You might be able to use the saw on the same circuit as the CT (although that might be pushing even a 20 amp circuit beyond its limits), but I doubt you'd be able to use the auto on/off plugin on the CT with tablesaw just from the standpoint that the saw draws more amps than would be permissible for the CT.
Feedback Please - Sawstop Jobsite or Bosch Reaxx?
- Thread starter Dan Clark
- Start date
Dan Clark said:
Two easy options.
Almost certainly your electrical panel will have numerous 110 circuits. You can easily find double up breakers. These breakers take the place of one full size breaker but have two switches on them and allow you to run two 110 volt lines from the one breaker spot. Create extra space in your panel for an additional 220 volt breaker.
Or, take the existing 220 volt breaker and have it feed a subpanel next to your main panel. Then run lots of extra 110 and 220 circuits to your garage.
Tandem breakers are what they are called at Home Depot. You can fit two circuits into the space of one breaker. And create extra space to put in another 220 breaker in the box.http://www.homedepot.com/b/Electric...Circuit-Breakers-Tandem-Breakers/N-5yc1vZbm0f
On the contractor saw, it is possible to build a rolling platform for it with 4 ball bearing swiveling/locking casters. It would raise it about an inch off the floor (I just finished one for a drill press). The only downside is you'll have to reach around to the back wheels to lock/unlock rather than a simple pump with a foot pedal, so not as elegant, but it will roll just as easily. Just mentioning it as another option in case the contractor saw is still in the running.
You need to add a 220V circuit and get that model saw. You can get some "skinnies" and add a little more capacity to your box. A tablesaw is not something that runs 24x7 nor is on for any length of time to matter in most cases. I think you will be disappointed with the 110V version.
Hi Dan,
A few final comments (I hope):
- Putting a contractor saw on a shop-made base might result in increased vibration on the table. The ind. mobile base (or the converted base) is engaged only when you pump the saw up to move it. You can put a coin on its edge on the prof. model and turn on the saw, the coin stays on its edge.
- 220v is preferred to 110v, but 110v is workable.
- This outfeed table keeps the outfeed table level with the saw's tabletop regardless of the levelness of the floor/ground:http://lumberjocks.com/projects/151530
Chuck
-
A few final comments (I hope):
- Putting a contractor saw on a shop-made base might result in increased vibration on the table. The ind. mobile base (or the converted base) is engaged only when you pump the saw up to move it. You can put a coin on its edge on the prof. model and turn on the saw, the coin stays on its edge.
- 220v is preferred to 110v, but 110v is workable.
- This outfeed table keeps the outfeed table level with the saw's tabletop regardless of the levelness of the floor/ground:http://lumberjocks.com/projects/151530
Chuck
-
Randy, Russel, Raj, Jim, and Chuck,
Good stuff keeps on comin'! [smile]
At this point, I'm convinced that the best option for me is a Sawstop cabinet saw. It has lots of positives - usability, quality, great fence, super mobility (with the ICS mobile base), good to very good dust collection, etc, etc that are well recognized. On the other hand, it's pricey (especially with the 3HP motor), it has to fit into the space I have available, and it has to work with my CT.
To touch on those points and the other good stuff you've brought up:
Thanks,
Dan.
Good stuff keeps on comin'! [smile]
At this point, I'm convinced that the best option for me is a Sawstop cabinet saw. It has lots of positives - usability, quality, great fence, super mobility (with the ICS mobile base), good to very good dust collection, etc, etc that are well recognized. On the other hand, it's pricey (especially with the 3HP motor), it has to fit into the space I have available, and it has to work with my CT.
To touch on those points and the other good stuff you've brought up:
- Pricey - Yep it's pricey, especially the 3HP version of the Pro - $3,254 with the mobile base and other popular options. But, I decided that it's time to treat myself. Even if it's extravagant.
- 3HP - In general, it looks like there is general agreement that, while 1.75 HP may be OK, 3HP is better. 1.75 will probably meet most of my needs, but there is this niggle in the back of my mind - that I'll need 3HP at some point. And then workarounds will be a hassle and increase stress. (I've already had one heart attack caused by stress.)
