EZ Stuff

[johnsonri]

now, I tried rip it with the Festool rail system and I
simply cant get perpendicular cuts

Maybe you need to work on technique. I have both E and F systems and can cut straight with both. So, make a decision on one of them and commit yourself to technique. Without the commitment, you are not going to cut straight with anything.

it seems
like all of the professional woodworkers here at the
FestoolOwnersGroup thinks the Festool is a much better
system

Well, you are on a Festool forum, what would you expect? Most people here are using Festool tools and like them very much...me included.

now, my only concern is to get perpendicular and square
cuts, so could anybody tell me how to do it with Festool
MFT and my TS75 plunge saw?

I spent good money on Festool MFT and rails and it
doesn't work.

Well, if you go out and spend your good money on an airplane, that doesn't mean that you will go right out and fly it...and not being able to fly that plane doesn't mean that the plane is junk. It just means that the wanna be pilot needs to be schooled.

There are good folks around here that will answer any questions relating to Festool tools or technique that you may have. You just need to ask. Your claim that "it doesn't work" is just without merit.

So, you should either ask your questions and begin learning technique on the Festool stuff, or go with EZ and learn technique on that. But, in either case, if something doesn't work, it's not the tool, it's the pilot.

 

[Per Swenson]

Nisse,

Welcome and how ya doin?

It is customary before ones first post to read a little first.

That is of course if you really are here for information.

If and after you use this fancy intertoob feature here, search
( don't worry I added the criteria for you),

Come on back and I betcha you will  phrase your question differently,

and  rabid Festoolians won't think poorly of your post.

Your real carpenter friend Per

 

[Chris Billman]

Hi all,  ....

If it walks like a troll, and it talks like a troll, then chances are pretty darn good it's a troll.

I'm just sayin....

 

[Per Swenson]

Ah Chris,

Of course I just sent Son Hunter down to the A&P,

Betcha can't guess what for.

Give you a hint.

[attachimg=#]

 

[johnsonri]

If and after you use this fancy intertoob feature here, search
( don't worry I added the criteria for you),

Per, that's just too cool!!! You are truely a gentlemen and a scholar. 

When you get a chance, can you create some searches for me too? While you're at it, can you reboot my PC whenever it gets slow or confused. 

 

[Dane]

Hmmm.....It seems that the OP has the same problems with english syntax as another non-native speaker on a thread of a similar subject.  Just sayin....quacks like a duck.

 

[Per Swenson]

Thanks Rey,

I have gotten better at bootin the confusion out of stuff. ;D

Per

 

[Nisse]

guess I can build jigs and support under the rails,
but then I'll have to do it for each and every dimension
and when ripping 3-5m lengths it takes me to much time

also I bought the MFT in order to avoid building support
and jigs all the time, if you cant cut perpendicular without
special support and jigs than it doesn't work,

as somebody stipulated above in this thread, cant fly with
a submarine, not even if its painted yellow

have been using the MFT for the last 2 years and it seems
to me like its just not constructed for solid wood

anybody tried the TS75 on the EurekaZone rails,
how well does it work?

Nils

 

[johnsonri]

have been using the MFT for the last 2 years and it seems
to me like its just not constructed for solid wood

If you've got two years in and you are still at this level, you might just be better off going to Ikea instead of trying any of this stuff yourself.

 

[roadking06]

In before Matthew comes back and reports nils and dino share he same IP address.

 

[Per Swenson]

Tell me

what is this sin tax?

P.

;D

 

[tbellemare]

I've used the TS 75 (w/ standard blade) and MFT 800 to turn 10/4 mahogany into square table legs that need almost no sanding.

If you think about it, you have to have at least one flat surface on the slab before you start ripping because you need a reference surface for the guide rail. It doesn't have to be perfect - just enough coplanar parts that the guide rail can sit on them as you make the series of cuts. The bottom of the rough piece has to have enough touch points to have, at the very least, one point touching the table for each leg piece. Then, those cuts will all be parallel and the pieces cut off can be used to support the guide rail as you run out of real estate for the guide rail to sit on.

