J. Bench top with a big production base. Love it. Although I wouldn’t mind having an 801 floor model.  [wink] I rarely see these models anymore. The little precision presses are more common.

The Reeves just needs to check the tension and grease the cam that changes the speed.

The gear box under the front pulley needs to be checked for gear oil levels.

Ron
 
rvieceli said:
The gear box under the front pulley needs to be checked for gear oil levels.

So is it like a British motorcycle that weeps incessantly, or does it just need to be topped off?

 
Cheese said:
rvieceli said:
The gear box under the front pulley needs to be checked for gear oil levels.

So is it like a British motorcycle that wheeps incessantly, or does it just need to be topped off?

Yes and yes.

There's a seal at the bottom of the gear box that the drive shaft for the quill goes through that weeps ever so slightly. To replace it requires more dis-asembly than I want to do since it works perfectly. I'm also not convinced that a new one wouldn't do the same thing,

Ron
 
rvieceli said:
Yes and yes.

There's a seal at the bottom of the gear box that the drive shaft for the quill goes through that weeps ever so slightly. To replace it requires more dis-asembly than I want to do since it works perfectly. I'm also not convinced that a new one wouldn't do the same thing,

Ron
From what I understood. The slight weeping seals like this was often a "feature" of these machine designs. The accumulating oil on the shaft can be wiped easily and allows the shaft as well as the contact surface of the seal to be kept clean from dust with very little effort.
 
mino said:
rvieceli said:
Cheese said:
Yes and yes.

There's a seal at the bottom of the gear box that the drive shaft for the quill goes through that weeps ever so slightly. To replace it requires more dis-asembly than I want to do since it works perfectly. I'm also not convinced that a new one wouldn't do the same thing,

Ron, you're probably right...installing a new o'ring will probably still allow it to leak. I had the same issue on the tachometer drive cable and the only solution was for me to machine the housing so I could install a double lip seal, which I did...hasn't leaked in years.  [big grin]

From what I understood. The slight weeping seals like this was often a "feature" of these machine designs. The accumulating oil on the shaft can be wiped easily and allows the shaft as well as the contact surface of the seal to be kept clean from dust with very little effort.

Now that's funny...spoken like a true British motorcycle manufacturer.  [big grin]
 
"From what I understood. The slight weeping seals like this was often a "feature" of these machine designs. The accumulating oil on the shaft can be wiped easily and allows the shaft as well as the contact surface of the seal to be kept clean from dust with very little effort."

Why is it this is looked upon with reverence when it's a Brit Bike, but when an older Harley drips oil from the chain oiler (by design) it a POC ?  [big grin]

I turned mine off on my 1980 Low Rider but it was there if you needed it and a hold over from some of their early bikes.
 
A lifetime ago I was an owner/operator contracted to Mayflower Transit, the moving company. When we bought the Chevy road tractor it had a 238 Detroit Diesel inline 6 engine. As we picked it up, the head mechanic came out and said " If it doesn't leak oil, bring it back and we'll fix it!

Was fine when running down the road but when you let it idle, there was a slight oil drip.

Ron
 
"If it doesn't leak oil, bring it back and we'll fix it!"

LOL  [big grin]
 
Well, supposedly it's on the truck and heading my way.

Should be here some time next week. Couldn't find a
Vulcan as I said so had to settle for the Voyager.

Still disappointed the parts to perform the upgrade are not
available. But maybe I will come across them someday.
 
Bob D. said:
Still disappointed the parts to perform the upgrade are not
available. But maybe I will come across them someday.

Ya, I'm with you on this one.  [sad]

Interestingly enough, NOVA lists the same headstock assembly for both versions...#8338055. However, they list different spindle tapers, MT3 for Vulcan & MT2 for Voyager, but the spindles are part of the headstock assembly.  [huh]  Maybe just a misprint in the catalog?

At any rate, the drill press table is larger on the Voyager by about 2" in each direction.
 
Yes, the only other piece is the autofeed.

Even if I had no interest in metalwork I would want the #3 MT and ability to use a collet chuck over the #2.
From what I have heard the bearings are more robust on the Vulcan and who wouldn't want that?

Just make one model with the better headstock assembly and offer a choice of table when ordering. There
are so few part differences I don't understand why they dropped this.

Added link to this 3 part video series but it's moot since the parts are no longer available.
 
Bob D. said:
Just make one model with the better headstock assembly and offer a choice of table when ordering. There
are so few part differences I don't understand why they dropped this.

Added link to this 3 part video series but it's moot since the parts are no longer available.


Thanks for posting that Bob...one mystery solved, the head stock assembly IS different so the part numbers should be different.  [tongue]

That's a HUGE difference in bearing choice with the substitution of angular contact ball bearings for the standard ball bearings. That alone could account for the 4X reduction in runout as angular contact bearings are usually more precise because of their nature.

And as you mentioned in an earlier post, who wouldn't want less runout on a drill press?

Now comes the difficult items to reproduce, the quill with MT3 taper and the ER32 collet system.  [crying] [mad]

Like you, I can't imagine why they'd discontinue the Vulcan option when so few extra parts are involved. I'd imagine there'd be many wood workers that would want the extra precision, the extra stiffness and the ability to use MT3 chucks.
 
Well, that was unexpected. I ordered the accessory fence when I bought the Voyager. The fence showed up today (Sunday no less) but the DP itself is still at least 10 days out.

It is en route, I got a message from Estes Express saying it should arrive in North Jersey on the 4th or 5th and to expect a call to coordinate delivery some time after that.
 
What do you all think about the Nova Viking benchtop drill press? Looking at my needs and getting sucked into the Nova thing with all the posts I decided I really only need a benchtop drill press. I prefer to keep the top of the benches clean but I currently have that craftsman benchtop on the benchtop! Doh, so I wouldn't lose any space that isn't currently used. The crappy one I have now would be gone. So in comes benchtop searches. I like the Jet but the Nova certainly has a following and seems well made. Thanks for any additional comments and thanks to whoever pointed this out to me earlier.
 
Can't speak to the Viking as I have not seen it in person but it would be worth a hard look I think.

Compared to the Voyager it is a lot less money. There is a floor model of the Viking if you weren't aware.

Viking has most of the features of the Voyager, but also has a laser guide and a work light built in which
the Voyager that costs ~$800US more than the Viking does not have.

Auto stop on set depth, auto start, 1HP direct drive and no belts for speed changes. It is an upgrade over a belt drive DP.

The Voyager is big. It will take up some  floor space. For me it is about twice as much as my old Craftsman 15-1/2" DP.
The table at 16 x 16 inches is about 8 inches wider than my old DP. The base is ~17"x22". The table and the base on the Viking floor model appear to be smaller. And for the benchtop model of course that's a different animal.
 

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Since the Clausing DP was brought up here and there was some interest expressed in them I thought I would mention that a Clausing Model 1764 in good condition that just popped up on Craigslist in Linden, NJ a couple days ago. I know nothing about it or the seller just happened upon the ad. The photos look like it's been refurbished and ready to go to work.
 

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