mattbyington said:
[member=74278]Packard[/member] thanks for the tips!! Appreciate it!!
Matt
I did test the Polyshades over the black paint. The improved depth of black finish was subtle, and might have been a product of this not being a blind test. I knew which piece was coated with the Polyshades and which was just clear coated.
It certainly did not show any difference in the photos. So no sense posting images.
I tried two different Polyshades colors over the black (Lamp Black imitation milk paint from General Finishes).
The Lamp Black is a true black but on the cool side of the color wheel and the Polyshades Classic Black maintained that impression.
I also tried Espresso over the black. It still read as a true black, but with a distinctly warmer appearance when hit directly with a light source. In the shade, it was simply “black”.
In both cases I used gloss oil based poly. To degloss it, I used bees wax/carnauba wax and applied it with 0000 steel wool. If you think you might want to re-finish it in the future, don’t use wax. Instead use “wool oil” (oil for steel wool, not taken from sheep).
It is amusing to me that my spell checker has never heard of “carnauba” wax and flags it each time I type it.
I would note that Minwax is now labeling their oil based clear finishes as “warm”. It has always been so, but I think this is to distinguish from the water based poly finishes. The Espresso poly was noticeably warmer yet.
I suggest you make some samples first.
I like to wipe on oil based poly, and I dilute the poly 50/50 with mineral spirts. The new cans of oil based poly from Minwax warn against diluting.
An interesting experiment