dull blade

[HowardH]

This may seem simple but what's the best way to know if your TS blade is getting dull?  I put a new one on fairly recently and cut quite a bit of 5/4 composite decking material.  Towards the end of the project, I noticed the rate of cut had slowed down considerably and I could tell the saw was having trouble getting through the last inch or two.  There's no grain to this kind of material and it's really mostly plastic/resin.  I'm taking two of them down to my local blade sharpener.  Generally speaking, I can't imagine you can tell visually unless it starts to burn the material.  Would composite decking dull a blade that quickly? I heard Ipe and the like can really dull a blade fast. 

 

[Naildrivingman]

If you are using the wood blade to cut composite, I expect that it will dull rather quickly.  I would recommend using the plastic/laminate blade for these purposes, but I have no experience to prove my point, simply a gut reaction to your question.

RE sharpening, I would make absolutely sure that the company you choose to sharpen the blade can bring it back to Festool standards.  Many companies say they can sharpen blades, but I've been burned a few times by those who say they can, but really can't.

 

[Holmz]

If you are using the wood blade to cut composite, I expect that it will dull rather quickly.  I would recommend using the plastic/laminate blade for these purposes, but I have no experience to prove my point, simply a gut reaction to your question.

RE sharpening, I would make absolutely sure that the company you choose to sharpen the blade can bring it back to Festool standards.  Many companies say they can sharpen blades, but I've been burned a few times by those who say they can, but really can't.

Which do you recommend?, or which do you choose avoid?

 

[Cheese]

1...I would recommend using the plastic/laminate blade for these purposes, but I have no experience to prove my point, simply a gut reaction to your question.

2...RE sharpening, I would make absolutely sure that the company you choose to sharpen the blade can bring it back to Festool standards.  Many companies say they can sharpen blades, but I've been burned a few times by those who say they can, but really can't.

1...I'd agree, I've used Forrest plastic blades in the past for cutting plastics and have been very happy with the results. I have not cut plastics/composites with Festool saws, but when I do, I will try a Festool blade made for the task.

2...I've used a local blade sharpener for sharpening saw blades for corded saws and that seemed to work well, however when I used the same sharpener for cordless equipment blades, the results were mixed. Not real happy with the results.
I'd suggest sending them directly to Leitz. Leitz manufacturers the blades for Festool.
http://www.leitztooling.com/locations.htm
http://www.leitztooling.com/sharpening-services.htm

 

[AJCruise]

If you're cutting composite,or any resinous lumber, there may well be a build up of material stuck to the blade. This gives the impression that that the blade has dulled somewhat.
I have the triple chip blades for the TS and Kapex, and use them on laminate floors and HPL worktops etc.
Try cleaning the blades with a proprietary product, checking the sides and face of the teeth for 'baked on' material, making sure not to use metallic utensils.
You might be able to do this a few times before having to send them in for sharpening.
Hope this helps.
Regards, Alan

 

[Naildrivingman]

If you are using the wood blade to cut composite, I expect that it will dull rather quickly.  I would recommend using the plastic/laminate blade for these purposes, but I have no experience to prove my point, simply a gut reaction to your question.

RE sharpening, I would make absolutely sure that the company you choose to sharpen the blade can bring it back to Festool standards.  Many companies say they can sharpen blades, but I've been burned a few times by those who say they can, but really can't.

Which do you recommend?, or which do you choose avoid?

Here is a US link to the blade that is designed for dense "grainless" material.
http://www.toolnut.com/festool/fest...-blade-for-ts-75-plunge-cut-saw-60-tooth.html

Cheeses' post on sending the blade to Leitz is the best, although for some it may be prohibitive because of shipping. I think careful research of local or regional sharpening vendors would reveal a suitable alternative, but I stand with Cheese that the only way to know the blade is absolutely correct is to send it back to the source.

 

[Naildrivingman]

If you're cutting composite,or any resinous lumber, there may well be a build up of material stuck to the blade. This gives the impression that that the blade has dulled somewhat.
I have the triple chip blades for the TS and Kapex, and use them on laminate floors and HPL worktops etc.
Try cleaning the blades with a proprietary product, checking the sides and face of the teeth for 'baked on' material, making sure not to use metallic utensils.
You might be able to do this a few times before having to send them in for sharpening.
Hope this helps.
Regards, Alan

Another valid point. I've used a blade and bit cleaner in the past that does a great job, but thanks to US EPA laws it is no longer produced. I've also used oven cleaner, but do not allow it to reside on the blade too long as it can pit the surface.  Spray on and wipe off after 15-20 seconds, repeat as/if necessary.  Once you've achieved the visual result you desire, thoroughly bath the blade in denatured alcohol (to neutralize the cleaner), then wipe down with a light oil and wrap in newspaper to absorb excess oil.

 

[Poindexter]

If you're cutting composite,or any resinous lumber, there may well be a build up of material stuck to the blade. This gives the impression that that the blade has dulled somewhat.

Agreed.  I was told that 90% of blades sent in for sharpening aren't dull; they just need a cleaning.  I like to do a quick spray of some blade cleaner and hit the teeth with a hard brush when I feel like a blade isn't cutting like it should.  This stuff is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/CMT-Formula-...hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1497181112&sr=1-1&keywords=saw+blade+cleaner

Next would be a full soaking in something like this: https://www.rockler.com/router-bit-and-saw-blade-cleaning-kit and then brushing the teeth to loosen any of the crud.  I'm always surprised at the amount of stuff that brushes off after a good cleaning.

 

[Birdhunter]

I cut a lot of composition decking boards for a project. I used both a Kapex and my SawStop. Festool blade in the Kapex and a Forrest blade in the SawStop. I could tell the Forrest blade was dull as I had to push harder than usual to make a cot. The blade wasn't dirty. The teeth were shiny and had no buildup anywhere on the blade. The blade had been sharpened twice by Forrest so trashed it. The kerf was already less than 1/8". The Kapex blade still seems to cut smoothly. When it is dull, I'll probably just replace it.

 

[Cheese]

As far as a blade cleaner goes, like others have suggested, I've used CMT cleaner, (just bought another bottle yesterday) the Rockler cleaner and Simple Green. I've had satisfactory results from all of them...didn't really notice any differences.

Just make sure that after soaking the blade, you gently scrub the blade with a BRASS bristled brush. Just soaking will not remove all the gunk/resin.

 

[HowardH]

I looked at the blade I used on the composite and the teeth are definitely covered with the resin.  I'll have to clean it and then test on some wood.  However, I'll get a plastic/laminate blade for next composite project.