Easy Systainer Labels

I did not know that Brother made a 1” wide label maker. It turns out that they also make a 1-1/2” wide printer/label maker. I’m not sure where you generate the copy for the label printer though.

They describe it in the Brother site. The pricing is direct from Brother and is likely the suggested retail price. I see these label makers heavily discounted.


And this site lists their commercial units (which can cost as much as $600.00). It also sells other brands. The name of the retailer (PtouchDirect) suggests it is an official Brother site, but I don’t think so.


Brother Ptouch Label Makers & P-touch Label Printers - PtouchDirect

Shop P-touchDirect.com for a complete selection of Brother Ptouch label makers and the best ptouch label makers for beginners and pros.
www.ptouchdirect.com www.ptouchdirect.com
 
I have the P-touch D610BT and love it. It's cordless which is way better than the corded model it replaced. It handles tapes from 6mm to 24mm wide and is capable of printing 7 lines of text on the 24mm wide tape. It's Blue tooth enabled which means you can design the label on a laptop and then print the label from the laptop. This avoids wasting a lot of label material while trying to optimize the label size.
1. I'm using it as I wire the garage, makes life a lot easier when you're running a bunch of different circuits.
2. Used the 6mm labels for electrical component identification and 12mm labels for wire identification.
3. An exterior label to identify active surge protection on the low voltage garden lighting box.
4. A switched outlet that's always hot on the top but actuates a sump pump on the bottom when needed. Labeling is far easier than trying to remember which is which... 😵‍💫

For each label the tape width, tape cut length, label colors and label name or symbols are all stored in memory so if I need to make another label, which I have on several occasions, just push the button.
 

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Cheese said:
I have the P-touch D610BT and love it. It's cordless which is way better than the corded model it replaced. It handles tapes from 6mm to 24mm wide and is capable of printing 7 lines of text on the 24mm wide tape. It's Blue tooth enabled which means you can design the label on a laptop and then print the label from the laptop. This avoids wasting a lot of label material while trying to optimize the label size.
1. I'm using it as I wire the garage, makes life a lot easier when you're running a bunch of different circuits.
2. Used the 6mm labels for electrical component identification and 12mm labels for wire identification.
3. An exterior label to identify active surge protection on the low voltage garden lighting box.
4. A switched outlet that's always hot on the top but actuates a sump pump on the bottom when needed. Labeling is far easier than trying to remember which is which... 😵‍💫

For each label the tape width, tape cut length, label colors and label name or symbols are all stored in memory so if I need to make another label, which I have on several occasions, just push the button.
Click to expand...
Mine came with a cord, but allowed batteries (AAA, I think). I usually use the batteries. They seem to last a long time.
 
I have several electronic items that use multiples of AA batteries. The Brother D610BT uses 6 of them and a Fluke 289 also uses 6 AA batteries. For these large draw items I install rechargeable Eneloop Pro batteries as they have a capacity rating that is very similar to a standard Duracell AA battery. Duracell AA = 2850 mAh vs Eneloop Pro AA = 2500 mAh. If I run out of power in the middle of a project, I just partially recharge the batteries and am up and running in less than an hour. No dropping everything and leaving the house to go to the store for new batteries.
 
Cheese said:
For these large draw items I install rechargeable Eneloop Pro batteries as they have a capacity rating that is very similar to a standard Duracell AA battery.
Click to expand...
The self-discharge of the -Pro is slightly higher than the normal ones. In the earlier generations this gap was bigger than it is with currently sold Eneloops.

Cheese said:
and a Fluke 289 also uses 6 AA batteries.
Click to expand...
I have a Fluke 1664 FC; that one takes 6 AA's too. My sets of six rotate through a Nikon SD-8a too.
 
This may come off as wildly unprofessional, but take it easy on me it's my first post on FOG. I use a sharpie, straight on the case. /ducks and runs for cover
 
I read once what a home organizer professional said: “The most important organization tool you can own is a label maker.”

