Exact Kapex Motor Changes?

MarcV said:
It was her nice way of saying that we abuse our tools and don't use the correct tool for the job.  I cant imagine that workers are that different from country to country. The only thing that ever made sense to me was the 110V kapex being hooked to a festool vacuum plugged into a 15amp circuit. The math of the amperage needed for both tools doesn't add up, so one of the motors has be starved of needed amps. Im not a electrician but it seems to make sense to me.

You a right, you are not an electrician.

A motor will draw as many amps as in needs. It will ignore the label on the outlet and if it needs more amps than the outlet can supply it will blow the fuse.

It seems to be a common misconception that a 15A outlet can somehow limit the power available to 15A and not deliver the current that a motor needs. Most 15A outlets will deliver more than 15A for a short time depending on which circuit breaker or fuse is fitted.

What may happen is that the wire that feeds the outlet is too thin and as you draw close to the limit the voltage drops. This causes the motor to draw even higher amps, overheating the motor or blowing the fuse.
 
Bohdan’s right.
Also, the Kapex has MMC electronics so it will draw as much amps it think it needs to maintain rpm’s. So if you constantly push the saw or have a dull blade and pushing it will always draw up against max amps, generating a lot of heat leading to overheating or brake the fuse. Any tool that has become hot benefit from some “free spin” to let the integral fan help it cool off after heavy use.
 
Bohdan said:
MarcV said:
It was her nice way of saying that we abuse our tools and don't use the correct tool for the job.  I cant imagine that workers are that different from country to country. The only thing that ever made sense to me was the 110V kapex being hooked to a festool vacuum plugged into a 15amp circuit. The math of the amperage needed for both tools doesn't add up, so one of the motors has be starved of needed amps. Im not a electrician but it seems to make sense to me.

You a right, you are not an electrician.

A motor will draw as many amps as in needs. It will ignore the label on the outlet and if it needs more amps than the outlet can supply it will blow the fuse.

It seems to be a common misconception that a 15A outlet can somehow limit the power available to 15A and not deliver the current that a motor needs. Most 15A outlets will deliver more than 15A for a short time depending on which circuit breaker or fuse is fitted.

What may happen is that the wire that feeds the outlet is too thin and as you draw close to the limit the voltage drops. This causes the motor to draw even higher amps, overheating the motor or blowing the fuse.

Ok you seem to very knowledgable in electronics. If you had to guess why does North America seem to have motor issues in North America vs other countries. At least thats what it seems reading through various Festool forums? The Miter Saws are assembled in Germany so I assume they are built the same when it comes to the 110v version. Did they send most of the bad batches to North America or is there something different here in regards to our power?
 
FestitaMakool said:
Bohdan’s right.
Also, the Kapex has MMC electronics so it will draw as much amps it think it needs to maintain rpm’s. So if you constantly push the saw or have a dull blade and pushing it will always draw up against max amps, generating a lot of heat leading to overheating or brake the fuse. Any tool that has become hot benefit from some “free spin” to let the integral fan help it cool off after heavy use.

Thats makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. I wish I could put a Dewalt Motor into the Kapex. You literally cant kill Dewalt miter saws. They are just poor at dust collection.
 
The 220 volt version has also had their fair share of failures over the years.

 
ChuckM said:
Michael Kellough said:
Tons of people, including the official response, don't think that matters.

Experts (at least some) think that wearing masks won't help you during this virus outbreak. I don't care what they think or say; I wear a mask when I'm in the public. It's my lungs, not theirs, and so I have the final say.

I think most of the mask information was dictated by the availability. As masks or specifically N95 were harder to obtain it seemed that information came out that stated that masks gave false sense of security and people didn't maintain social distancing, so they recommended not wearing them. Most mask still allows aerosolized molecules to enter in the sides if their isn't a good face seal. Then covid started increasing more substantially, so now most cities in North America are calling for mandatory masks while out in public. The main reason is so your breath and aerosolized saliva gets contained and not spread. If everyone wears one it costs down on the transmission from person to person. Unfortunately everywhere you go their are a few people not wearing them who either don't believe Covid is real or don't care. I am a 20 year Firefighter/Paramedic currently working through all of this so thats where i get my information.

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member]  which “experts” say that? I’d like to know who to ignore.

"If you are healthy, you only need to wear a mask if you are taking care of a person with COVID-19."
W.H.O. -https://www.who.int/emergencies/dis...9/advice-for-public/when-and-how-to-use-masks

This is the latest version. Before they updated their guidelines (a week ago?) , they even said wearing a mask could be worse than not wearing one! No kidding.

Our Chief Public Health Officer essentially said the same thing (because more or less she followed W.H.O.'s advice) until recently when she also changed her tune.

Their earlier advice was complete opposite to that given by medical experts in countries like Singapore, Taiwan, etc. I have been wearing masks since mid-March...not taking my chance.
[/quote]
 
DeWalt have been many professional framers choice for many years over here.
I’ve owned a couple as well, including a couple of immensely powerhouses of their earlier drills (old ELU) they really hurt my arm a couple of times when using auger drill bits. [blink] But, the trigger lacked sensitivity, no MMC-like electronics and the chucks had loads of runout. Back then it was why I went with Makita’s drills. The miter saws was all good. Key points for me buying the Kapex was portability in combination with the special cut capacity. As other have mentioned, you will love the dust collection when first tried it [smile]
 
MarcV said:
Ok you seem to very knowledgable in electronics. If you had to guess why does North America seem to have motor issues in North America vs other countries. At least thats what it seems reading through various Festool forums? The Miter Saws are assembled in Germany so I assume they are built the same when it comes to the 110v version. Did they send most of the bad batches to North America or is there something different here in regards to our power?

Running a motor on 110v instead of 230v results it twice the current but that causes four times the heat generated in the windings. If the motor was originally designed for 230v and then modified for 110v there may be just sufficient cooling capacity for normal continuous operation and anything that increases the heat can cause failure.

Festool originally suggested that lots of stop start quick light cuts could be a problem.

This was rejected by the users as they considered that this was light duty use and couldn't possibly be the problem but in fact this is the worst case senario as this creates extra heat without time to cool down.

230v motors can also have problems because I think that the design, to keep the weight down, is thermally very borderline.
 
Rick Herrick said:
Can I assume that any new Kapex out there now is the newer model?  I am still confused about parts of this discussion, especially with regards to this saw and the package with the mobile cart that is coming out.  Is it a different version of the Kapex?

I don't have near the skills to justify the Kapex but the biggest reason I recently jumped on the FT train was for dust collection.  With my TS 55, CT26 and a couple of sanders, my shop is very, very much improved, dust collection wise.  I am trying to find a way to not use my table saw (DW745) and my current miter (Bosch 12" Axial glide), at all.  Yesterday I had to do just a few cuts on both and jeeeeez... the dust from those 2, especially the Bosch, are just unacceptable.

I would gladly pay $1500 for the Kapex if it really did come in almost dust free.
Hook that table saw up to a vacuum, you will be surprised at the difference.
I have a saw stop contractor saw, and I don’t like to use it w/o the vac.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
Rick Herrick said:
Thats very good to hear.  I had not realized the weight difference.  The Kapex is 47lbs and my Bosch is 65lbs.  Big diff for sure.

Rick, the weight is just one of the saving graces of the Kapex. Along with the minimum weight issue, is the way the Kapex folds up to such a small footprint. That makes moving it so much easier.

The Kapex replaces a couple of Milwaukee sliders. These saws were bullet proof as they were used for cutting everything from concrete to copper. There was never a reliability issue with the Milwaukee saws. The problem always centered upon moving them.

They're just plain heavy and worse yet, even when folded into their smallest profile, they were still unwieldy. Trying to get them through a 30"-32" door opening was difficult because you had to tilt the 60# load to get it between the door frame.

I can move the Kapex one-handed.
 
Hey [member=44099]Cheese[/member].  I can appreciate the moving issue.  I can't imagine some of the gymnastics some of you have to do when going on job sites. 

What I still don't understand is the packaging/marketing.  As I understand it, the REB model is available now, and the mobile unit is available now.  But if I want to get them together and save $500, I have to order it and not get it until August.  Is that right ?  I hope I have that wrong as it sounds pretty silly to me.  I just built a decent cart with wings for my Bosch so I may as well use that and just get the saw soon.  I wanted to use the cart as a selling point when putting the Bosch on Craigslist.  Decisions, decisions...
 
Rick Herrick said:
Hey [member=44099]Cheese[/member].  I can appreciate the moving issue.  I can't imagine some of the gymnastics some of you have to do when going on job sites. 

What I still don't understand is the packaging/marketing.  As I understand it, the REB model is available now, and the mobile unit is available now.  But if I want to get them together and save $500, I have to order it and not get it until August.  Is that right ?  I hope I have that wrong as it sounds pretty silly to me.  I just built a decent cart with wings for my Bosch so I may as well use that and just get the saw soon.  I wanted to use the cart as a selling point when putting the Bosch on Craigslist.  Decisions, decisions...

Rick I think you're understanding this correctly, I think the real issue is that Covid 19 entered at the wrong time and that any time schedules that were in concrete before this dilemma, are now up for grabs. If the pork industry in the USA is under siege, I think it's reasonable to assume that the manufacturing industry in Germany is also under siege.

Rest assured, the Kapex is a sweet saw and well worth its inflated price...it's pretty sweet.  [smile]
 
FWIW Rick...I'd just soldier along with the Bosch until this whole Covid 19 thing dissipates and we can get back to normal. So design and build what you need/want to build until August when the Kapex will finally possibly become available from Festool. It will be worth the wait.
Just make sure you get a 50 mm hose and a dedicated vac.
 
Bohdan said:
MarcV said:
Ok you seem to very knowledgable in electronics. If you had to guess why does North America seem to have motor issues in North America vs other countries. At least thats what it seems reading through various Festool forums? The Miter Saws are assembled in Germany so I assume they are built the same when it comes to the 110v version. Did they send most of the bad batches to North America or is there something different here in regards to our power?

Running a motor on 110v instead of 230v results it twice the current but that causes four times the heat generated in the windings. If the motor was originally designed for 230v and then modified for 110v there may be just sufficient cooling capacity for normal continuous operation and anything that increases the heat can cause failure.

Festool originally suggested that lots of stop start quick light cuts could be a problem.

This was rejected by the users as they considered that this was light duty use and couldn't possibly be the problem but in fact this is the worst case senario as this creates extra heat without time to cool down.

230v motors can also have problems because I think that the design, to keep the weight down, is thermally very borderline.

thanks for the explanation. Do you think that knowing this Festool was able to make the motor better at cooling itself with the quick stop and start cuts? or is it a design problem with the whole motor? Based on your knowledge would you be leary of the redesigned motor?
 
Although I already owned Festool tools, and was/am extremely pleased with their precision, performance and accuracy. I was very much against the idea of buying a Kapex. Even so, I had a secret admiration for the saw.
I had colleagues that owned them, and often watched other trades using the Kapex, and my opinions of the saw in use were always respectful, as it’s definitely different from other saws in class.
I was, and still am very happy with my Makita mitre saws, which still get used on a regular basis. So I adopted the train of thought, that I won’t buy a Kapex simply because we didn’t need another mitre saw.

Last year, one of our Makita mitre saws met an untimely end, this was caused 100% by the lack of thought, and stupidity of the person using the saw. That person no longer works for us.  [doh]

The saw was so badly damaged, I decided to strip it for parts.
So, we were definitely now in need of another mitre saw. I nearly took the easy option of another Makita but, I’d heard a new Kapex was due for release which included all new electronics etc, and the cause of failure in previous EB models had been removed.

You see the single thing that kept me from buying a Kapex years ago, were the failures that were reported.
I had spoken to many people first hand regarding their personal experiences of failures.
The stories were varied to say the least, one particular one that stands out was a chap from a flooring company, I met on a large commercial site.

He had two 110v EB’s on site, at tea break I asked him his thoughts on the saw, he was basically in love with them.
As he told me more, I became puzzled at his affection for the saw.

The company bought two saws together, after about a year, they were so impressed that they bought another pair.
So, this company owns four Kapex EB’s, and they cut nothing thicker than 20mm, often hardwood but all sorts of hard and soft wood, from 20mm flooring, down to little mouldings and finishing trims and beads.
One morning one of the saws started smoking and would no longer run  [sad]

It got repaired under warranty but, a little while later, one of the other saws did the exact same thing. Again repaired under warranty.
To cut a long story short, they had two more failures, I can’t remember which saws failed, or if it was the same two but, the chap told me that two of the saws had failed three time apiece!  [eek]

He did have one or two failures that happened out of warranty, although Festool were kind to him on the cost, he still had to foot the bills.

I asked him, after he’d explained if he would ever buy another Kapex, yes he said I love them to bits. I must admit I was a bit puzzled by this. He explained though, that the saws had all more than earned their keep, and even paying the out of warranty repairs, he was still very much quids in. (Quid=£1)
This chap and his staff are all experienced and certainly didn’t mistreat any of the saws that failed.