As you cut the first piece, put it at the uncut end and continue that until you make the last cut. This way the guide rail will remain in the same configuration from first cut to last cut. If you cut a piece that didn't have a touch point as discussed in the first paragraph, don't use it as fill in support.

Now that you have a series of parallel cuts, you can easily make the cuts that are normal to the first two cuts on each piece.

The guide rail, when properly supported, will ensure either TS cuts straight and normal to the rail.

Tom

 

[Brice Burrell]

Nils, sorry to hear you are having problems with your MFT. If you're looking for help with these problems check out Per's link to the search and if you don't find the answers to your questions there post your questions in the All Tools and Accessories section. The members here are very helpful and I'm sure they'll be able to answer any questions you might have.

If you don't want help with the your problems and you've decided to try the EZ system by all means go for it. I have no experience with the EZ system so I can't offer any advice. However, some of the members here have it and maybe they could help you, post your EZ questions in the Other Tools and Accessories section. If the members here can't help you can try posting over at Sawmill Creek in the EurekaZone (EZ-Smart System) section. This is a section on the Saw Mill site that is dedicated to the EZ system, I'm sure you will find all the answers you need there. Good Luck.

To all other FOG members there has been too many negative posts on this site lately. Please try to keep your post more positive and constructive or maybe don't post at all if you don't have any quality content to add to the discussion. If you think a poster is a troll why reply at all to their posts, ignore them and they will go away.

This site was known for its friendly, helpful members, as of late we have worked very hard to try to change that perception. How about if we try to regain that reputation.

 

[Nisse]

hard to understand what Ikea has to do with
Festool MFT and its malfunction

or Roadrunner06 and his IP address nonsense

why cant you people concentrate on the hard
facts and only facts?

some time ago I needed to use the MFT fence
in the upward position and guess what I discovered,

it wasn't perpendicular to the table top

sure, I made my own fence but all this made me
to consider the EurekaZone rails and their
powerbench

still like my TS75, so just wanted to get
some serious opinion about the EurekaZone
product line

above I stipulated a few serious question
about the Festool MFT and its malfunction
and the honorable members of this forum
just try to explain to me how bad woodworker
I am, please give me some constructive facts,
tell me the alu side profiles and the fence
are perpendicular not about the Ikea and Kamprad
and Tetra Pak and Rausing and other mambo jumbo

now both the Rausing and Kamprad are extremly
competent people but it hardly helps me to
get some perpendicular cuts

or let me know immediately if I am wrong?

it would be much better to put some pressure
on Festool to construct better MFT and
replace all the bad ones out there

Nils

 

[d.epstein]

I've used the TS 75 (w/ standard blade) and MFT 800 to turn 10/4 mahogany into square table legs that need almost no sanding.

If you think about it, you have to have at least one flat surface on the slab before you start ripping because you need a reference surface for the guide rail. It doesn't have to be perfect - just enough planar parts that the guide rail can sit on them as you make the series of cuts. The bottom of the rough piece has to have enough touch points to have, at the very least, one point touching the table for each leg piece. Then, those cuts will all be parallel and the pieces cut off can be used to support the guide rail as you run out of real estate for the guide rail to sit on.

As you cut the first piece, put it at the uncut end and continue that until you make the last cut. This way the guide rail will remain in the same configuration from first cut to last cut. If you cut a piece that didn't have a touch point as discussed in the first paragraph, don't use it as fill in support.

Now that you have a series of parallel cuts, you can easily make the cuts that are normal to the first two cuts on each piece.

The guide rail, when properly supported, will ensure either TS cuts straight and normal to the rail.

Tom

Tom,
Nice post.

You nailed one of the problems.

david.

 

[Julian Tracy]

Sure sounds like an imposter to me....

only three posts and all about Eureka zone?  Sounds like Dino's new gorilla marketing program in action to me.

Julian

 

[d.epstein]

Sure sounds like an imposter to me....

only three posts and all about Eureka zone?  Sounds like Dino's new gorilla marketing program in action to me.

Julian

Julian.
Read Brice's post.
If you can't help Nils, don't attack Dino.

d,

 

[Daviddubya]

Nils,

I hope you got some good information from the search that Per provided as well as the post from Tom.

