Jesus Aleman
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- Nov 12, 2008
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Hi, does anyone has experience with either of these units. I am considering buying one and I am looking for user feedback.
Thanks.
JGA.
Thanks.
JGA.
Earlex HV3000 and HV5000
- Thread starter Jesus Aleman
- Start date
I have the Earlex 5000. I am new to spraying and wanted to start with a decent unit and gun that wouldn't break the bank. So far everything I have tried worked out very well and each time was my first time spraying. Just recently sprayed NGR dye. And I've been using ML Campbell waterbourne pre cat laquer with great results. Check Out The woodwhisperer, Marc Spagnoulo has a nice review on it... http://thewoodwhisperer.tv/
fidelfs
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- Mar 2, 2007
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- 523
Hi,
I have never read anything wrong about the Earlex 5000. All the reviews shows that the machine is excellent.
I was looking at that one 3 weeks ago but I found in Amazon the Fuji Mini Mite 4 stages (The earlex is 2 stages) for $526.96 and the mini mite 3 stages for $432.55.
I decided to pay a little more (the Earlex 5000 cost $339.99 at woodcraft) and I got the Mini Mite 4 stages. I tried to play safe going with a pro machine.
I am not a pro but I thought the difference is 186.97 for a proven machine was a strong argument. I found out the fuji is schedule to work for 10 years if you work every 4 - 5 days a week for a couple of hours. I don't know the longevity for the Earlex. So I decided for the Mini Mite 4.
Also, you can see some videos in HVLPSALES.com. That guy is a distributor for fuji and demonstrate how to use the machines and noise comparison. It is worth the time to watch those videos. Also you can attach a pressure pot to the fuji, I don't know if that is possible on the Earlex. With the pressure pot I can paint with latex direct from the can without thinning the paint.
In other words, I don't think you would go wrong with the Earlex but there are more options not as expensive as Turbine, Apollo, etc.
I have never read anything wrong about the Earlex 5000. All the reviews shows that the machine is excellent.
I was looking at that one 3 weeks ago but I found in Amazon the Fuji Mini Mite 4 stages (The earlex is 2 stages) for $526.96 and the mini mite 3 stages for $432.55.
I decided to pay a little more (the Earlex 5000 cost $339.99 at woodcraft) and I got the Mini Mite 4 stages. I tried to play safe going with a pro machine.
I am not a pro but I thought the difference is 186.97 for a proven machine was a strong argument. I found out the fuji is schedule to work for 10 years if you work every 4 - 5 days a week for a couple of hours. I don't know the longevity for the Earlex. So I decided for the Mini Mite 4.
Also, you can see some videos in HVLPSALES.com. That guy is a distributor for fuji and demonstrate how to use the machines and noise comparison. It is worth the time to watch those videos. Also you can attach a pressure pot to the fuji, I don't know if that is possible on the Earlex. With the pressure pot I can paint with latex direct from the can without thinning the paint.
In other words, I don't think you would go wrong with the Earlex but there are more options not as expensive as Turbine, Apollo, etc.
I got the 5000 at Woodcraft for $289 (and I had a $50 giftcard from Christmas.). My first project will be painting our kitchen cabinets. I report back after I've had a chance to play with it. All I've read and seen indicate it should be a good choice for my needs.
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If anyone is interested, I have the Earlex 5000 and just got around to spraying latex paint on an entryway cabinet I made for the wife. First time I've sprayed latex paint. I mixed in Flotrol and I have been really impressed with the results so far. Used the standard 2mm (0.08") tip. Way faster than painting by hand and clean up is very quick and easy. I would definitely recommend this sprayer to anyone wanting an inexpensive HVLP unit.
I read in another thread about water-based clear coats but I would welcome any other comments or advice, particularly with regard to spraying over latex paint. I would prefer to use a clear coat product that's readily available at local supplier. I've already taken way too long getting around to finishing this piece (according to the boss) [tongue] The goal is to finish it up over the weekend.
Thanks in advance.