Bottom line: My gut reaction is that 3HP saw is the best choice. Pay now and not regret later.
- 220V - The head scratcher for me was how to get 220 to the saw. The good news is that I already have an extra circuit that I'd forgotten about! (It's been a few years since it was installed, but I'm embarrassed about forgetting this.)
After examining the panel and conduit this morning, I found the extra circuit! [smile] It's 220V/30 Amp with nice 10 gauge wire in the conduit, with a GFCI 30 amp circuit breaker. Now it's a matter of extending the conduit by about 30 feet, adding 30 amp socket and surface mount electrical box, and replacing the Sawstop's electrical cord.
"Replacing the Sawstop's electrical cord"? Say what!?! This morning I had a chance to understand Sawstop's excellent customer service! I chatted with Trent for about 15 minutes. Besides answering my questions about circuit breakers and amperage, he mentioned that I could replace the power cord withOUT voiding the warranty!
After picking myself off the floor and asking for confirmation, he pointed out that several users do this. Making and connecting my own power cord should be very simple and inexpensive. Something like a 15' cord provide much more flexibility to move the saw around.
- 36" Pro cut down? Trent mentioned that some users who have space problems buy the 36" saw (PCS31230-TGP236) and cut down the rails. Apparently this adds only $170 to the price and it gives you the T-Glide fence. Seems like a great option.
- Chuck, that outfeed table looks like a great design.
Thanks,
Dan.
jmhockey23
Member
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2016
- Messages
- 14
Dan Clark said:
I have the Sawstop 1.75 HP PCS and I love it. However, I wish I would have just gotten the 3 HP motor on the front end. I'm currently considering and will likely upgrade to the 3 HP motor within the next 6 months. Which that is a nice option if you don't want to get the 3 HP right away. I had a Bosch jobsite table saw prior and the cabinet saw is a dream in comparison. Happy shopping!
Haha...all this fuss about nothing! [tongue] If you already have 10 ga. wire, continue running the same size the rest of the length of the circuit, but put a 20A breaker on the circuit, that's all the saw needs. If it draws more, something is wrong and you want that breaker tripping. If you later need to repurpose that circuit for something bigger, the wire is already there, just swap the breaker and you're in business.
I didn't know about cutting down the rails (it would help if I unboxed it), but that's good to know, thank you. I didn't need the 36" but bought it for the fence.
I agree with you...buy once cry once. You'll not be replacing this purchase for quite some time. So the next update will read "order placed"?
I didn't know about cutting down the rails (it would help if I unboxed it), but that's good to know, thank you. I didn't need the 36" but bought it for the fence.
I agree with you...buy once cry once. You'll not be replacing this purchase for quite some time. So the next update will read "order placed"?
JMHockey and Raj,
Thanks for the feedback. That makes sense about the 20A circuit breaker and they are not difficult to replace.
I've always been a buy once guy. But that usually means lots of up-front evaluation of your needs and indepth investigation.
At this point, it looks like there are two steps left - re-measuring everything just to make sure it'll fit. And selling some tools - DW745, tile saw, and MIG laser. My honey said, "Sell tools first. Then buy new saw." To keep her happy, I'm selling tools.
Thanks for the great feedback.
Regards,
Dan.
Thanks for the feedback. That makes sense about the 20A circuit breaker and they are not difficult to replace.
I've always been a buy once guy. But that usually means lots of up-front evaluation of your needs and indepth investigation.
At this point, it looks like there are two steps left - re-measuring everything just to make sure it'll fit. And selling some tools - DW745, tile saw, and MIG laser. My honey said, "Sell tools first. Then buy new saw." To keep her happy, I'm selling tools.
Thanks for the great feedback.
Regards,
Dan.
Dan Clark said:
Your wife is a great advisor.
As my shop is really a garage, every purchase of a large new tool is always accompanied by the sale of an existing machine. E.g. the Domino Joiner replaced the Mortising machine; a dust collector in place of the CT26; a new thickness planer preceded the sale of the old thickness planer, etc. The recovery of space is more important than the sales proceeds of the old tools in my case. And of course, the SawStop has replaced the Ridgid contractor saw.
