European Hinge Jigs

[peter halle]

You can buy different drills instead of those shown - which are not included anyway. I ordered the CMT - Thanks @Scott in Bend Oregon for the heads up! - but held off on ordering the drill bits until I decide which hinges I will use.

Peter

 

[Packard]

The boring distance (what you’re referring to as tabs) is set by moving the back stop (the part with the green tape on it in the original picture I posted) in or out. You’ll see it removed in the picture below.

We made spacers to set the distance for the most common hinges we use. There are set up blocks that go on the bits in the head so we can set the left and right stops. We also have a spacer to drill the 3/4 hole diameter for bi-fold doors most commonly used on corner cabinets with lazy susan’s in them. This spacer is 1/4” thick so the 35mm bit clears it height wise. It is currently set up for inset applications.

There is an adjustable depth stop rod behind the 35mm bit.

The one spacer reads Hetch shallow cup, that cup hole is drilled 7.8mm if I remember correctly. It is the only hinge on the market currently with a cup that will work on a 1/2” thick panel with soft close.

View attachment 377564

Tom

Why are all the holes in “1/2 full inset” piece so ragged? I would think it would compromise the installation strength.

 

[tjbnwi]

Why are all the holes in “1/2 full inset” piece so ragged? I would think it would compromise the installation strength.

I don’t understand “installation strength” Once the stops are set this goes back in a drawer.

The 1/2 Full indicate have crank or full crank hinges use on inset doors.

It’s 5-6 years old, probably used at least 1000 times. Still works just fine, I snapped on 4 doors today that were drilled using this jig to setup the boring head. The hinge plate holes were bored on the CNC when the panels were created.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

You can buy different drills instead of those shown - which are not included anyway. I ordered the CMT - Thanks @Scott in Bend Oregon for the heads up! - but held off on ordering the drill bits until I decide which hinges I will use.

Peter

We have all of the bits that CMT markets, if we need something different odds are we have them for the CNC in a configuration that will fit the Blum jig.

Tom

 

[Land yachtie]

The CMT attachment looks to be more of a cabinet shop tool, since it drills the screw holes at 8mm, for the dowel style hinges. Those are more often sold in bulk quantities, where the usual retail ones just use screws.

Order from EB Bradley get great price and whatever attachment you want I was a one man shop, I only did like 12 full kitchens but I could get any thing I asked for. Some hinge variant came only with 8mm pressing but you just unscrew them and use 6x5/8 screws. Thus last one I did on the road was no table saw, all track saw break down. The blind corner Salice hinges I had to get were only 8mm pressin
I used to have a delta mortising chisel tool, I got a long shank 35 mm forstner bit and used that for years to make hinge cups. On this on we ordered a Chinese tool that worked great.

 

[Magpal]

For occasional hinge drilling, a 3D printed set is very cheap and gives a pretty decent result. I used this with a 35mm forstner bit. It has different shims for adjusting the boring distance to your own preference/hinge set. The only downside is that there is no depth stop, but for the occasional job it will do fine:

35mm Hinge Drilling Jig by MP makes | Download free STL model | Printables.com

 

[Crazyraceguy]

@Land yachtie I got one of those, a few weeks ago, for my home shop. I don't have everyday access to the big machines anymore. I haven't used it yet though. I've had too many other things ahead of that project.

 

[Packard]

Not mentioned, but for just a couple of doors, you can make a paper marking template with just a piece of paper and a pencil and a ruler and a square. Mark the center points on the paper template and then transfer them to the door with an awl.

I made my first two doors that way. I think I requested a layout from the vendor and they mailed me a copy. In any case, sufficiently accurate and fast and easy to use. If you have a drafting program you can print out the layouts as required. Blum publishes the data. I found this: