Festool 1400 router
- Thread starter Janmara1
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
- Messages
- 8,426
Let me answer it this way... We have a 30-day money back guarantee. Get it, try it out and see for yourself if you can control it working freehand to a level that meets your expectations. If it doesn't work for you, just return it.
I would say that there no particular difficulty in using the OF 1400 freehand versus any other router.
I'm sure some of the forum members will hop in to offer their opinions and feedback on controlability.
I would say that there no particular difficulty in using the OF 1400 freehand versus any other router.
I'm sure some of the forum members will hop in to offer their opinions and feedback on controlability.
I have found the OF1400 easy to use and no problems with control. However, I can't think of when I've ever used a router freehand, so I can't speak to that. I only use them with templates/guides, edge guides, and recently the OF 1400 with guides stops on the guide rail.
Sparky
Member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2012
- Messages
- 158
I think the hardest part is getting used to holding it vs holding other routers because of the handle being different than what your used 2. I have seen a lot of people complain about it being tippy but once you get a feel for it it's great. I have had no complaints at all.
First router I ever felt comfortable with and made me appreciate the importance of a good router. You do need many of accessories that go with it, the edge guide being the first one. Half-inch shy has a very practical review of the 1400 that I would recommend.
Now I have the 700, 1010 and in the near future the 2200 is going to be part of my inventory as the 1400 spends more time in the CMS table.
Now I have the 700, 1010 and in the near future the 2200 is going to be part of my inventory as the 1400 spends more time in the CMS table.
Janmara1 said:
Hi,
When you say "free hand" do you mean completely non-guided? Such as free hand routing for inlays or the like? Or do you mean just hand held in general?
Seth
The 1400 is one of my favorite Festools. I wound of picking it over the 1010 because it accepts 1/2 inch shanks. One friendly heads up: the accessories really help with ease of use but they also significantly add to the cost. Check out Paul Marcel's videos on the tool....
Hi Seth
I meant that I would need to be able to use the router to make a maloof leg joint.my concern is that as the opening is small and I have to cut a ledge like a large capital c I would not be able to use a template and have to go freehand. I was thinking about control and being able to see the cut. More importantly routing in a straight line, as. You might possibly know by now an amateur so any advice would be helpful. I love festool as I find that the quality of my work has jumped ten fold
Thx
Marvin
I meant that I would need to be able to use the router to make a maloof leg joint.my concern is that as the opening is small and I have to cut a ledge like a large capital c I would not be able to use a template and have to go freehand. I was thinking about control and being able to see the cut. More importantly routing in a straight line, as. You might possibly know by now an amateur so any advice would be helpful. I love festool as I find that the quality of my work has jumped ten fold
Thx
Marvin
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
- Messages
- 8,426
Yes, I think a template guide or a bit with a bearing would be better. For straight cuts, I wouldn't try to freehand them. We make guides for that purpose.
waho6o9
Member
Maybe practice on scraps with templates,
guide bushings and free hand applications.
I suspect you'll do well.
guide bushings and free hand applications.
I suspect you'll do well.
nclemmons
Member
The Maloof leg joint uses a bearing-guided rabbeting bit. You can do that with the 1400.
Here's are photos of his leg joint that I think you are talking about:
http://www.canadianwoodworks.com/build-your-own-chair/rocking-chair-build-process/testing-rear-leg-joint.html
http://ronduvallwoodworking.blogspot.com/2011/12/december-15.html
http://alaskawood.blogspot.com/2012/12/sculpted-rocker.html
As I recall, Sam would cut the seat pieces square with a saw, glue them up and then route the rabbets. I took his course but forgot the steps involved. The seat rabbets were cut with a router. The leg dado I believe was cut on the table saw, but you could also use a router with a guide to keep it square.
Depending on the size of the rabbeting bit, I would suggest that you take a look at a base to give you more support on the router.
The base I'd consider is Festool part 492574
http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/routers/other-accessories/small-bore-base-492574
Neil
Here's are photos of his leg joint that I think you are talking about:
http://www.canadianwoodworks.com/build-your-own-chair/rocking-chair-build-process/testing-rear-leg-joint.html
http://ronduvallwoodworking.blogspot.com/2011/12/december-15.html
http://alaskawood.blogspot.com/2012/12/sculpted-rocker.html
As I recall, Sam would cut the seat pieces square with a saw, glue them up and then route the rabbets. I took his course but forgot the steps involved. The seat rabbets were cut with a router. The leg dado I believe was cut on the table saw, but you could also use a router with a guide to keep it square.
Depending on the size of the rabbeting bit, I would suggest that you take a look at a base to give you more support on the router.
The base I'd consider is Festool part 492574
http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/routers/other-accessories/small-bore-base-492574
Neil
