edgebanding with pressure sensitive adhesive.

[Packard]

I have always used heat-set edgebanding. 

I now see pressure-sensitive edgebanding from Fastcap.  All the Fastcap items I have used have been entirely satisfactory.

Has anyone used this stuff?  What are the pros and cons?

How hard is it to install and (most important) how well does it stick?
https://woodworker.com/1516x50-whit...28-315.asp?mc=128-315&utm_source=Woodworker's+Supply+Mailing+List&utm_campaign=14b9b17e51-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2022_02_23_05_37&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_8f23709dbb-14b9b17e51-23332637&ct=t(mct=edgebandingpolishes-2-24-22)&mc_cid=14b9b17e51&mc_eid=37f02f109f

 

[tsmi243]

I'm using some now, on kitchen cabinets.  Can't comment on longevity, but installation is a breeze.  Sort of. 

1. PRO- Adhesive seems REAL good.  A million times better than the peel n' stick from a home center.

2. CON- Adhesive also sticks real good to everything else.  After trimming, have a trash can with a bag in it handy, those curls WILL stick to everything they touch.  You can't just drop them into a bin.  You have to stick them to the inside of the trash bag, to get them to come off your hands.

3. PRO- The Fastcap tools are very nice to work with.  I got the roller, edge trimmer, corner sander, and the flush-cut pliers.  All fantastic.

4. CON- I tried using the MFK to flush up and deburr the edge.... but the stream of granulated adhesive flying off the cutter doesn't vacuum well.  God, what a mess.  Stick to hand tools.

5. PRO- It's pretty hard to screw up.  If you have an unskilled helper, you could have them doing it with good results in an hour or two. 

 

[Packard]

I have not used it, but the method we used for picture framing would also apply for the banding. 

1.  Cut to approximate length.
2.  Peel the release paper about 3/8" wide the length of the piece and fold back on itself.  The folded release paper will keep the adhesive away from the surface to be joined.
3.  Align the banding and then press down the exposed adhesive. 
4.  Grasp the folded edge and pull the release paper free from the banding.
5.  Press down and burnish banding.

We used this when applying pressure sensitive decorative paper to mat boards.  It works very well.  The big difference would be that the paper was far more flexible than the wood veneer.  You would probably have to grasp the release paper at the end of the cut piece. 

I will have to test this to make sure it works. 

I always trim with a 2" wide sharp chisel and then sand the edges at about a 20 degree angle. 

I am planning on refacing some golden oak cabinets.  I am making new doors which will be painted white. 

I can sand, fill, sand, prime, sand, + two coats of finish.  Or I can apply birch veneer and then just paint.  I am undecided.  The veneer would probably look better when painted.  It sounds like less work.

 

[afish]

I used it before and in addition to what has already been said the reason why I stopped using it is the edge s very sticky and while yes it is thin it attracts dirt with super natural powers and when used with white you get a very noticeable black line. 

 

[Packard]

I suppose I could wipe down the edges with mineral spirits, but it sounds like I will just paint the face frames. 

The red oak will require a shellac-based primer (BIN) and probably two coats to be sure that there is no bleed-through. Plus the grain filler, plus the two coats of paint.  It sounds like more work than building the new doors. 

I am switching from 1/2" overlay hinges to 1¼" overlay hinges.  So the exposed area will be far less visible.  But this is all hand work, and all either overhead or on my knees.  Both of which sound unappealing. 

When building the doors I am standing in a comfortable position. 

 

[Crazyraceguy]

We use it occasionally, mostly for oddly shaped parts that will not run through the big production machines. It serves that roll fairly well, but as mentioned, you are going to need some kind of solvent for cleaning the edges.
As tsmi243 said, routing is quite a mess. It can be done, but be aware of this.
Those hand trimmers that cut both sides at once are a very good idea too, it minimizes "movement" of the edging, but they don't deal with curves very well. It will grip tighter over time, but when first applied, the edging can/will pull toward the cutter if you cut from one side, especially if you cut straight forward, like pushing a chisel. If you cut both at once, this is eliminated.
Another way that seems to work well is to cut it with a "window scraper" type razor blade holder, but this is the method where you can't just push forward, it will pull the edging. However, if you skew the blade into the cut at about a 45 degree angle and take short strokes across the edge, it will curl across the surface and not pull the edging up into the cut. This pulling is mostly a problem after you have already cut one side, it can expose the core.

 

[Packard]

Thanks for the replies.

I am going to reface my honey oak cabinets.  I am building new doors but the face frames have to be painted.  My choices are

Veneer + prime + paint.

or

Sand + mineral spirits + grain filler + sand + primer + sand + paint.

At first, the veneer + paint seemed easier, but now I think I will go the grain filler + paint route.

I am switching from ½" overlay to 1¼" overlay so very little of the face frame will be exposed.  So maybe I am over-thinking this.  The doors will be poplar + mdf (shaker style).