Fakir wallpaper Perforator

[Saskataper]

Has anybody used the fakir wallpaper perforator?
I might be bidding on a job to remove wallpaper from the common areas of a seven-story condominium and am curious to know how it works.

 

[TOOLTOWN]

We have only sold a couple, but the customers seem to like them

They are much better than those cheapo plastic handheld gizmos that most big box stores sell.  They cover more area more quickly, have an adjustable depth setting, and (in my opinion most importantly) don't make that retched squeaking noise.

Fakir Wallpaper Perforator

Ken

 

[RonMiller]

Is the point of the product to put holes in the paper so steam vapor can more easily get in there or ???

 

[TOOLTOWN]

Yes, it puts holes in the paper, then different methods can be used to reduce the bond between the paper and the wall.

The most common method of removing the bond is by using a dedicated wallpaper solvent.  I am not sure about steam, but it seems like another possible method of removal.

In short, it creates holes that allow for "something" to get in between the paper and wall.

Ken

 

[ericbuggeln]

I have been removing wallpaper for fifteen years and find the best method is

Perforate wall paper - I use the Big box gizmo and I have no complaints. If you perforate too deep you will go into the paper face of the drywall and then you have to compound. There is an exact amount of pressure you want to use and only practice will help you. If you create too many perforated lines, then the wallpaper will come off in little pieces and take forever, not ot mention be really messy. The idea is to remove sheets, which is not always possible. I have played with the Perforator at Tool Nut and the concept seems good. I don't know how much it costs, but the Big Box store ones are $5 and I'm still on my first one ever.

DIF - Next you want to use DIF concentrate, not gel in a paint roller tray. It is very important when rolling liquid to start at the baseboard and move to the ceiling, otherwise all the liquid squirts out. In a 12 x 12 room you would want to roll two walls and then start on the first wall. Before you start the second wall, re roll to moisten. At this point the DIF will get into the holes and start chemically reacting with the adhesive. As far as mixing the DIF, it's time to break the rules. I mix mine until I sneeze. Once I sneeze, it is now much stronger then recommended and will work much faster. I'm an American and don't like to wait around.

Steamers - the first thing you do, before perforating is actually filling up the steamers and plugging them in, separate outlets preferably in separate rooms. They trip breakers frequently. They take about 45 minutes to heat up. Steamers are very inexpensive. I use Wagner models from HD and have lasted forever. They come with two heads. Throw the large one in the trash, immediately.

As far as technique this is the worst work ever so get ready. I use a 6" putty knife and cut up bath towels. The bath towels have a scuffy texture to them which is good at mopping up the wet adhesive. Much better then painters rags. As I remove sections of paper, I take steaming hot bath towel and wipe any residual adhesive away. Walls will dry just fine. This means many trips to and from the sink.

I always do two guys per room with two steamers. I have found that you can get DIF on hardwood as long as you clean up after each wall. It's not a precise action, rolling liquid. The concept is to have the DIF working while the steamers are working and get in and out as fast as possible.

A job like the poster comments on would be pure hell. I hope you have some dedicated employees. I'm still waiting for someone to let me test drive the perforator? Eric

 

[ericbuggeln]

I forgot, bust out your CT and RO 150 with 180 and sand the walls. I exclusively use Zinsser BullsEye 123 primer. It has a "sealer" component that seals in residual adhesive that sometimes can't be seen or felt. I always end up compounding and use the CT/RO150 with 220 grit to finish that. I blow out the CT and filters with a leaf blower every time I use the CT to lengthen life. Eric

 

[Saskataper]

Thanks for the advice! Now it sounds kind off scary.
It's a building I'm working in right now putting up a tray ceiling into a room in one of the penthouse units and the owner told us about the job (us being my brother who's a painter, and me a drywall guy) they haven't decided if they are going to just paint over the wallpaper or remove it, repair any problems and paint it. I think painting it would be a mistake especially considering its a pretty high end condo. We figured it would add up to between 4 and 5000 sqft of floor space witch isn't to bad but the wallpaper is returned back to the window and door frames which there are a lot of, so there aren't many large areas of wallpaper but lots of tricky bits and its hard to say what's underneath. It has the potential to be a really good paying job though.

 

[sw1211]

I prefer to use a garden sprayer to apply the solvent after perforating. Don't rush it, re-wet it several times and you'll get it off in big pieces.  Don't use a little hand held bottle, you'll get hand cramps from all the trigger pumping. I've heard equal parts vinegar and warm water work, but I've never tried that.  Steamers work well for stubborn areas or heaven forbid if you have vinyl wallpaper, I've used the steamer to take off the vinyl layer and then the solvent for the paper backing.  This scoring tool from Lowes was horrible, broke apart before I finished one room, this model has held up great.

 

[ericbuggeln]

If its a two part paper, meaning show face and adhesive backing then it will be way easier. Once you get the show face off the DIF and a 6" putty knife will blow through the adhesive backing. Try to see if they will let you peel a little piece off and you will be able to tell. Vinyl is one piece.

Where you are taking a huge risk is on how much compounding you will have to do, bc no one can predict that. I usually do one room or so, so the risk is low, but it sounds like you got a lot to do. For a 12 x 12 room I charge $400 and can "usually" do two rooms that size a day with my assistant. That doesn't include compounding, sanding, priming or painting, just removal. You win some, you lose some, Eric

 

[ericbuggeln]

I use the same scorer as Steve, for fifteen years, Eric

 

[John Stevens]

they haven't decided if they are going to just paint over the wallpaper

One of the previous owners of my home did that...in every room...it's an awful thing to do to a future owner.

Regards,

John

 

[Saskataper]

If its a two part paper, meaning show face and adhesive backing then it will be way easier. Once you get the show face off the DIF and a 6" putty knife will blow through the adhesive backing. Try to see if they will let you peel a little piece off and you will be able to tell. Vinyl is one piece.

Where you are taking a huge risk is on how much compounding you will have to do, bc no one can predict that. I usually do one room or so, so the risk is low, but it sounds like you got a lot to do. For a 12 x 12 room I charge $400 and can "usually" do two rooms that size a day with my assistant. That doesn't include compounding, sanding, priming or painting, just removal. You win some, you lose some, Eric

Thanks again,
By compounding your talking about the drywall repair, that's the easy part for me as I'm a taper by trade and I'd hit it with my Planex rather than an RO but it might be a good excuse to get an RTS. Another big part of the job is containment and minimal disruption to the owners, so it would have to be virtually dust free and low odour.

 

[ericbuggeln]

The ZipWall System combined with the Festool System is unbeatable, Eric