ES125 Sander and CT22 Mini Dust Collector

[tinyrice]

I recently had to repair a ceiling that had a previously been covered by fluorescant lights and a dropped ceiling system.  I could not believe what a fabulous and DUST FREE job my 125 and CT Mini did on that ceiling. I skim coated it, knocked it down with 120 then 180 and final spot sanded with 220 grit and got a really smooth finish and no dust. Not only that, but working overhead with carpal tunnel in my right hand concerned me, but the ES 125 was no problem at all. An oustanding tool that I'm now using to sand drywall prior to paint - good bye and good riddance pole sanders!

 

[Dan Clark]

tinyrice (or anyone)

I have a RO150 FEQ (the new one).  In the past (including last week), I have used a hand sander with my CT22 attached to its dust port.    This post intrigued me. 

Do you think the RO150's increased stroke (5mm) versus the RO125's shorter stroke (3.6mm) will have an affect?  If I use the 150, should I use a finer grit?  (E.g., start with 150 and then go to 220?) 

What is the recommended sandpaper type for this?  Brilliant?  Rubin?   

Thanks,

Dan.

 

[Bob Marino]

tinyrice (or anyone)

I have a RO150 FEQ (the new one).  In the past (including last week), I have used a hand sander with my CT22 attached to its dust port.    This post intrigued me.   

Do you think the RO150's increased stroke (5mm) versus the RO125's shorter stroke (3.6mm) will have an affect?  If I use the 150, should I use a finer grit?  (E.g., start with 150 and then go to 220?)   
 
What is the recommended sandpaper type for this?  Brilliant?   Rubin?   

Thanks,

Dan.

Dan,

He is using the ES 125, not the RO 125 - big difference, particularly with when sanding overhead or vertical surfaces. The Rotex is as heavy as the ES is light.
Yes, the 5 mm orbit will be way faster and if you ain't careful, too fast. I would use the Brilliant papers, maybe 120 if it is really thickly caked and end with 220. Also, turn the speed down or you will go right through the mud. Many folks forgo sanding altogether and just wet sand.

Bob

 

[Dan Clark]

Bob,

Oooops!    Missed the "ES..." part.    Thanks for info about the paper and speed.

Regarding wet sanding mud, I've tried that with mixed results.  I found it a bit difficult to get in corners.  Since I'll be doing a lot of drywall over the next two months, I'll try wet sanding again.

Thanks,

Dan.

 

[Dan Uhlir]

Thanks for the info on the ES vs. the RO what's the difference with the ETS. would it be correct to say the ES is the ticket ( other than wet sand ) for drywall finishing if so than could yet aanother sander be in my future.
P.S. I am building a wall in my basement and had a chance to us my festool saw all day what a pleasure to get it back in use, look forward to some jigsaw issues tomorrow.Thanks Dan

 

[Dan Clermont]

WOuldn't sanding drywall void the warranty? I remember being told at some tool store that warranty's were void if a sander got all clogged up with drywall dust.

Now, these tools that got all clogged up and died certainly weren't Festools and if Festool does still offer warranty if I ever have problems with my sander I think I have found another tool "I NEED TO HAVE" 

Dan Clermont

 

[tinyrice]

"Use grits P80 to P120 for prepping painted surfaces. Provides fast removal rate and good surface quality. Perfect grits for sanding fillers and drywall compound " Quote from the Festool advert for Brilliant discs. Can't see how they can void the warranty when they're providing the disc papers to do the job with.