Entry Doors with side lites

[Warrior]

I actually do not like a random drawing contest. That is not a contest at all.

My point was that this should be a contest of woodworking with festool. Thats all. I have enjoyed documenting the progress of making the doors. I just felt that the direction of a contest of best documentation and descriptions may be a little out of reach for woodworkers without writing or photagraphy skills. But a random drawing is no fun at all. At least with a woodworking with festool contest the contestants feel they have a little control over the outcome. Or have a reason to put forth their best effort. That is what a competition is all about. No random drawings please.

Eiji Fuller

 

[Warrior]

When the criteria shifted to best documetation.  I wanted to post a reply on the contest criteria thread but didn't. I wanted to say that I think that the contest is an excellent idea, but I feel that the most important criteria should be excellent woodworking and craftsmanship with the emphasis on usage of Festool to get you there. 

Making criteria of best documentation and  best how to descriptions puts it out of reach for woodworkers without photography skills and writing skills. And obviously if the focus is on Festool tools to gain the utmost in craftsmanship the documentation has to be there to support that.

 

[nickao]

I agree with that. I guess it was a way to let the lesser experienced be able to compete with the more experienced. To me if it is a contest on best woodworking it should be only the work. Really this is a Festool forum like you said. Maybe festool techniques should only be considered. I guess it will work itself out over the next few months.

I do love your projects and documentation, I do not know what more you really can do. You set the bar high for anyone. I only hope it does not scare off some newer people to woodworking to participate in the project threads.

You have a heck of a submission and you should be really proud of your work.

You can make doors for me anytime   I see your cutie pies!

 

[Warrior]

You set the bar high for anyone. I only hope it does not scare off some newer people to woodworking to participate in the project threads.

I don't think we have scared anyone off. I actually think the participation in the project threads has increased a great deal. Just look at all the first time posts in each of my project threads. Also, I think the number of projects has increased this month as well.

 

[Warrior]

...unless some lurkers suddenly start posting this may be the same people over  and over every month competing.

Like I said before only time will tell.

that's great. So when is the Kapex the first prize?

 

[Warrior]

Well, I'm back at it.

I've milled the jamb stock to 22mm thick and I will glue on a kerfed stop later.

on to the thresholds. The finish flooring is tile on slab so a thick t-hold will not work. I have milled the T-hold stock to 25mm and will glue on a stip to the underside. This strip serves 2 puposes, it thickens up the beveled side and props it up at the correct angle and I can run it through the planer to get the bevel.

You think I could use some bow clamps? After the glue dries I rip the edge off and layout for dadoes for the doubled up door/side lite jamb legs. The sandwich will be 80mm. I've set up to route 8mm deep with a 20mm bit plus 60mm spacer.

 

[poto]

Hey Eiji,

Looks like you're violating Per's cardinal rule of tape measures: lock them all away except for one, and then lock that one away 

I might be being a bit dense, but how do you protect the threshold (T-hold?) from wear? Do you cover it with anything, or is it just finished wood?

Love your clamp collection!

 

[Warrior]

Well, I am not quite done yet and I've gotten a little accomplished the past couple of days. ;D

After milling of the thresholds you can see why I dadoed for the dividing jambs first.

Time for a jamb sandwich. I want 80mm of jamb. 2 @ 22 =44 + 36 =80mm target thickness. I guess I should of made the sandwich first and then ate it. 

I use some dominoes in the jamb lamination and offset the mid piece.

Then glue it up. Man am I using up a lot of glue or what.

 

[Warrior]

I had to take a break and make my son a sword.

 

[Warrior]

After assembling the dividing jambs I cut them to length which is the door height + dadoe and reveals. I use a 2mm reveal at the top and 4mm at the bottom of the doors.

Here are some pics of the set up to rabbet the door stop.

Then check the fit of the jamb glue up in its dadoe in the threshold. Perfect.

I cut the bottoms of the door stop to match the angle of the threshold

 

[Warrior]

I cut all the stops the length of the laminated jamb. I then laminate the stops onto the jambs.

I  layout the cuts for the side jambs with cut offs of jamb and T-hold.

I have all the jambs lined up to check that everything is just right.

 

[Warrior]

On doors with fixed side lites I attach the side lite to the jambs before attaching the head jamb and threshold. That way I can still get the system to the job in my truck. The side lite jamb assemblies make the whole system very ridgid, kind of acting like shear panels.

