Drop leaf table repair?

Acrobat

Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2008
Messages
471
Hi, I am doing a drop leaf table repair a friend has given me to try fix. The tops' boards were warping and have come apart. I have unscrewed all the fittings and removed the top- in about 8 pieces across. I am in the process of re-gluing these now. I had to joint the edges on each mating piece - a 1mm off each touching edge. I will leave the edges where the drop leaf sides fit as they are so it's the inner boards I am doing. The table is oval with a profile all around the outside. Now of course when I re-glue, they now longer match the outside profile as each board is shorter in width so I will next need to re-route a complete profile so it will all match smoothly when complete.
1: How do I go about achieving this? If I use a bearing bit will it not simply follow the existing mismatching profile? Do I need to create a new template and place it over it for the router to follow?
2: Whats the best way to secure the table top to the apron-leg base? It has screws up through the underside of the apron into the underside of the table top. Do I follow and simply replace the screws again? I have read screwing boards down can result in splitting as the boards may swell or contract over time.
Thanks
[unsure]
 
Photos would help but after reading your question a few times, here's some thoughts...

For attaching the top to the legs, you might use figure-8 connectors like these - Use a Forstner bit to drop the connectors into the rails at the top of the legs.  The design allows movement for the wooden top and should prevent it from splitting...

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/159303/Desk-Top-Fig-8-Fastener-10p.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAiA3aW2BRCD_cOo5oCFuUMSJADiIMILYm2KuPmZL-wKyGCVuNQ8jOy6PLJyPfMTJ0AFDTYsKhoCIgfw_wcB

For matching the new oval on the narrow top, you might clamp up the top with it laying on a piece of plywood and mark the outside edges and then use a compass to set in a consistent distance - or use a curved stick to match the curve on each of the four corners by connecting the points around the oval, maybe 1/8 or 1/4" in from the old top size depending on how much material you need to remove.  Cut to that line with a jigsaw and then use a sander to smooth the curve and straight sides to the line.

That pattern with a bearing guided straight bit would let you recut the top.  Then you could route with your bearing guided profile with the new cut.

 
Yeah, I will try put some photos up tonight when I finish work. I'll have another think on your suggestions.
thanks
 
If you are only removing a mm slice you may find that the mismatch is small enough to be corrected with sanding only.
 
Back
Top