I got a label maker later that week. I use it regularly, not only do the labels tell me what is in the containers, it prompts me to put things in the right container. Kind of like someone looking over my shoulder.

In any case, regardless of how you label your Systainer, I recommend that you have a label maker in your shop/house. And the Brother units are easy to use and do a nice job.
 
Many times, I'm one-step removed from a Sharpie on the case: a PostIt in Sharpie taped to the front because I know I'll change my mind next week.

The labels @peter halle got for the FOG-tainers have lasted forever with no peeling. My thing with semi-permanent labeling is that I keep the Systainers for the unlikely day when I sell a tool since I'd want to put it back into its original Systainers. All the drill Systainers have been repurposed with their insert stowed in the attic.

I do like the non-classic Systainers with the card slot. I do want to create cards for all of mine. I was going to buy the card protector inserts, but @Crazyraceguy said they were horrible to see through. So I tried my one protector: yup, unless it presses against the card, it's like a censor filter.

Anyone know if there's a card holder that adheres well to the Systainers? The ones I did find once were so flimsy that they deformed in storage. Granted, I'm in Arizona about 10' from the sun.
 
PaulMarcel said:
I do like the non-classic Systainers with the card slot. I do want to create cards for all of mine. I was going to buy the card protector inserts, but @Crazyraceguy said they were horrible to see through. So I tried my one protector: yup, unless it presses against the card, it's like a censor filter.
Click to expand...
Don't mess with card protectors. You can buy white plastic cards in the same size as the original Festool cards. They are very cheap.

You can write directly on the cards with a sharpie for temporary labeling. It can't be wiped away completely, even when using alcohol, but they have two sides, so they can be used at least twice before you throw them away. Or you can glue a label to them.

If you move the contents of a systainer to another systainer, you just let the card follow the contents. If you change the contents, you just change the card.

As I wrote above, the label from a 50x80 mm label printer also fits perfectly on the cards.
 
Allano said:
Don't mess with card protectors. You can buy white plastic cards in the same size as the original Festool cards. They are very cheap.

You can write directly on the cards with a sharpie for temporary labeling. It can't be wiped away completely, even when using alcohol, but they have two sides, so they can be used at least twice before you throw them away. Or you can glue a label to them.

If you move the contents of a systainer to another systainer, you just let the card follow the contents. If you change the contents, you just change the card.

As I wrote above, the label from a 50x80 mm label printer also fits perfectly on the cards.
Click to expand...
You just reminded me that I have a deck of Dry-Erase 'cards' in my desk. They should be the same size as the cards for the Systainer... gonna give it a try in the morning... thanks! Now I do have some artwork for the plumbing and electrical boxes, but that's another story
 
I don't have that problem with the card protectors obscuring the labels behind them. But I do take care to put them in with the concave side outward so they press against the label. I can make a photo of it when I am back home again to show how readable the labels are with the protectors in front.

I just make labels in a word processor and print them on a color laserprinter. I think the design was based on the original Festool labels, I am almost sure of it. I have made templates for all the brands I use, so now it is just a question of pasting a photo and adding some text. That takes just a few minutes. Works great for me.

But I have been thinking of getting blank creditcard-sized cards and self-adhesive printer paper for outdoor use. Then I can print the labels and just stick them to the cards. A quick swipe with a knife along the edges and you're good to go. I've been using those outdoor self-adhesive papers for a long time now and they will last for ages. My first-aid systainers have had them for at least 7 years and they have shown no sign of pealing or fading.

[Edit] Hmmm, weird. It seems I cannot upload the PNG example of one of my labels...

[Edit] OK, JPG does work. No idea why a standard format like PNG is not accepted...
 

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Last edited:
Allano said:
Don't mess with card protectors. You can buy white plastic cards in the same size as the original Festool cards. They are very cheap.