I cut the lites to width making sure that the sides are exactly parrallel and square up the bottom.

I align the bottom of the lites to the bottom of the jambs with the threshold cut off.

Scribe the tops to the stop and cut.

Time for some Festool Energy Drink ;D

 

[Warrior]

Before attaching the jambs to the side lites. I rout out the hinge mortises. I have a dedicated template that has the pins and adjustable stops removed. Instead of adjustable stops I have blocks attached to the template and clamp it to the work piece. I will not put any pin holes in these jambs or doors. The blocks also act as zero clearance so you get no tearout when routing the hinge mortise.

When setting up for the depth of cut I plunge the router to the work and lock it in position. then insert the hinge plate, press down on the depth stop and lock it.  Now if I had another hand it would be great. sometimes when reaching over to release the router plunge lock the plate will rock a little and mess up the depth. I just set it and back off about .2mm and then adjust the cut if needed.

 

[Warrior]

Now I assemble the sidelites and jambs.

I cut the stop for the top jamb but leave it loose.

 

[Warrior]

Using the threshold dadoes I scribe and cut the head jamb stop and mark out the location with them as well.

I run the exterior side trim past the threshold so I have a notch instead of horns.  The notch is the stop thickness minus the trim reveal 15mm - 6mm = 9mm. I just love metric.

Using a rule or storystick from eachside of the stop for each corresponding sidelite assembly I cut the head jamb. They are all wrapped up and ready for delivery.

 

[Warrior]

Using the same methods I have other jambs and T-holds cut and wrapped.

Before I can get to the door prep for the double doors I need to set some glass in the single doors. I like to have the glass stop flush with the frame so I mill it slightly proud and sand it flush. Even if in moves slighty and puts a line in the finish I like the look better that and stop with a step reveal.

 

[Warrior]

I think this is what we have been waiting for.

The door prep for the double doors. I am doing the prep for the wood panel door with operable side lite first.

The first step is to size the doors in width making absolutely, positively sure that the cuts are parrallel. I only put a bevel on the operable door lock stile.  The reason is that I like narrow reveals and putting bevels on both sides of the doors opens up the hinge and the hinge gap gets bigger. Smaller is better in this case MO asthetically. With no bevel I get a 1.5mm reveal at the hinge side and I put 2mm between the doors for and total of 5mm of reveal in the width. If it gets a little tight I can always trim .5mm off the operable door before I do the lock prep. But I have never had to resize my doors before.

I have 1535mm in the opening so the operable sidelite is cut to 610mm and the operating door is cut to 915mm. After cutting the doors in width I clamp them together and square up and cut the tops at the same time using a 3-4-5 triangle to align the rail. I then measure from the top cut for the bottom cut figuring in my reveals of 2mm top and 4mm bottom.

Love that 16' hose.

 

[Warrior]

When both doors are cut at the same time it ensures that the tops and bottoms of the doors align after install.

Hinge prep is next. Then installation of the extension flushbolts in the operable sidelight using the OF-1400 and OF-HF routing aid. I like that name better that "plexiglass template".

I layout the flush bolt assembly on the door and mark the location of the end of the plate closest to the end of the door. The plate is 1" wide so I am using a 1" bit to rout the mortise. I center the OF-HF on the door thickness and place the lateral center 1/2" off the start mark towards the center of the mortise. I clamp a stop at that location. I then place the flush bolt on the other side and clamp a stop there as well. I add a 1" spacer in front of the back stop to compensate for the thickness of the bit. I need to create a stepped mortise with the deeper center of the mortise 3/4" in from the ends of the mortise. I add a 3/4" spacer to each side and then put a little tape on them so they dont vibrate off during the routing but so I can just fold them back when routing the shallow parts of the mortise. The deep part of the mortise is routed first and to 32 mm depth. then fold back the tape pulling back the 3/4" spacers but keeping the 1" spacer in place. I set the depth for the plate in the same way I set the depth for the hinges.

 

[Warrior]

More.

Also when setting up to route the flush bolt for the other end of the door  I set up the same but made sure to 180 the router and template.

 

[Warrior]

Now to bore the extension bolt. I dont have a boring jig so I just changed to a 1/2"  extra long plunge bit with the OF-HF. The hole needs to be 3/4" from the edge of the door. so I just used my starrett and one of the 3/4 spacers.

Now I have I nice straight starter hole and I finish with a long bit. It's a remote control automatic makita ;D.