I have a good few similar stories involving EB’s in both 110v and 240v from seasoned tradesman, where their saw has randomly died, and read and heard other failure experiences.
The fist hand stories really did put me off buying the Kapex completely. I was even told that EB’s from October 2017 were fitted with new parts that removed any risk of a failure.
At the time, I took it with a pinch of salt but, recently found that this seems to be true. Quite possibly Festool’s way of guinea pig testing before releasing a new saw the REB?

So, my fear had now been cushioned a fair bit by the news of new parts fitted etc, and my secret curiosity was still there.
As luck would have it, the REB was announced, and just after it’s launch, I bought one with the UG base/cart and extension wings.

It’s had regular use now, cutting all sorts, from small profile trims, up to 12” x 2” sawn timber.
In my opinion, it really is a great saw, and I now understand why, even with the potential risk of the earlier saws taking a dive, why people still took a chance and bought them.
They are compact, light compared to other brands in class, are capable of cuts up to 120mm deep, and the accuracy and dust collection is unrivalled, it has also served me a lot of humble pie!  [doh]
If one of our other saws needed replacing, I would buy another Kapex without a second thought.

Festool could have handled the failures much better (in my opinion) blaming user error, abuse etc, was rubbing lots of salt into costly wounds. They now admit they knew, or know about the cause of failures in a certain batch of saws.
Apparently, it is a batch (number unknown or stated) of saws that have the potential to start smoking.
Although a lot of reports, the actual number of failures to the number of saws sold, percentage wise is very low. Also, owners of older saws may well never have to suffer a failure (fingers crossed)

So, I would say, to anybody thinking of buying the earlier EB model, to be on the safe side, buy a 2018 model, and if it fails, question Festool on their claim regarding October 2017 models having the new components fitted.

Or buy the new REB model which also has the upgraded components, and just crack on.
Obviously the REB is way too new, to tell what the durability might be but, I like to think that Festool have now learned a lesson in treating customers like mushrooms. If there were a failure of a REB developing a smoking habit, I would expect honesty and transparency from Festool.

Luckily, there hasn’t been the number of failures reported on here, that there once was. That’s good news for the owners, and good news for the members here, that are almost certainly fed up with reading them.  [wink]
 
MarcV said:
thanks for the explanation. Do you think that knowing this Festool was able to make the motor better at cooling itself with the quick stop and start cuts? or is it a design problem with the whole motor? Based on your knowledge would you be leary of the redesigned motor?

Don't know about the new motor but I have a Kapex that is still under warranty so it could be fitted with the new parts.
 
deepcreek said:
There isn't one.  I babied my Kapex.  The motor still went out after eight years.  I ended up with a new one.  It's worth it to me but may not be worth it to others.  I get it.  The Kapex is overpriced compared to similar miter saws.  It is in a class by itself.  It should not go up in a puff of smoke.  I still love it.  Kapex = Contradictions
Mine made it about the same as yours. While disappointed I just moved on and had it repaired. Not a whole lot of things make it on 8 years of continuous use. Many mention DeWalt, but your mileage will vary. I have had two of their nail guns fail within 1 year of ownership. One I repaired and it broke again 6 months later. My PC framer from the early 90's finally gave up last summer. I sent it off to DeWalt for repair and though it was slow to be repaired it is once again as good as new. Before repairing it I had looked at just about every brand and could not find one that I liked as much so I went with the repair. Had I known it was only going to be $60 I would have sent it off when it went out of service.
 
Cheese said:
FWIW Rick...I'd just soldier along with the Bosch until this whole Covid 19 thing dissipates and we can get back to normal. So design and build what you need/want to build until August when the Kapex will finally possibly become available from Festool. It will be worth the wait.
Just make sure you get a 50 mm hose and a dedicated vac.

  D36 Hose. Unless you are having good results with the 50 Cheese ?

Seth
 
SRSemenza said:
D36 Hose. Unless you are having good results with the 50 Cheese ?

Nope you're correct Seth, I should have said 3 meters of 36 mm hose.
 
Cheese said:
I should have said 3 meters of 36 mm hose.
Or, using the UG cart, put a MIDI below the saw and cut down the hose as short as you can without restricting movement of the head in any way or introducing tight bends. Shorter hose is IMHO better, it not only increases airflow but also shortens startup time (till airflow is at max) of the extraction.
 
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