I read in another thread about water-based clear coats but I would welcome any other comments or advice, particularly with regard to spraying over latex paint. I would prefer to use a clear coat product that's readily available at local supplier. I've already taken way too long getting around to finishing this piece (according to the boss) [tongue] The goal is to finish it up over the weekend.
Thanks in advance.
Jesus Aleman
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- Nov 12, 2008
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- 206
All, what kind of setup do you have as a spraying area? I haven't gotten around to buy the earlex (but I will). I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on a home made spray booth/exhaust system that can be used in a garage shop.
I am going water based all they way. However, I don't want the overspray to end up in the cars park on the driveway or at the neighbors. Suggestions welcomed. I am assuming that indoor spraying (as in the basement) is a no no. I currently finish and assemble in the storage room in the basement (all water based stuff, brushed).
Cheers.
I am going water based all they way. However, I don't want the overspray to end up in the cars park on the driveway or at the neighbors. Suggestions welcomed. I am assuming that indoor spraying (as in the basement) is a no no. I currently finish and assemble in the storage room in the basement (all water based stuff, brushed).
Cheers.
Shane, I have been studying water-based finishes and have seen rave reviews about General Finishes water-based finishes from a number of places. I found several demonstration videos on youTube and wood whisperer.
Jesus, I construct a temporary paint booth in my garage using 1 1/2" schedule 40 PVC. I use 90 degree elbows for the corners and "T" fittings for the risers. I cut the wall frame pieces to 10' lenghts and the riser pieces to 8'. The connections are simply press-fit together so the whole thing can be disassembled. When the frame is assembled, it creates a frame that is about 10' wide x 10' long x 8' wide. I cover the "ceiling" with clear plastic sheeting that comes in rolls from one of the "big box" stores and attach it with blue tape. I then wrap the walls of the frame with the plastic sheeting and attach it with blue tape.
The floor of the paint booth is covered with scribing felt purchased from a local flooring company. It comes in 100' rolls, 36" wide. Roll it out on the floor and tape the seems together. The scribing felt helps absorb the paint overspray so you don't track much out of the booth.
The whole system is modular. If you need a bigger booth, get some more "T" fittings and make the booth 10' x 20', or 10' x 30', or 20' x 20', whatever meets your need.
I have sprayed Ben Moore Satin Impervo on painted cabinets and interior doors with a Graco airless and polyurethane (both oil-based and water-based) with a Wagner FineCoat 2000 (an older unit much like the Earlex 5000 or the little unit Rockler sells). I always wear a 3M respirator, cloth painter's hood, heavy rubber chemical gloves from Lowes, hospital-type booties over my shoes with a paint-dedicated long sleeve T-shirt and jeans. The only paint material I ever get on me is the bit of overspray that lands around my eyes. A little (very little) petroleum jelly around the eyes before painting makes for easy clean up when you're done.
Spraying enamel, poly, or water-based, and dressed in proper clothing and respirator, I have never found the need for exhaust ventilation from the booth. If you're taking air out of the booth, you risk bringing dust and contaminants in. I would certainly imagine you would need carefully planned ventilation if you are spraying lacquer of something more volatile. [eek]
I leave the painted/finished pieces in the booth until they are dry so they don't pick up any dust. The airless pump and paint are positioned outside the booth so they're not in the way and making it easier to clean up without contaminating the fresh paint or finish.
Jesus, I construct a temporary paint booth in my garage using 1 1/2" schedule 40 PVC. I use 90 degree elbows for the corners and "T" fittings for the risers. I cut the wall frame pieces to 10' lenghts and the riser pieces to 8'. The connections are simply press-fit together so the whole thing can be disassembled. When the frame is assembled, it creates a frame that is about 10' wide x 10' long x 8' wide. I cover the "ceiling" with clear plastic sheeting that comes in rolls from one of the "big box" stores and attach it with blue tape. I then wrap the walls of the frame with the plastic sheeting and attach it with blue tape.
The floor of the paint booth is covered with scribing felt purchased from a local flooring company. It comes in 100' rolls, 36" wide. Roll it out on the floor and tape the seems together. The scribing felt helps absorb the paint overspray so you don't track much out of the booth.
