Even more homemade parallel guides - Thanks to mikeneron and terrystouf

[woodwreck]

Finale

Claimdude -

Following are my comments and answers in exception to the outstanding description you provided. I have copied unabashedly, your design and concept.

First, in answer to Mikeneron:

...  what did you use to connect the guide rail connector to your wood block?  ....  Maybe you could provide a link for that specific bolt?

The set screws contained in the Festool connecting rods are threaded as 6mm, my two button screws shown are M6-1.0-20 (e.g 3/4" long).

The screw holding the Rockler extrusion is 1/4-20 x 3/4". Length of all would be dependent on thickness of the wood bracket. The Rockler extrusion does not accept 5/16" bolts.

By exception to Jack's outstanding job I used 3/4" oak, 6" square.

I chose out of personal preference to use a dado set on the table saw rather than router to take advantage of the Incra fence's inherent micrometer adjustment to make a pefect fit on both cuts. I made the cuts on both ends of one board, ripped the extrusion dado up the center, and then cut the board in half.

My cut for the extrusion turned out so well, only one screw was needed. Jack's substantial comments about differing depths do not exist in using the Rockler channels, v. Incra, due to differing dimensions in the profile.

I discovered in use (below) that the T lip in Rockler that sits over the corner of the sheet goods is invaluable. Why Festool lacks such is beyond me.

There is no need to check the head of the assembly for 90 degree square (e.g. the forward bracket like the head on a drafting T-square (for those of us who remember such)  [smile]. Instead however, it is is a good idea to pencil mark particularly the wider 4' cuts to double check the alignment of the assembly when sliding to position at least until verified in greater use

I slid the assembly by gripping only the head, in to position. In making smaller cuts on the order of 2' to 3' square or rectangular panels, it was dead on each time. When I initially tried a full 4' sheet cross cut, I am not certain, but I think that is something to gain experience with before I get rid of the pencil and tape measure.

Similarly, I used the full 6" Festool rail half connector, reusing the existing Festool threaded holes rather than drilling my own as done on the wayward T-brackets for rigidity.

Instead of the peculiar 16" tape measure strips, I am using the Rockler 36" tapes, left and right handed respectively, as previously cited part numbers.

 

[woodwreck]

HERE  Are the attachments 2 pics hopefully  ???

 

[Claimdude]

Finale

Claimdude -

Following are my comments and answers in exception to the outstanding description you provided. I have copied unabashedly, your design and concept.

First, in answer to Mikeneron:

...  what did you use to connect the guide rail connector to your wood block?  ....  Maybe you could provide a link for that specific bolt?

The set screws contained in the Festool connecting rods are threaded as 6mm, my two button screws shown are M6-1.0-20 (e.g 3/4" long).

The screw holding the Rockler extrusion is 1/4-20 x 3/4". Length of all would be dependent on thickness of the wood bracket. The Rockler extrusion does not accept 5/16" bolts.

By exception to Jack's outstanding job I used 3/4" oak, 6" square.

I chose out of personal preference to use a dado set on the table saw rather than router to take advantage of the Incra fence's inherent micrometer adjustment to make a pefect fit on both cuts. I made the cuts on both ends of one board, ripped the extrusion dado up the center, and then cut the board in half.

My cut for the extrusion turned out so well, only one screw was needed. Jack's substantial comments about differing depths do not exist in using the Rockler channels, v. Incra, due to differing dimensions in the profile.

I discovered in use (below) that the T lip in Rockler that sits over the corner of the sheet goods is invaluable. Why Festool lacks such is beyond me.

There is no need to check the head of the assembly for 90 degree square (e.g. the forward bracket like the head on a drafting T-square (for those of us who remember such)  [smile]. Instead however, it is is a good idea to pencil mark particularly the wider 4' cuts to double check the alignment of the assembly when sliding to position at least until verified in greater use

I slid the assembly by gripping only the head, in to position. In making smaller cuts on the order of 2' to 3' square or rectangular panels, it was dead on each time. When I initially tried a full 4' sheet cross cut, I am not certain, but I think that is something to gain experience with before I get rid of the pencil and tape measure.

Similarly, I used the full 6" Festool rail half connector, reusing the existing Festool threaded holes rather than drilling my own as done on the wayward T-brackets for rigidity.

Instead of the peculiar 16" tape measure strips, I am using the Rockler 36" tapes, left and right handed respectively, as previously cited part numbers.

Woodwreck,

I like it! I really wish the IRs were the same height as the FRs it would be easier to make the wood brackets, ie dado blade on table saw. I do have the Incra fence on my router table so sneeking up on the dado width is pretty simple. The lip on RRs (Rockler rails) is nice touch as well. The main reason I wanted the guides laying fully flat on top of the cut material is to facilitate cutting thinner material down to 1/4". My guide blocks extend below the bottom of the IRs just 3/16" for that reason as well.

I used M6, 1" cap screws (shortest I could find around here) but the extra thickness of my bracket and the flat washer takes up the difference.

Thanks for sharing Woodwreck.... The next set I make will go much quicker..... Hmmmmm maybe I'll make a shorter set using the Rockler stuff. I could use the Rockler flipstops (bought a pair when they were 50% off).

Jack

 

[woodwreck]

Thanks for sharing Woodwreck.... The next set I make will go much quicker..... Hmmmmm maybe I'll make a shorter set using the Rockler stuff. I could use the Rockler flipstops (bought a pair when they were 50% off).

Try the Rockler  you will like them - they fit perfectly notice the flush bottom - I can do any thickness (1/8") without any of the numerous offset efforts you went to.

As to the flip stops, a word of advice. Unfortunately they are not reversible for left and right, e.g. literally reverse the flip across the base. But, just off set one and adjust the tape accordingly on installation. Another advantage of a 36" tape.

It was a pleasure working with you.

 

[John1102]

Great idea and design.

 

[ben_r_]

Great idea and design.

WHOA! You resurrected an oldie here!