Edge jointing a countertop with the TS75 (or TS55)

[tjbnwi]

He,s across the pond, he may mean a TS plate in the CMS.

I agree, the TS on a track is the way to go. Saw follows a straight track instead of any flaw in the board following the fence.

Tom

 

[jeep jake]

Thats killer did you use a domino, or anything when you did the glue up?

 

[semenza]

  In the first picture of the island top I used dominos in some places. Only where I knew the face and edge of the cuts was square. And the dominos were mostly just to help keep it together while getting clamps on. I did that glue up in three stages (two parts , then put the two together) just to keep it easier to manage.  If the faces  and edges are not perfectly square , especially on thick lumber, the dominos can actually mess up the alignment.

    The countertop shown in the other two pictures does not have dominos. Everything was really fitting nicely and I was able to put all the clamps on the top side. So I just tipped the boards up on edge , put wax paper on the table, glue on the edges, tipped them back down , pushed them together , and clamped.  I tightened the clamps evenly and slowly making sure they didn't force boards up or down with the slippery glue in between.  None came out more than  1/32" high or low and only in a couple spots. These particular boards were quite good to start with.

Seth

 

[duburban]

thats a really interesting and important point. if you do domino or other joint the jointed edge must be square to your reference edge. i can't imagine a situation where it would be that far out buts its totally possible.

i'm curious about the next phase of this process, flattening the top. i have a ro150 which is what i would grab first in this situation along with a straight edge but i noticed your power plane on the table top. i'm keeping my eyes out for a good looking used joining plane because i want to learn that hand tool technique for flattening surfaces too large for machines, although i do have access to a wide belt sander if needed.

 

[semenza]

On the second countertop I just used the RO150 for flattening.  On the island top I started with the power plane because some of the boards were quite a bit high/low in places. The plane  made it faster and easier to get the larger differences knocked down to sanding range. Then I switched to the RO150 to finish flattening. The to the ETS150 /5  /3 to finish sand.  That is one of the cool things about jointing with the saw. You can have the edges fit together perfectly but still have boards that are not aligned or flat to each other. I should have taken a picture of the board ends to show misalignment and twist .....  maybe next  time?

Seth

 

[Tinker]

The photos don't move,  [wink] but there are enough that you can get the idea.

http://legacy.woodshopdemos.com/fes-53.htm

As John Lucas shows in the vid, One can edge joint using Seth's method with no longer space tha a few extra inches at each end of the boards being jointed.  Using a jointer to flatted the edges of the two boards (or multiple boards) one needs more than double the space of the end to end length of the lumber used.  In a small shop (like mine as a for instance), a lot of times, there is barely enough space to place any lumber to be ripped when clamping down to any bench.  There is absolutely no space to run any lumber over 6 or 7 feet in length over a jointer or table saw.

??? for Seth: Do you try to pull the twist out of boards being joined by tightening/drawing down with the screws.  It seems to me it would be better to just use the shims you show to stabilize the individual boards, plane and sand the top surface before setting up the TS 55/75 and rail.  Actually, I think that is what you are suggesting.
Tinker

 

[semenza]

No, you can't pull the twist out.  The boards just move back after taking the screws out.  Just use the shims to stabilize so that when the screws are driven they don't pull the twist or warp out.  If the boards are quite varied I height some planing before jointing may be necessary. Just depends on the lumber. Sometimes you can just do all the planing after jointing.

Seth

 

[semenza]

  One additional note upon rereading this. Once in a while it takes two jointing passes to get a good result. This is usually due to needing to take more than one kerf width to bring the boards together. In other words there is a bend from end to end of the board that creates a gap between them of more than the blade thickness. If that is the case just make a jointing cut, move then closer and repeat.

Seth

 

[Mr Heavy]

My jointer (planer as we say on this side of the pond) is a crappy not properly-adjustable SIP model that dishes everything even after hours of setting up, so I think this is a marvellous technique to get the best possible board lay-up.

Instead of screwing and/or using masking tape, what I have done on the few occasions I've tried this is to glue up the boards BEFORE making the cut. Simplest solution I've got. No holes and absolutely no chance of boards moving with reasonable care. Hope it's useful to somebody else.

 

[Kev]

I'm hoping people clearly understand the distinction when it comes to clamping boards down and NOT together.

 

[semenza]

Instead of screwing and/or using masking tape, what I have done on the few occasions I've tried this is to glue up the boards BEFORE making the cut. Simplest solution I've got. No holes and absolutely no chance of boards moving with reasonable care. Hope it's useful to somebody else.

  OK, you got me on this one ....... how do you glue before cutting the edges where the glue will go?  I think we are talking about different things?

Seth

 

[Tinker]

I have just finished a table top where I had to join boards about 6 ft in length and different widths.  I had a slight twist n one of the boards and one had a dip in one end.  I could only set up on my MFT/3 so an overhang was involved.  I have a clamping stand that i set up to hold one end overhanging the MFT.  I set up my saw to cut perfectly square (after much trial and error) Using a rail and my TS 55, I was able to make straight and square cits where the lumber was absolutely straight as far as up and down.  I glued the top in two sections as it needs to be collapsable.  After each section was glued, I then planed any surface discrepancies using my LN 12 scraper plane with toothed blade.  i tried planing with my jack plane, but found the quickest and by far, the easiest method was using the scraper with toothed blade.  I managed to get the boards what i thought perfectly flat but when I finally was able to set the top on the base pedestal, one of the halves had a very slight twist.  I can do a little planing of one pedestal and it will fit perfectly.  I got most of it sorted out last nite.  Today, i plan to finish, but after some thought, I may jet leave it for now.  the first use of the table will be as picnic table in three weeks.  After that, the table will be out of use while the owners go on a month or two trip.  i will have plenty of time to straighten that twist either by further planing of the top surface, or putting a dip in the pedestal.  I am now thinking a better solution will be to plane and refinish the top surface.

I never did a glue up on such large pieces before and was surprised how close they came.  I know Seth suggested the Domino might be a hindrance in some cases.  For me, I blame the Domino for keeping everything lined up to near perfection. I got it last fall, but only just put it to use for this project.  It will get used a lot more in future. One half is dead on straight and level.  That was the first half.  The second half, passable but no cigar >>> yet.
Tinker

 

[demographic]

That's brilliant Seth, thanks for taking the time to show us.

It might make me do something with all that hardwood I have from a school demolition.