Epoxy and Finish

Maple leaf!

I wonder about danish oil as a sealer.

I'm about to do three cutting boards with engraved inlays.  I'm using SystemThree MirrorCast.  They suggest a brushed coat of plain epoxy first, let dry then come back with the pigmented epoxy over that.  I am thinking a cabinet scraper might be an option for removal that could be faster and easier than sanding.

 
neilc said:
Maple leaf!

I wonder about danish oil as a sealer.

I'm about to do three cutting boards with engraved inlays.  I'm using SystemThree MirrorCast.  They suggest a brushed coat of plain epoxy first, let dry then come back with the pigmented epoxy over that.  I am thinking a cabinet scraper might be an option for removal that could be faster and easier than sanding.

This is what I'm going to use on those signs, 3-5 coats of Danish oil
56Z2701s3.jpg


8hrs and it's still sticky  [scared] going to wait the full 24hrs  [wink]

Since it's my first experience with epoxy, I will try sanding first and if it's too slow I may try a scraper approach  [smile]
 
That’s the oil I put on after too. I tried another board yesterday with colour like your red (except mine was opaque), but no seal first. Did you seal yours first? Mine didn’t work well (too much bleeding), so I surfaced it and am trying it again with a seal today. It also gave me some time to fix my design. Did you use artresin?
 

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Gjarman12 said:
That’s the oil I put on after too. I tried another board yesterday with colour like your red (except mine was opaque), but no seal first. Did you seal yours first? Mine didn’t work well (too much bleeding), so I surfaced it and am trying it again with a seal today. It also gave me some time to fix my design. Did you use artresin?

No I didn't sealed it and will see how if any bleed. I guess it react differently with different species, will see. I made the mistake to move one of the sign and the epoxy from the letters leaked out. I will have to poor it again tonight. I use EcoEpoxy UV and the mix was easy. I thought Artresint was cheaper and was planning to give it a try next. A second look shows me that the EcoEpoxy is the best deal I could get + I can get it locally. I'm really focused on local buying, because if something go wrong I can easily go back and deal in person with them. One of the two signs will be ready for sanding/scraping and the other one need more epoxy  [embarassed]
 
Cheese said:
There still may be some small voids after you sand it Mario. If that’s the case just fill them with epoxy and resand.

I hope not, waiting 24hrs for me is like an eternity lol
 
Ptk16 said:
Off topic....how amazing is the shaper origin?

Don't know if the question is toward me, I made the signs with a CNC (ShapeOko 3 XXL) not from a Shaper Origin.
 
Mario Turcot said:
Ptk16 said:
Off topic....how amazing is the shaper origin?

Don't know if the question is toward me, I made the signs with a CNC (ShapeOko 3 XXL) not from a Shaper Origin.

Sorry, it was directed at Gjarman12 because you can see the tape used with the system in his picture above.

However...now I can ask you what you think of the shapeoko, I am tempted.
 
[member=66597]Mario Turcot[/member] I hear you about the buying local. I bought some pigment of ecopoxy locally. I had bought th art resin a few months ago when looking for food grade epoxy. I wish I knew the ecopoxy was food grade  at that point. I called both companies in the last two weeks and spoke to a person really quickly and they were both super honest and helpful.
The bleeding is very interesting. This board that bled is of a species I don’t know. I’m trying something on my parents cutting board. The maple didn’t seem to bleed AT ALL.

Yes. The origin is awesome. I wish I had more time to use it. [member=59876]Ptk16[/member] although I had some results I wasn’t happy with on my second carving today.
 
The two signs I made are from Padauk and Sapele. Will report how the bleeding went. Padauk is a messy wood to cut but I really like the look.

On another note, my knees made me avoid the shop for almost 10 days.  [crying] I'm planning to spend some time today to at least setup a CNC job or two.
 
[member=59876]Ptk16[/member]
Ptk16 said:
However...now I can ask you what you think of the shapeoko, I am tempted.

I look around and shop for at least 6 months before I made my choice. At the end it was between the X-Carve and the Shapeoko 3. At the time I was looking for an affordable DIY system. The shapeoko 3 came 250$ cheeaper + the Makita router and shipping was included. The biggest difference between the two machine is in the rigidity of the Shapeoko 3. You can easily flex the X-Carve extrusions but not the Shapeoko 3. I have the XXl, the machine works flawless and only tuned it after asembly. Took me 3.5hrs to put together and to run the provided test.

P.S. I refer always to the shapeoko 3 to not mix the old one, because the X-Carve was first named Shapeoko.
 
Need advice

One of the sign (Padauk) one is ready to get the first Danish oil coat. The other (Sapele) need more epoxy due to a mistake. I applied the epoxy 72hrs ago and it still sticky, enough that I can leave my finger print on it. What should I do, sand it or wait a bit longer?

I guess this happened because I did not use the same quantity of the resin and hardener.
 
And the final product

[attachimg=1]

My impression with Epoxy

First it is very easy to use and very hard to sand  [scared] I realized after pouring my name that I should have used white instead of black because Padauk is a dark wood. The way I used it is not the most effective, I mean one of the most appreciated aspect of epoxy is it's glossy like glass look and sanding it is like driving a ferrari on a crush stone road  [eek]

My Mistakes

-Setup is key, epoxy can be a messy product. Make sure to use a surface easy to clean.
-Preparation is even more important. Mix both products equally or get ready for a mess. I saw videos people using a scale and now I know why.
-Absorption/bleeding, some wood will absorb epoxy, get ready to apply a second coat. In my case Padauk react well since it's a dense grain but Sapele behave differently, especially on end grain.
-Sanding epoxy is no different than a very very very HARD wood. I start with the RO using 40 and 80 grit, and finish it with the ETC EC 120 grit. I figure 120 grit was enough to let the Danish oil penetrate the wood. The epoxy itself could use a finer grit but it was not an easy task in my case.

About EcoEpoxy

EcoEpoxy is the cheapest epoxy I found and hopefully it was available locally. I found it easy to use and easy to mix with the colour pigments. It was hard enough to sand after 24hrs if well mixed. If not well mixed it is impossible to sand without a huuuuge mess. P.S. I haven't look during that 24hrs period if it was hard enough but only after the 24hrs. One thing to note, not all brands are a one coat application and EcoEpoxy is amongs them. That's mean you can pour as thick as you want and it will harden more or less in the same curing time.

I was also considering ArtResin epoxy, made I believe in the GT area. After calculation it was a bit more expensive than EcoEpoxy.
 

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Nice work [member=66597]Mario Turcot[/member]!

Sanding epoxy is indeed a pain.  It won't work in every situation, but I'm happy I have the RAS in the arsenal to knock down epoxy overfills.

 
Does it clog/gum the abrasives (like granat) or does it release fairly easily like wood? (Assuming your using dust collection)
 
RKA said:
Does it clog/gum the abrasives (like granat) or does it release fairly easily like wood? (Assuming your using dust collection)

I only have experience with West Systems epoxy. However, after 24 hours it sands like a very dense/hard wood. It doesn’t clog Granat at all.

I’ve even mixed up some West Systems that I hadn’t put enough hardener in and it too sanded nicely. I’ll post photos of it on a thread I’ll author on refinishing a Simpson exterior door.
 
Thank you!

That was quite an interesting experience and I enjoy all the steps required.  [big grin]
 
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