Entry Cabinet - White Oak, with shoe storage and coat hooks

mattbyington

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Joined
Mar 11, 2018
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797
Not sure what to do with the cubbies yet!

Matt















[member=4358]derekcohen[/member] trying out the link thing!
 
Very nice!  I love the contrasting color!

What hardware did you use for the hidden hooks?
 
Thanks Matt I enjoy your builds and I know it’s sometimes a chore to post here great job.
 
[member=75217]squall_line[/member] thanks man! I used these:https://www.myknobs.com/pdp/siro-ha...m&utm_medium=temail&utm_campaign=order-status

(they come in 2 sizes, I got a few of both)

[member=75933]luvmytoolz[/member] thanks so much!

[member=61119]Sheik Maboutie[/member] thank you!!

[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] yeah! thanks!!

[member=41086]Vondawg[/member] thanks man I really appreciate it, it is a chore sometimes :) I want to! But it's not super convenient to upload photos. But love talking with y'all!

Matt
 
mattbyington said:


[member=4358]derekcohen[/member] trying out the link thing!

Good one Matt. Nice, clean work.

And I can tell that he has your hair colour! :)

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Very nice, and color-wise very similar to what I am planning for a similar project.

I would be interested in how well this stands up without any toe-kick.

I built other black cabinets and they show scuff marks fairly quickly.  I planned on adding toe-kicks, but you lose about 3” of space.  I’d hate to lose the space.  But I would hate to be constantly touching up the paint.

Only adults in my house, so less abuse than some households. My friend’s kids stand on the seat to get at the upper cabinets.  So I suspect he will be refinishing on a one or two year cycle. 

I will be using cane center panels on maple doors.

Similar to this, but in maple and black paint.  Toe-kick or paint planned.  But if you get good wear out of this, I might change my mind.

3w5BNYb.jpeg
 
[member=76927]Muttley000[/member] thank you!

[member=4358]derekcohen[/member] hahaha I know. He was climbing all over 'em!!

[member=74278]Packard[/member] , I too share your concern. It does have some wear on it. We have a toddler. So I knew it was coming. It's just painted so I can always touch the paint up. It's at the entry. TBH I am trying not to worry about it too much. So far - it's not terrible - just minor scuff marks where my family kicks the drawer closed, ha!

Matt
 
I’ve had good luck putting a clear top coat over black.  It substantially adds to the durability of the finish.

However, do not use semi-gloss or matte finish clear as the deglossing agent will turn the black to gray.

If you want to degloss the clear, rub it with 0000 Steel wool lubricated with either wax (very nice, and feels luxurious—but makes future refinishes difficult) or “wool oil”, which is easier to clean off.

In the next few days I will be testing Minwax’s Polyshades (black) over black paint.  The hope is that it will add a layer of depth to the finish.  Successful or unsuccessful, I will report back.  I’m hopeful.
 
mattbyington said:
[member=74278]Packard[/member] thanks for the tips!! Appreciate it!!

Matt

I did test the Polyshades over the black paint.  The improved depth of black finish was subtle, and might have been a product of this not being a blind test.  I knew which piece was coated with the Polyshades and which was just clear coated.

It certainly did not show any difference in the photos.  So no sense posting images.

I tried two different Polyshades colors over the black (Lamp Black imitation milk paint from General Finishes).

The Lamp Black is a true black but on the cool side of the color wheel and the Polyshades Classic Black maintained that impression.

I also tried Espresso over the black.  It still read as a true black, but with a distinctly warmer appearance when hit directly with a light source. In the shade, it was simply “black”.

In both cases I used gloss oil based poly.  To degloss it, I used bees wax/carnauba wax and applied it with 0000 steel wool.  If you think you might want to re-finish it in the future, don’t use wax.  Instead use “wool oil” (oil for steel wool, not taken from sheep).

It is amusing to me that my spell checker has never heard of “carnauba” wax and flags it each time I type it. 

I would note that Minwax is now labeling their oil based clear finishes as “warm”.  It has always been so, but I think this is to distinguish from the water based poly finishes.  The Espresso poly was noticeably warmer yet.

I suggest you make some samples first. 

I like to wipe on oil based poly, and I dilute the poly 50/50 with mineral spirts.  The new cans of oil based poly from Minwax warn against diluting.

An interesting experiment

 
[member=82312]onocoffee[/member] thanks! if you scroll up in this thread, I posted a link to where I got them.

[member=74278]Packard[/member] thanks for the write up!

Matt
 
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