driving power of festool vs. bosch
- Thread starter riles
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AlexThePalex
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riles said:
I don't know which type of Bosch drills you've been using. The Festools pack quite some power for their size, but they are outmatched by far by the type of current Bosch drills like in the pic below.
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riles said:
In my experience Festool's drills have prodigious torque. I don't really understand what "grk" means, but I'm guessing a lag bolt is what I would call a "coach screw". The brushless motors on Festools can provide high torque even at low revs. They are also lower geared than most other drills, making them even more suited to heavy duty screwdriving than most.
I also use a Bosch drill similar to that depicted above, in 18v, but find it tends to overload the higher geared motor on really heavy duty driving, which temporarily kills the electronics (some sort of thermal protection system).
While better suited to higher speed applications: drilling with twist drills, spade bits etc., high torque loads like big SpeedBores and coach screws are just a bit too much for a Bosch Lithium drill.
Have you considered using a rattler? They're the bomb for heavy duty driving.
Ken Nagrod
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By "rattler", do you mean an impact driver? or the larger tool, an impact wrench?
GRK is a manufacturer.
The terms lag bolts and lag screws have become somewhat interchangeable, even though a bolt is a larger piece of hardware than a screw, so how 'bout a picture of your "coach screw"?
GRK is a manufacturer.
The terms lag bolts and lag screws have become somewhat interchangeable, even though a bolt is a larger piece of hardware than a screw, so how 'bout a picture of your "coach screw"?
Ken Nagrod
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Here we go...
WarnerConstCo.
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I run in the huge GRK RSS screws all the time with my C-12.
The only problem I have ever had with it when driving those screws is:
A) the drill will twist out of my hand when I buried the screw.
B) I got smacked in the head a couple times by it. [doh]
The only problem I have ever had with it when driving those screws is:
A) the drill will twist out of my hand when I buried the screw.
B) I got smacked in the head a couple times by it. [doh]
jmbfestool
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WarnerConstCo. said:
I know the feeling I was drilling a large hole and i was just holding drill normally and the drill got stuck and the batterie hit me on he side of my head right by my eye bloody well hurt i had to stop for abit.
This other time i was fitting a loft hatch and i hung over to unscrew this timber holding the loft hatch up while i fixed it well my wrist was twisted so the drill was like point up towards me. Any way I didn't realise i had the drill in drive so instead of unscrewing it drove the screw in more twisting my wrist wround because it was awakard any way and because it turned my hand i gripped tighter so I would not drop my drill but i pulled the trigger even more so it spun even more and I had to let go and drop the drill it hit the ladder first and landed on the carpet so it was a soft landing. It proper hurt my wrist.
Jmb
Jmb
Yeah, know that too, just a little less dramatic, as my T15 began to twist my hand inside a cubboard, whule being a little akward angle, and I got suprised of how powerfull it is, compared to my bosch GSR14,4ve-2 prof. (the good "old" 3 year old model).
Anyway a lag screw is called a French wood screw up here in the North.
I dipped some 8mm by 80mm ones in a liquid soap before driving them in a wall, but they snapped quite easy.
Cheers,
Jacques.
Anyway a lag screw is called a French wood screw up here in the North.
I dipped some 8mm by 80mm ones in a liquid soap before driving them in a wall, but they snapped quite easy.
Cheers,
Jacques.
For larger screws, I put my C-12 to the side and use a Milwaukee 1/2-inch drill. It isn't the power, so much as having that side handle to hold on to all that torque.
I was curious about ft-lbs in the C-12 and telephoned the Festool Santa Barbara facility. They told me a number in metrics and then I looked up the Imperial conversion. I can't remember, but it approached the power of the 1/2" Milwaukee. In the end, however, it is the ergonomics that are the deciding factor.
And isn't that why many of us have turned to the Festool routers, sanders and plunge saws? We can hang on to them, and control them.
Gary Curtis
I was curious about ft-lbs in the C-12 and telephoned the Festool Santa Barbara facility. They told me a number in metrics and then I looked up the Imperial conversion. I can't remember, but it approached the power of the 1/2" Milwaukee. In the end, however, it is the ergonomics that are the deciding factor.
And isn't that why many of us have turned to the Festool routers, sanders and plunge saws? We can hang on to them, and control them.
Gary Curtis
Ken Nagrod
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Jacques,
Sometimes you need to pre drill to the diameter of the shaft size of the lag (not the total diameter where threads are) to keep them from snapping. It definitely eases getting them in without straining the lag, the tool and you. Other times, you can just drive those babies in with an impact driver without any issues and move quickly onto the next. "Luck of the draw".
Sometimes you need to pre drill to the diameter of the shaft size of the lag (not the total diameter where threads are) to keep them from snapping. It definitely eases getting them in without straining the lag, the tool and you. Other times, you can just drive those babies in with an impact driver without any issues and move quickly onto the next. "Luck of the draw".