Chuck
Jim and Kevin,
Thanks for the feedback. Regarding cutting hotdogs, I have some nice knives and cutting boards in the kitchen. So I don't need another gadget for cutting hotdogs. [smile] On the other hand, I had a bad accident with a belt sander (36 grit belt) that took two months to completely heal.
Sawstop Pro 36" 2HP is mostly installed in my garage shop (see pic below). However, I'm wrestling with one major issue - whether to shorten the fence rails.
As you can see from the pic below, the saw fits pretty well except for the huge rails sticking out to the right. That rail makes it difficult to maneuver the saw in the tight constraints of my garage shop. One slip and a car get scratched.
I'm wrestling with how so solve this problem. Given that I have a Kapex and a TS 55 with a bunch of Festool rails up to 3000mm, I'm trying to figure out how much I'll need the Sawstop extension tables. And therefore how much to cut off the rails.
QUESTIONS:
For folks with a larger tablesaw, a TS55 + MFT, and miter saw, what do use your table saw for? Specifically, where the tablesaw with extension table is much easier, safer, and/or faster than a TS55 + MFT or miter saw? How much do you need the right extension table?
The Sawstop WITHOUT extension table gives about 18" of ripping ability to the right from blade to fence. What do you cut that would require wider cuts AND that you could NOT cut using an MFT + TS55?
Other than the difficulty with selling a rail-shortened Sawstop sometime in the future, do you see any other downsides?
Thanks and regards,
Dan.
P.s. I bought the 36" version to get the professional fence. I would have happily bought the smaller version if it was available with the pro fence.
Thanks for the feedback. Regarding cutting hotdogs, I have some nice knives and cutting boards in the kitchen. So I don't need another gadget for cutting hotdogs. [smile] On the other hand, I had a bad accident with a belt sander (36 grit belt) that took two months to completely heal.
Sawstop Pro 36" 2HP is mostly installed in my garage shop (see pic below). However, I'm wrestling with one major issue - whether to shorten the fence rails.
As you can see from the pic below, the saw fits pretty well except for the huge rails sticking out to the right. That rail makes it difficult to maneuver the saw in the tight constraints of my garage shop. One slip and a car get scratched.
I'm wrestling with how so solve this problem. Given that I have a Kapex and a TS 55 with a bunch of Festool rails up to 3000mm, I'm trying to figure out how much I'll need the Sawstop extension tables. And therefore how much to cut off the rails.
QUESTIONS:
For folks with a larger tablesaw, a TS55 + MFT, and miter saw, what do use your table saw for? Specifically, where the tablesaw with extension table is much easier, safer, and/or faster than a TS55 + MFT or miter saw? How much do you need the right extension table?
The Sawstop WITHOUT extension table gives about 18" of ripping ability to the right from blade to fence. What do you cut that would require wider cuts AND that you could NOT cut using an MFT + TS55?
Other than the difficulty with selling a rail-shortened Sawstop sometime in the future, do you see any other downsides?
Thanks and regards,
Dan.
P.s. I bought the 36" version to get the professional fence. I would have happily bought the smaller version if it was available with the pro fence.
Attachments
I would try to avoid cutting the rails. Use it for a while and see how it goes. Try moving things around. Maybe the table saw will work better in different location?
Can you pad the end of the rails?
Do you have a stand alone router table? If yes, maybe you could add a router table extension to the table saw instead of the standard extension table and get rid of the separate router table. You might save some space that way.
Looks like you will still be able to store the Festools under the table saw.
Can you pad the end of the rails?
Do you have a stand alone router table? If yes, maybe you could add a router table extension to the table saw instead of the standard extension table and get rid of the separate router table. You might save some space that way.
Looks like you will still be able to store the Festools under the table saw.
This might help too. Dave walks you through a workshop planner on the Grizzly Tools website.
How to woodshop in my garage
How to woodshop in my garage