I'm a little confused about how you are using the MFT to rip 2" strips from a 4' 9" board (or is it 3 to 5 meters?).  The MFT1080, which is what I assume you have, is 45" long.  So I guess you are using the MFT as a support for your work piece, and using a guide rail clamped to the work piece to make the cut.  It would be impossible to cut a 4' 9" piece using the MFT fence and guide rail, even if the fence were positioned parallel to the short side of the MFT.  There are some threads here on the FOG about ways to rip narrow stock using guide rails and a TS55 or TS75.  Per's search should have pointed you to some of those.  The main point in many of those threads is the need to provide adequate support under the work piece on both sides of the cut and under the guide rail, making certain the guide rail is flat on the piece being cut.

I'm also confused about your comment saying you "needed to use the MFT fence in the upward position".  I am having trouble envisioning what you were doing, and what you expected from the rail in a vertical position.  The way the MFT guide rail is attached to the bracket, I cannot see how you would expect the rail to be perpendicular to the table top in the raised or vertical position.

Perhaps you could post some photographs of your setup so we can offer some advice to you on your specific applications?

I hope you will focus on the hard facts yourself, and provide us with some more information about the specifics of what you are doing, so that we can help you.

 

[greg mann]

Nils,

I agree with Dave on this. Post some pictures of the setup that is not working for you and there are any number of folks that can give you advice on what is going wrong. Also that way, if any of us have misjudged you, and your intentions, you will get the last laugh.

 

[Nisse]

Nils,

I hope you got some good information from the search that Per provided as well as the post from Tom.

I'm a little confused about how you are using the MFT to rip 2" strips from a 4' 9" board (or is it 3 to 5 meters?).  The MFT1080, which is what I assume you have, is 45" long.  So I guess you are using the MFT as a support for your work piece, and using a guide rail clamped to the work piece to make the cut.  It would be impossible to cut a 4' 9" piece using the MFT fence and guide rail, even if the fence were positioned parallel to the short side of the MFT.  There are some threads here on the FOG about ways to rip narrow stock using guide rails and a TS55 or TS75.  Per's search should have pointed you to some of those.  The main point in many of those threads is the need to provide adequate support under the work piece on both sides of the cut and under the guide rail, making certain the guide rail is flat on the piece being cut.

I'm also confused about your comment saying you "needed to use the MFT fence in the upward position".  I am having trouble envisioning what you were doing, and what you expected from the rail in a vertical position.  The way the MFT guide rail is attached to the bracket, I cannot see how you would expect the rail to be perpendicular to the table top in the raised or vertical position.

Perhaps you could post some photographs of your setup so we can offer some advice to you on your specific applications?

I hope you will focus on the hard facts yourself, and provide us with some more information about the specifics of what you are doing, so that we can help you.

hi Daviddubya,

most of that search path of Per was known to me already

sure, when ripping 3-5m long planks you have to use rails
only and clamp them to the wood that will be ripped, the
problem is you need perfect support on the left side under
the rail and even then it works only in theory

now, the fence and the rail

not sure if you are using the MFT yourself or not, but the
fence can be applied on the table so it is only 10 mm or so
high or you can rise it 90 degree and the alu profile will
now be approximately 30 mm high

when using it in this high position it is not perpendicular
to the MDF table top

also, when you try to adjust it for square against the
rail its almost certain you'll bend it

why do you want me to have the rail in the upward position?
I am talking about the fence in the upward position when suddenly
you convert my fence to the rail in the vertical position?

then again, the alu profiles along the sides of the MFT are
not perpendicular either

ripping same width or less of solid wood as above but shorter
lengths of 20" to 40" on the Festool bridge always require different
kind of support and jigs and most likely it still won't be
perpendicular and square

my intention is to get a better rail system for my Festool
TS75 circular saw and square and perpendicular cuts

why are some people so upset over the idea of using a
Festool TS75 on EurekaZone rails?

is EurekaZone rails a bad product or are some of Festool
users just afraid of getting a better rails for TS75?

if bad, please tell me what's bad with it, same way
I described the malfunctions of my Festool MFT

Nils