Ken Nagrod said:
Afraid I'm not so good with photographs, however someone has very kindly depicted one above; i.e. a "lag screw".
Having used these in the past, I'm surprised your Bosch tools haven't been suffering premature burnout! There's a lot of friction betwixt wood & screw on those fellows! I'm definitely no expert, but I assume you have to get both the drill diameter & depth just right to allow for their taper, and probably follow up with a relief hole for the parallel smooth part of the shank. Having tried to use a drill, I've usually resorted to a ratchet & socket to drive them fully home! Did I mention that I'm merely a mug amateur at such things?
By the term "rattler" I'm referring to an impact driver, usually cordless, that seem to be the ubiquitous tool these days in most construction trades. Most manufacturers make perfectly passable ones, with Japanese manufacturers totally dominating the market here in Oz, Makita being the clear favourite. Both M. & Hitachi-Koki are now making particularly good brushless models, favoured by roofers, plumbers and the like, who like you are driving lots of larger guage screws into timber.
Having been whacked in the head (especially the jaw) more times than I care to mention from injudicious use of drills in hard timber and steel, I would recommend you try a rattler. They just get on & do the job with little if any fuss, and remarkably little effort to hang on to. They make a hell of a racket, but for driving resistive loads they're unsurpassed. In fact, sometimes they're too good, overdriving or snapping the head off lighter guage screws without really trying. In my current trade (sparkie, fire & security) they are frowned upon as lacking the delicate touch needed for sensitive and delicate fittings & finishes, but for conduit work & general construction they're the duck's guts.
Ken Nagrod
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Impact drivers are very common in the U.S. True, they can over power some screws, like brass. Certain things weren't meant to be hammered while being turned as that is what those tools are doing. Makita is the only one I know of that makes a variable powered impact driver, known as the model BTD-144 over here. It can actually set the brass or other delicate screws on the lowest power.
I remember my friend at Makita telling me about the countries that they have a large presence in, like Australia.
I remember my friend at Makita telling me about the countries that they have a large presence in, like Australia.
For large screws, rough construction site work I prefer this
Bought some of them a few months ago and very happy with them.
22 V/2.6 Ah LiIO, quick charger, total weight 2.5 kg very well balanced - and brute force. Less weight than a 18 V Bosch Professional drill.
Bought some of them a few months ago and very happy with them.
22 V/2.6 Ah LiIO, quick charger, total weight 2.5 kg very well balanced - and brute force. Less weight than a 18 V Bosch Professional drill.
WarnerConstCo.
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There are just certain times one should use a drill with a cord.
Pete Pedisich
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MarkusS said:For large screws, rough construction site work I prefer this
Bought some of them a few months ago and very happy with them.
22 V/2.6 Ah LiIO, quick charger, total weight 2.5 kg very well balanced - and brute force. Less weight than a 18 V Bosch Professional drill.
MarkusS,
Do you mind me asking where that Hilti was manufactured? I wonder if the tools they sell in Germany are made in China or Mexico like some of the ones here are...
Every time I pick up a Hilti tool they always seen to get the ergonomic just right.
Pete
I've been doing a fare amount of renovation work lately which includes driving in 5/16 GRK screw/lags up to 6 inches long
and have been very happy with the SID 144-A Cordless Impact Driver by Hilti.
I have the Festool C12 and once you go "impact" for certain things, there is no turning back, esp for large screws/lags.
It has two speed/torque settings and the lithium ion batteries have a gauge on them so you know the juice level you have at any given time.
The chargers will accommodate the Hilti - 14 volt, 18 volt and 36 volt batteries as well.
And they hold their charges very well.
Ergonomically they fit very well and it even has a 3 point LED light inset into it.
When I did research into this before buying a powerful Impact driver I would have in a flash bought the Festool Model but they are a little late to the party as yet.
BTW I also have the Makita 18 volt impact and the Bosh nicad version and there is no comparison.
I have more to say on all this but I gotta get going at the moment.
cheers,
Roger
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and have been very happy with the SID 144-A Cordless Impact Driver by Hilti.
I have the Festool C12 and once you go "impact" for certain things, there is no turning back, esp for large screws/lags.
It has two speed/torque settings and the lithium ion batteries have a gauge on them so you know the juice level you have at any given time.
The chargers will accommodate the Hilti - 14 volt, 18 volt and 36 volt batteries as well.
And they hold their charges very well.
Ergonomically they fit very well and it even has a 3 point LED light inset into it.
When I did research into this before buying a powerful Impact driver I would have in a flash bought the Festool Model but they are a little late to the party as yet.
BTW I also have the Makita 18 volt impact and the Bosh nicad version and there is no comparison.
I have more to say on all this but I gotta get going at the moment.
cheers,
Roger
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