Evolution V2 Guide Rails (ST2800-G2)

smorgasbord

Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2022
Messages
1,080
To go along with my cheapy-gifted Vevor track saw, I just bought a set of Evolution brand Guide Rails, model ST2800-G2. Two 55" rails with joiner bars and rail clamps.

On the good side, the rails are within 0.05mm straight compared to my Starrett 4' straight edge. They came well packaged in carboard box with thick corners (about ½") and padding all around. There is a carry case that doesn't close, but has a smaller zippered pocket for clamps and such.
On the bad side, the included rail clamps seem meh at best, probably not worth using if you've got any others. They are short, which might be handy in tight spots if you're not cutting thick material. I'd rather have saved $10 and not gotten them but the rails aren't available on their own.

I didn't get a chance to join the two halves together, unfortunately. The Vevor track saw adjusts to them just fine and slides well, although I haven't made a cut yet. Peter Millard reviewed them a few months back here:


For $150, they seem worth it if you're not expecting Festool level quality. I decided to get them now to avoid price increases due to potential tariffs.

As I use them I'll post additional thoughts.
 
Do yourself a favour and get a Makita connector set for them. Before the rails get dented ..

Outside of that, for $150, that is more than the Makitas go over here. They better be good. They are straight, that is great for a start. So probably worth the money. Anti-slip strips can be replaced as/if needed.

/counting the included clamps and connectors as worthless for all intents and purposes/
 
Do yourself a favour and get a Makita connector set for them. Before the rails get dented ..

The Evolution connectors don't use grub screws. Here's Millard showing them off:


I haven't joined mine together yet, but will report back when I do.

Outside of that, for $150, that is more than the Makitas go over here.

In the US, $94 gets you ONE 55" Makita rail.
 
Last edited:
That is kinda insane pricing .. for the way lower quality compared to FT rails.

Over here a Makita 1500 rail goes €40-ish online, €50-ish at retail. The 20%+ of a sales tax included.
 
That is kinda insane pricing

Link to the Makita at $93: https://www.amazon.com/Makita-194368-5-Guide-Rail-55-Inch/dp/B002XFYBYQ

Link to the Festool at $146: https://www.amazon.com/Festool-FS-1400-Guide-Rail-400/dp/B001495RZE/

Link to the Festool set of 2 at $399: https://www.toolnirvana.com/products/festool-577932-55-guide-rail-fs2-1400-set

So, with my cheap (and free) track saw I decided to go with the cheap rails. If I find myself reaching for the track saw frequently enough, I'll upgrade to the TS-60 unless Festool upgrades the TS-75 to a brushless motor, etc. Not holding my breath.
 
Oh, I did not say I did not believe you .. just that the Makita rails are so overpriced in the US was a surprise to hear.

As for the Evolution ones, as long as you got straight ones, there is no point in "upgrading" to the FS/2 rails. The anti-slip strips will be garbage, but those you can just get from Festool for not much money and replace - assuming you have the time to fiddle with it.

One bad thing about the deal you got is both rails being 1400 which is the worst possible combination one can have. Ideally, in your position, I would look out for a Festool 1900 rail to complement them and/or another Evolution set to cut up and get a more useful set of lengths.

Having free time, you can get a proper setup:
(do need Makita connectors for semi-permanently joining rails though, they are the only ones suitable for that)

1400 #1 => keep as is
1400 #2 => cut to 750 + 650
1400 #3 => cut to 950 + 450
1400 #4 => cut to 1100 + 300(throw out)

end up with:

450 "mini" rail for in-place plunge cuts etc.
750 "handy" rail
1100 "daily driver"
1400 middle-ground
1600 "cross-cut" (950+650 semi-permanently joined)

Those can operationally join up to a 3000 (1600 + 1400) for full rips or 2500 (1400 + 1100) for full-height cabinets cuts, etc. Basically gives a complete setup for a hobbyist.

Also, no offence to the Evolution connectors, but I just cannot imagine them providing a stable connection (that does not wiggle-out during use). Huge kudos for them thinking outside the (patented) boxes though!
 
Last edited:
I do like the self centralising cam lock system. I can't see how they got a patent on that idea though. Been used in quick change inserts for moulding dies for many years now. Maybe the application of centrally aligning 2 separate pieces is aspect for it. On some grinding wheel balance weights, they are retained by the weight being made into a flexure. The centre section is cut through to 2 drilled holes near the end. Then the cam, just spreads the pieces to the outer walls. Over time, they can become quite difficult to undo, as they lock in so well.
 
.. I can't see how they got a patent on that idea though ..
Not sure if you reacted to me, but what I meant about "(patented) boxes" is that both available self-aligning connectors (TSO, Festool), as well as the two-piece non-self-aligning one (Makita) are under active patent protection as of now.

That is why, e.g., Festool could not have the "second" connector in their new set use a Makita-style configuration, even though it would be the obviously superior choice.

The only out-of-protection connector type is the original (denting) Festool one, hence most competitors just stick to it. Evolution tried their own thing .. if patented or not I have no idea, but still kudos to them trying something else.
 
I just got a set of the Makita connector set thanks. I did like the Festool one that opens up , sideways just like the clamps on wheel mandrels. But they only have one of those in the set and not 2 of the same. Then combining a Festool set and a Makita set, kind of get the best of both really. So I will make my own expanding rail joiner to compliment the Makita one on the outside profile for the Festool rails. Thanks for the cut list of rails too. That's a very handy list. I am cutting my older 1400 rail into 3 , 650 actual, 350 actual (950) and the remainder about 445 or so long. This will cover most of what I do at home at the moment, and will give a long rail if needed for full sheet ripping.
I like the term patented boxes. Patents are in interesting subject on their own. Sometimes owners of patents are quite happy to allow people to licence their technology for often a very reasonable fee, not always based on a per unit arrangement.
It is clever, but I am not a fan of the TSO rail system. I prefer the Festool one for the rail alignment , and the Makita or Bayer one, like the Makita, but not connected with a rivet,(2 separate pieces).
You can replace the sharp pointed set screws, with a flat face type that have a very small outer edge radius.
 
..
I am cutting my older 1400 rail into 3 , 650 actual, 350 actual (950) and the remainder about 445 or so long. This will cover most of what I do at home at the moment, and will give a long rail if needed for full sheet ripping.
..
Careful with those cuts.

You need at least 500 mm of rail to be practical for non-emergency joining, ideally 700+ mm when the rail is to be used joined regularly. Otherwise you will face annoying issues with the clamps and/or attachments conflicting with the rails connectors.

I tried to balance the need for a short handy rail (750 is the minimum really) and to keep the off-cut long enough (650) to not cause those issues. Those lengths proposed were not "accidental". They come from an €120-expensive "lesson learned" when I made too-short 376 mm pieces and a 600 mm piece off one rail .. the shorties do fit in a systainer, as was the objective, but are a true PITA once one needs to clamp, use a rail square, etc. and the 600 is just hair-too-short for 300 cuts common in wall shelfs etc. Basically I wasted a 1400 rail ..

Cheers!
 
Last edited:
Back
Top