Factory stops for MFT/3

[mbcabinetmaker]

I would like to order an additional set of the factory set stops for my MFT/3 so that I can use my 55 inch rail. I do not see them listed as an accessory. What is the part no. and how do I go about ordering them?

 

[peter halle]

Before I look them up, you are looking to be able to set up a rail for cutting the long ways on the table?

Peter

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

I'm not entirely sure if this link will work, but here is a link to our electronic parts catalog for the MFT/3.  You would need parts #3 and #4 in the diagram.

3   772405   Threaded pin M6 x 10   $0.77 USD
4 437377 Feather key                $2.42 USD

Two of each would be required.  They can be order from our service department.

PS - Sorry, Peter, if you were already looking them up.  [unsure]

 

[peter halle]

Gee thanks Shane   [big grin]  I'm going to send my avatar to find you!!

He is correct.

This is not directed to the original poster at all, if you want to look up parts here is the procedure:

www.festoolusa.com

click on support.

leftmost column (column heading assistance)

last thing in the list - electron...

Then go search.

I will wager a bet that this system is not of Festool USA's design.  But that is how it is done.

Peter

 

[mbcabinetmaker]

Thanks for the help guys. I will order ASAP.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

By the way, I failed to welcome you to the forum.  So, welcome!  [big grin]

Peter, not sure I can say that I'm afraid of your fur ball  [tongue]  Looks about like my boxer... more likely to lick you to death.  [wink] 

And, the parts catalog is maintained by Germany using a third party software product.  I hate to admit that I don't know how to create a direct link that actually works.  Guess that's something I need to figure out.

 

[HowardH]

qwas dogs could work too.

 

[jstockman]

I'm not entirely sure if this link will work, but here is a link to our electronic parts catalog for the MFT/3.  You would need parts #3 and #4 in the diagram.

3   772405   Threaded pin M6 x 10   $0.77 USD
4 437377 Feather key                $2.42 USD

Two of each would be required.  They can be order from our service department.

PS - Sorry, Peter, if you were already looking them up.  [unsure]

Shane,

I would like to order these stops.  I need to cut pieces larger than 24 inches and want to move my guides on the MFT3 table to the short side.  I went ot FestoolUSA, but could not figure out how to order.  Can you help?

Thx,

Jim

 

[harry_]

I am not Shane, but think you just need to get hold of a dealer. There are several here among us

 

[peter halle]

I am also not Shane, but as Harry said you can contact your dealer, OR, you can call Festool USA tomorrow at 1 888 337-8600 and tell them that you want to order parts.

Peter

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

I am Shane!  [cool]

What they said...  [smile]

 

[tbellemare]

If you look at this page on the Festool USA website, I think you'll find that they call the stop, a "Feather Key", 437377, and the screw that secures it, a "Threaded pin", 772405.

Generally, the people that answer the phones at Festool are very nice and accommodating and you can order spare parts without dealer intervention. However, if you have a good dealer, they should be happy to take care of it for you. It's a normal part of the value proposition.

Tom

BTW:

While I was preparing this post, Shane posted...

Please enjoy your time off, Shane! I think it's well deserved.

Incidentally, I have never had anyone in my lineage live to Centenarian status. That's really something, Dude!

 

[jstockman]

Guys,

Thx a lot.  I'll order manana.

JIm [smile]

 

[jstockman]

Guys,

I just got the stops and the threaded pins in the mail.  I went out to install it thinking I would measure from the end of the v channel on each end of the long side of the MFT3 and intall them.  Intuitively I first took a look at the factory install ones.  I measured from each edge of the v channel at both ends and low and behold, they were not the same measurement.

How do I accurately install the new parts so the rail is square?

Jim  [huh]

 

[Brice Burrell]

Guys,

I just got the stops and the threaded pins in the mail.  I went out to install it thinking I would measure from the end of the v channel on each end of the long side of the MFT3 and intall them.  Intuitively I first took a look at the factory install ones.  I measured from each edge of the v channel at both ends and low and behold, they were not the same measurement.

How do I accurately install the new parts so the rail is square?

Jim  [huh]

You can install the rail on the table perfectly square then install the stops.

