Epoxy recommendation for plastic?

[Bugsysiegals]

I have a Rigid vacuum and the connector port the hose connects to was never "glued" into the vacuum's body very well so anytime I pull the hose tightly it pulls the hose/connector out.  I'm considering epoxying this connector to the body but I'm not sure what will be best to bond them.  I also broke a plastic caster wheel on my desktop PC yesterday and perhaps the same can be used.

My brother said he uses Gorilla Glue 2 part epoxy mix for his occasional projects but wanted the thoughts of those who do this kind of stuff more consistently or professionally ... what do you recommend?

 

[semenza]

I have never had much luck with epoxy on plastic. I think a better option for what you describe would be general purpose PVC / ABS cement from the plumbing isle.

Seth

 

[six-point socket II]

Knowing experts in this field, they would probably ask what type of plastic it is exactly that you want to glue and/or weld, first. As there are many different types and different types of adhesives/primers (...).

But without overcomplicating things:

My go to choice would be 3M Scotch-Weld which is Cyanoacrylate based. (Think superglue.) I don't recall that ever failing on me. However this does absolutely not do well if you need to "fill" any voids.

Then there is the J-B Weld "Plastic Weld", they have different versions of that - might be worth a closer look if you actually need to "fill" a little.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I have never had much luck with epoxy on plastic. I think a better option for what you describe would be general purpose PVC / ABS cement from the plumbing isle.

Seth

Interesting, I'd not considered this!  Does it have to be ABS for this to really "melt" or weld it together?

Knowing experts in this field, they would probably ask what type of plastic it is exactly that you want to glue and/or weld, first. As there are many different types and different types of adhesives/primers (...).

But without overcomplicating things:

My go to choice would be 3M Scotch-Weld which is Cyanoacrylate based. (Think superglue.) I don't recall that ever failing on me. However this does absolutely not do well if you need to "fill" any voids.

Then there is the J-B Weld "Plastic Weld", they have different versions of that - might be worth a closer look if you actually need to "fill" a little.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Thanks, I'll have a look at this too.  No major gaps but good to know!

 

[Cheese]

My go to choice would be 3M Scotch-Weld which is Cyanoacrylate based. (Think superglue.) I don't recall that ever failing on me. However this does absolutely not do well if you need to "fill" any voids.

Then there is the J-B Weld "Plastic Weld", they have different versions of that - might be worth a closer look if you actually need to "fill" a little.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Thanks, I'll have a look at this too.  No major gaps but good to know!

Just be aware that if you Goggle Scotch-Weld, it will bring up a complete family of 3M structural adhesives. Some are cyanoacrylate, some are acrylics, some are PUR and some are epoxy based. I used Scotch-Weld™ DP190, a 2-part epoxy to fabricate a stainless stair railing.

[attachimg=1]

 

[six-point socket II]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] is right. The one I was referring to is PR100.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[Packard]

I would use E6000 adhesive.  It is a styrene based adhesive that is like silicone adhesive on steroids.  Much, much stronger hold.  Remains flexible.  It is readily available at hobby shops and Lowes and maybe Home Depot. 

The problem with epoxy on flexible fittings, is that it does not flex also. Eventually it will crack and fail.

E6000 is used in the costume jewelry industry to glue the stones (or glass) to the metal findings.  It works particularly well on non-porous materials.  It is also tenacious on fabric (quick hem on a pair of slacks, anyone?).  It resists heat and moisture.  It costs more than silicone, so it might not suit really large jobs, but for your hose fitting, ideal.

I just checked.  I see Amazon sells this in small squeeze tubes as well as in caulking tubes (I have never used the latter—was not aware it was an option).

 

[rst]

The majority of formed tool parts are ABS and can be repaired with model glue, Weldon plastic or MEK (nasty stuff use caution)

 

[Cheese]

I would use E6000 adhesive.  It is a styrene based adhesive that is like silicone adhesive on steroids.  Much, much stronger hold.  Remains flexible.  It is readily available at hobby shops and Lowes and maybe Home Depot. 

The problem with epoxy on flexible fittings, is that it does not flex also. Eventually it will crack and fail.

E6000 is used in the costume jewelry industry to glue the stones (or glass) to the metal findings.  It works particularly well on non-porous materials.  It is also tenacious on fabric (quick hem on a pair of slacks, anyone?).  It resists heat and moisture.  It costs more than silicone, so it might not suit really large jobs, but for your hose fitting, ideal.

I am very interested in the E6000 for some jewelry repairs, however I did notice these caveats.
Not recommended for use on polystyrene, polyethylene, polypropylene, Styrofoam™ or paper products.
E-6000 is not formulated for exposure to sunlight but it may be painted over for maximum UV resistance.

This stuff is available at Home Depot.  [smile]