Festool 55req vs makita sp6000j1

[PFrench]

My experience with festool is better than Makita, not because the saw is much better, but because I have experienced much better service from Festool. Two examples, I had a rotex 125 go wrong after 2.5 years of hard labour, a had a warranty replacement in 2 days. I had 4 tools and an mft3 stolen and these were replaced under the included theft insurance. Up and running again very quickly. 

 

[kevinculle]

I've owned the Makita for about 4 years and it has never missed a beat or failed to deliver quality results.  When I redid my deck in ipe a couple years ago I borrowed my buddy's two 55" tracks and together with my two tracks I ran 14' long crosscut trims of 3/4" ipe and it cut like butter.  I've not used the Festool tracksaw and it may be more refined but it's hard to imagine that there is added value to it that justifies the cost difference.

 

[MaineShop]

I have both the makita and the festool, I also have the mft/3. I use a tracksaw daily in my shop. Both the tracksaws are excellent. I tend to reach for the festool a bit more with the tracksaws just because mostly I use it for breaking down sheet goods and I find the plunging action to be a little smoother for me and it tends to live right next to my sheet goods. The makita is very smooth though and it does seem to have a little more power for ripping hardwood which is not something I do often. And as far as tracks the makita can use the festool track and the hose fits, my makita also came in a makita blue systainer. I use the mft/3 prob once a week although I should have bought the regular mft because I almost never use the track and attachments. I find the table too small for most of the pieces I work with, I need a more rugged table for most of the sheet pieces I work with. I also have a full sized cabinet saw though.

Both good tools, if you want to save a buck get the makita. I would recommend against the mft/3 and just get the mft. Take the money you save and pick up a small contractor table saw for ripping small pieces, will be faster then setting up the mft for small rips.

My two cents
Adam

 

[acer66]

I can't comment on anything other than what's available here in the US and what I have purchased with my own money. I also can't comment on other forums posts, I don't read them, this is the forum I use. The Makita is more powerful than the TS 55 in my shop. I just don't see how anyone can argue the point and until they come over to my shop and show me I am wrong,, well I am just not wrong. I tested them side by side for months. Owned the TS 55, the TS 75 and the Makita.  I sold my TS 55 and 75 on this forum for a reason, I could of kept them all if I wanted too. The TS 75 was by far the best saw, it's just to big an heavy for my weak hands. And the  Makita beat out the TS 55 as far as power, my main concern. I will say it's time they update the Makita.

I purchase tools for work and I can purchase any tool I like, cost isn't an issue. And until that TS 55 gets a more powerful motor I can't use it. I would love to have the TS 55 as overall it's more of a finesse tool with better features than the Makita, but for me I need the most power in a lightweight package.

I don't see how the 240V version could be any better unless of course it has a more powerful motor, meaning it draws more current proportionally than the 110 version. Of course the 220V will draw less current, but generally the tools I have used that offer both 120V and 240 V versions offer exactly the same amount of power. Possibly the TS 55 120V verse 220V is the exception, I dont know. I haven't used the 240V version.

Maybe Ill buy the 240V and give it a try. I have a couple 240V Festool's in my shop.

What are you using the saw for that the TS55 is not powerful enough?

Thank you

 

[mrboult]

A note on the power issue. . .

I have always maintained that my TS55 is just as powerful as my Makita. But I'm in the UK and I recently read somewhere that due to Festool's universal motors, the TS55 loses a little power over in the US due to the power differences over there. .

I have no concrete information regarding this, but it does make sense given the amount of posts I read suggesting the Makita has noticeably more power, when I have never noticed this in 4+ years of using both saws frequently. .

 

[nickao]

All you need to do is read the specifications, the Festool is a 10 amp motor,. the Makita draws 12 amps.

You can prove the Makta is stronger by cutting something that the TS simply bogs down on. Then pull out the Makita and watch it blast though.

When I gang cut 2 or 3 - 3/4" panels the The TS 55 doesn't cut it nearly as well or as fast as the Makita.

The TS 55 actually has one of the smallest motors in the category and I suspect Festool does this becasue they don't want overlap with the TS 75. Festool is making a mistake becasue the TS 75 is to big so instead for going to the TS 75 many are forced to go to another brand. If Festool made the TS 55 with a 13 amp motor(making it the most powerful in its category) I am betting they would increase sales. IMHO, it's not going to steal from the TS 75. The TS 75 is just too big in physical for many people.

 

[BigfootBuilder]

I commented months ago on this and if I could go back in time I'd go back to the Makita. The Festool is underpowered, plain and simple. It bogs where it honestly shouldn't. It does OK in 3/4" sheet goods, but anything beyond that and it's fighting for its life.

I had a situation recently where a track saw was such a perfect tool for the scenario: Ripping the pitch of the roof into a ridge beam. Doug fir, so not like it's hardwood or anything. Had a 16' rip to do on both sides, and even going painfully slow it died into its low power limp mode 8 times over the course of those two cuts. Each time, get the vacuum, suck through the slotted housing to cool the motor down, repeat.

Considering ditching the TS55 for either the Makita again, a TS75, or f-it, the Mafell.