The whole system is modular. If you need a bigger booth, get some more "T" fittings and make the booth 10' x 20', or 10' x 30', or 20' x 20', whatever meets your need.
I have sprayed Ben Moore Satin Impervo on painted cabinets and interior doors with a Graco airless and polyurethane (both oil-based and water-based) with a Wagner FineCoat 2000 (an older unit much like the Earlex 5000 or the little unit Rockler sells). I always wear a 3M respirator, cloth painter's hood, heavy rubber chemical gloves from Lowes, hospital-type booties over my shoes with a paint-dedicated long sleeve T-shirt and jeans. The only paint material I ever get on me is the bit of overspray that lands around my eyes. A little (very little) petroleum jelly around the eyes before painting makes for easy clean up when you're done.
Spraying enamel, poly, or water-based, and dressed in proper clothing and respirator, I have never found the need for exhaust ventilation from the booth. If you're taking air out of the booth, you risk bringing dust and contaminants in. I would certainly imagine you would need carefully planned ventilation if you are spraying lacquer of something more volatile. [eek]
I leave the painted/finished pieces in the booth until they are dry so they don't pick up any dust. The airless pump and paint are positioned outside the booth so they're not in the way and making it easier to clean up without contaminating the fresh paint or finish.
Jesus Aleman
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- Nov 12, 2008
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- 206
Thanks. I'll amend my question. My main concern is where will the overspray will end up if I exhausted to the outside. Would it be dry by then and only be considered dust, or am I exhausting "wet" finish.
JGA.
JGA.
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- Jan 22, 2007
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A good respirator is a definite must. I wouldn't consider the over spray an issue with what I've experienced thus far.
If you're going to make a spray booth like the one that Joe linked to, beware that the turbine intake is on the bottom of this unit. I accidentally sat it on a tarp once and thought to myself "this thing isn't spraying as good as I remember". Then I realized that the tarp had gotten sucked up against the bottom of the unit and was preventing good air flow. [embarassed] So, if you have a sheet of plastic on the floor, just remember that.
Thanks for the feedback on clear coats. If anyone else has feedback, feel free to chime in.
If you're going to make a spray booth like the one that Joe linked to, beware that the turbine intake is on the bottom of this unit. I accidentally sat it on a tarp once and thought to myself "this thing isn't spraying as good as I remember". Then I realized that the tarp had gotten sucked up against the bottom of the unit and was preventing good air flow. [embarassed] So, if you have a sheet of plastic on the floor, just remember that.
Thanks for the feedback on clear coats. If anyone else has feedback, feel free to chime in.
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- Jan 22, 2007
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- 8,426
Out of curiosity, there hasn't been a lot of action in this thread. Do most of you guys spray, roll, brush, wipe-on, ... what?
Just got done spraying the final coat of paint. I picked up some of the General Finishes water based top coat this morning. So, I will probably (time permitting) spray that tomorrow. I'll report back with my impressions. Thanks again for the input.
Just got done spraying the final coat of paint. I picked up some of the General Finishes water based top coat this morning. So, I will probably (time permitting) spray that tomorrow. I'll report back with my impressions. Thanks again for the input.
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- Jul 8, 2007
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- 13,126
Sorry Shane,
I couldn't give advice on the equipment - I don't have one. Brush with Flotrol for me. Wipe on oil finishes. I don't have a dedicated finishing area or shop.
Peter
I couldn't give advice on the equipment - I don't have one. Brush with Flotrol for me. Wipe on oil finishes. I don't have a dedicated finishing area or shop.
Peter
It depends on the size of the product for me as to what method I use. Sometimes the clean up is not worth the effort to spray and mess up a lot of stuff for a 10 to 20 minute job. Also I am very cautious in wanting to dilute the paint, stain, finish for spraying and diminishing the chemical formula it was made with. This is especially true for paints. Diluting/thinning for spray purposes, breaks down the valuable acrylics needed for the final finish look as well as the protection you usually paint for in the first place. I can see from the thread that this is a hard question and decision for all of us