 

[jstockman]

Bruce,

I'll give is a try tomorrow.

Thx for the tip

jim

 

[Corwin]

Guys,

I just got the stops and the threaded pins in the mail.  I went out to install it thinking I would measure from the end of the v channel on each end of the long side of the MFT3 and intall them.  Intuitively I first took a look at the factory install ones.  I measured from each edge of the v channel at both ends and low and behold, they were not the same measurement.

How do I accurately install the new parts so the rail is square?

Jim  [huh]

I agree with Brice:

You can install the rail on the table perfectly square then install the stops.

Just so you understand, the process you were attempting would also work if you measure accurately -- but it is easier to do it the way Brice said.  When placed correctly, the two stops will not be equal distant from the ends of your profiles, but rather, those distances will differ.  If you examine the guide rail brackets, you may notice that the base portion -- that portion that makes contact with these stops -- is the same for either bracket, and only the upper portion differs.  Also, you will see that the guide rail doesn't sit centered over these base portions, but instead, it is offset somewhat.  This is the reason the stops are not located the same distance from the ends of the profiles.  If you were to place the stops at an equal distance form the ends, your guide rail would sit at an angle to the table.  

Now that you know that the bases of these brackets are the same, you may begin to wonder why Festool installed the stops as they did, requiring that you slide the brackets onto the profiles from the far end of the table.  It certainly would have made life easier to have those stops on the other side of the brackets so you didn't have to slide the brackets so far -- especially if you leave your rail installed on the hinged bracket.  Well, that's what I though a few years ago, and so I chose to be a maverick and placed the stops on the other side.  Oh, this just makes so much more sense.  But, it does leave one wonder, "why didn't Festool do it this way?"  Well, there just doesn't seem to be any logical reason.

 

[Wood_Junkie]

I love those feather keys.  As Bob can attest, I've gotten about 10 or so.  Super secure for attaching jigs, boxes, and what-not to the MFT profile.

Anyway, just another tiny tidbit.  I think it's customary to have the non-pivoting rail holder just slightly offset from the "relaxed" guide rail position.  The puts a tiny bit of torque and tension on the rail when it's lowered onto the "tooth" of the holder.  This keeps the rail held, and also negates the miniscule side-to-side play within the guide rail slot.

I've found the thickness of a popsicle stick between the rail holder and the feather key is sufficient when you're squaring things up and positioning the feather key.
Remove the popsicle stick, and slide the holder over to the feather key.  When you lower your guide rail, you'll have to push it slightly to the side to seat it on the "tooth".  That's the tensioned position.

Do others do this, or some other method?

 

[Corwin]

...
Anyway, just another tiny tidbit.  I think it's customary to have the non-pivoting rail holder just slightly offset from the "relaxed" guide rail position.  The puts a tiny bit of torque and tension on the rail when it's lowered onto the "tooth" of the holder.  This keeps the rail held, and also negates the miniscule side-to-side play within the guide rail slot.

I've found the thickness of a popsicle stick between the rail holder and the feather key is sufficient when you're squaring things up and positioning the feather key.
Remove the popsicle stick, and slide the holder over to the feather key.  When you lower your guide rail, you'll have to push it slightly to the side to seat it on the "tooth".  That's the tensioned position.

Do others do this, or some other method?

You don't have to reposition your stops to accomplish this.  It can also be done at the hinged-bracket to guide-rail connection.  Just tighten the bolts with the rail set slightly askew.

 

[richk]

Just got the MFT/3 and had noticed the play in the front part of the guide rail. Even having squared up the rail with the fence, my cuts were not square, which I have attributed to slop in the mating of the non-pivoting rail holder support tooth and the channel of the guide rail. I will confess I thought it might be a manufacturing problem as there is definitely a gap and the guide rail can be shifted side to side.

The tip to offset the front rail holder is therefore a crucial missing link, I had not previously stumbled upon though I have done a lot of poking around the forum. Thanks for bringing it up!

That said, I want to confirm the positioning of the front rail holder. As I read it, the holder should be moved to the left a bit, which means the guide rail is nudged to the left also, removing the wiggle in the guide rail. Is that right?

thnx
Rich