You can write directly on the cards with a sharpie for temporary labeling. It can't be wiped away completely, even when using alcohol, but they have two sides, so they can be used at least twice before you throw them away. Or you can glue a label to them.

If you move the contents of a systainer to another systainer, you just let the card follow the contents. If you change the contents, you just change the card.

As I wrote above, the label from a 50x80 mm label printer also fits perfectly on the cards.
Click to expand...
I’m in the Sharpie on Post It camp but worming upgrading. Where do you by the white plastic cards that fit?
 
hdv said:
I don't have that problem with the card protectors obscuring the labels behind them. But I do take care to put them in with the concave side outward so they press against the label. I can make a photo of it when I am back home again to show how readable the labels are with the protectors in front.

I just make labels in a word processor and print them on a color laserprinter. I think the design was based on the original Festool labels, I am almost sure of it. I have made templates for all the brands I use, so now it is just a question of pasting a photo and adding some text. That takes just a few minutes. Works great for me.

But I have been thinking of getting blank creditcard-sized cards and self-adhesive printer paper for outdoor use. Then I can print the labels and just stick them to the cards. A quick swipe with a knife along the edges and you're good to go. I've been using those outdoor self-adhesive papers for a long time now and they will last for ages. My first-aid systainers have had them for at least 7 years and they have shown no sign of pealing or fading.

[Edit] Hmmm, weird. It seems I cannot upload the PNG example of one of my labels...

[Edit] OK, JPG does work. No idea why a standard format like PNG is not accepted...
Click to expand...
Credit card blanks are available from many sources:


3M Adhesive Transfer Tape is the adhesive that comes on tape, but without the actual tape. It is applied with an adhesive transfer gun (very fast and easy) or by hand (easy, but not as fast).

It comes in regular stick or heavy duty stick.

Tip: If you need an extra strong hold, or if the surface is not 100% smooth, try applying two layers of the adhesive.

NOTE: Unlike the double faced tape, the adhesive can be more difficult to remove. Solvents are the only thing that seems to work well. 3M sells a special solvent for that purpose.

Try the manual applied version to start:

www.americanframe.com

Transfer Tape for Hand Application

Transfer Tape is used for mounting photos, artwork, backing paper and similar materials where two adhesive surfaces are required. Made by 3M Scotch. Not for use with the ATG 700 Adhesive Applicator, F6060. Package contains one roll measuring 0.5" x 180' with a 3" core.#html-body...
www.americanframe.com www.americanframe.com

Other sources:

 
I buy the anodised aluminium business cards off Temu and laser engrave them for my systainer labels. They just need about 0.5mm shaved off one end to be a perfect fit.
 
Packard said:
Credit card blanks are available from many sources:


3M Adhesive Transfer Tape is the adhesive that comes on tape, but without the actual tape. It is applied with an adhesive transfer gun (very fast and easy) or by hand (easy, but not as fast).

It comes in regular stick or heavy duty stick.

Tip: If you need an extra strong hold, or if the surface is not 100% smooth, try applying two layers of the adhesive.

NOTE: Unlike the double faced tape, the adhesive can be more difficult to remove. Solvents are the only thing that seems to work well. 3M sells a special solvent for that purpose.

Try the manual applied version to start:

www.americanframe.com

Transfer Tape for Hand Application

Transfer Tape is used for mounting photos, artwork, backing paper and similar materials where two adhesive surfaces are required. Made by 3M Scotch. Not for use with the ATG 700 Adhesive Applicator, F6060. Package contains one roll measuring 0.5" x 180' with a 3" core.#html-body...
www.americanframe.com www.americanframe.com

Other sources:

Click to expand...

Take heed! The adhesive is insanely difficult to remove from those vinyl drafting table covers.
 
@Packard : I already have a good source for blank credit cards. We use them to make identifiers for our students and buy them in bulk. So no problem there. I should take a look when I am back home, because I don't remember the brand and article name of the self-adhesive printer sheets I use. I think it might have been Leitz.
 
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