The Makita's extra power is a big plus - nay, necessity - for a saw in this size category. I wish Festool would update these things, and acknowledge this shortcoming, because it feels like they're just resting on their laurels...  :-\

 

[Bohdan]

[member=61469]BigfootBuilder[/member]

Were you using the correct blade (panther) for ripping or the standard one?

 

[LooseSox]

[member=61469]BigfootBuilder[/member]

Were you using the correct blade (panther) for ripping or the standard one?

Exactly what I ws going to ask. I used the panther blade 2 weeks ago and ripped about 7m of 28mm accacia and was quite surprised at how easily it went through it, probably was easier to cut through that than it is 18mm mdf with the 48t blade. Granted the panther blade was brand new, but still suprised me how easy it was to rip.

 

[BigfootBuilder]

[member=61469]BigfootBuilder[/member]

Were you using the correct blade (panther) for ripping or the standard one?

Exactly what I ws going to ask. I used the panther blade 2 weeks ago and ripped about 7m of 28mm accacia and was quite surprised at how easily it went through it, probably was easier to cut through that than it is 18mm mdf with the 48t blade. Granted the panther blade was brand new, but still suprised me how easy it was to rip.

Using the 28T universal blade. I didn't realize there was an even less toothy blade for ripping. Thanks for asking.

Not to threadjack, but Festool Panther vs Tenryu 12T?

 

[Lemwise]

I've used the Festool ATF 55 and the TS 55 EQ for nearly 20 years. It's the standard track saw on all shipyards here in the Netherlands. However, I prefer the Makita from the first moment I used it (which was yesterday). I have 3 of them now and it's the only track saw I will now use in my company. It's cheaper, has more power and the scoring feature really makes a difference when cutting plywood covered with HPL or Corian. The little tab that prevents the saw from tipping over on bevel cuts is also a very nice touch.

 

[mrboult]

I've used the Festool ATF 55 and the TS 55 EQ for nearly 20 years. It's the standard track saw on all shipyards here in the Netherlands. However, I prefer the Makita from the first moment I used it (which was yesterday). I have 3 of them now and it's the only track saw I will now use in my company. It's cheaper, has more power and the scoring feature really makes a difference when cutting plywood covered with HPL or Corian. The little tab that prevents the saw from tipping over on bevel cuts is also a very nice touch.

Keep an eye on the two adjustment knobs that keep the saw perfectly aligned with the rails. I've found they loosen off every single day on both my Makita track saws.
Also the 'anti-tip' tab has some play in it, so I wouldn't rely on that alone. . you still need to keep downward pressure on the saw's base plate when bevelling.

 

[Lemwise]

Keep an eye on the two adjustment knobs that keep the saw perfectly aligned with the rails. I've found they loosen off every single day on both my Makita track saws.

It's funny you mention that because I noticed this when I tried out the saw yesterday. I came up with a very quick and easy solution. There's a bit of room under the knobs so I put a rubber o-ring under the them (it's actually more like a rubber washer). I took an o-ring slightly thicker than the space under the knobs with them set how I wanted them, stretched it over the knobs and then pushed it under the knobs with a flat head screw driver. This provides enough grip so that the knobs stay in place. However, it remains to be seen if the o-rings will stay in place. If they don't, I'm sure I can come up with another solution.

 

[Lemwise]

The rubber washer underneath the knobs seemed like a good idea but they don't really stay in place. We've been busy with sheet goods nearly all day long and we've had the re-adjust the knobs several times on all three saws. This is no good so I've returned all three saws and tomorrow I will take delivery of three TS 55's. This is really the only negative about the saw but it makes them a pain to use.

 

[demographic]

Few people make a deal about the scoring "feature".
Err, isn't that just the same as setting the blade to 1 or 2mm depth on the TS 55?

Why does anyone need another knob to do that? Its not rocket surgery.

Other than that, I've worked with a bloke who has the Makita, seemed good enough to me.
The anti tip thing is a good idea though.

 

[Svar]

Few people make a deal about the scoring "feature".
Err, isn't that just the same as setting the blade to 1 or 2mm depth on the TS 55?
Why does anyone need another knob to do that? Its not rocket surgery.

You'd appreciate it if you had to cut a lot of melamine and such. Imagine switching back and forth form 1 to 20 mm depth after every cut on your TS55. Now do it 100 times in a row and you'll see the benefit of scoring feature.

 

[rljatl]

Has anyone called Makita about the adjustment knobs?  They may have a fix for that problem by now.

 

[Lemwise]

The problem is the way the adjuster works. The Makita has a compressible washer on the underside. You turn the knob and it squeezes out the washer so that it pushes against the rail. The washer is made from rubber so when you use the track the washer rubs against it and this causes it to turn back the knob. The got the design for this all wrong and there's no way to solve it.

 

[nickao]

My Makita is about 4 years old I think and I have not had any problems at all with those. I might have to adjust them once every couple months. This must be a saw to saw issue, possibly a batch issue.

My knobs ARE VERY TIGHT, they don't move easily at all. I have to apply force to spin them and no way they can move by themselves. Do you guys have knobs that are easy to spin?

My plastic is blue, is yours?

 

[Lemwise]

I had the problem with all 3 saws. It might be a batch issue but I don't have the time to find out if it is.