Festool 850 Planer

[John Klemm]

Seriously considering the purchase of Festool's 850 planer.  Two principle application:

* Leveling glue joints of door panels

* Creating rustic look to some of my wood applications

I currently do most of my work with a Felder CF531 and have a number of Festool toys (TS55, Domino, RO 150 and MFK 700).

If I can, I want to avoid adding a drum sander.

Any thoughts as to whether the 850 planer will sufficiently work for my principle two applications?  If not any suggestions?

Kind regards,

John

 

[tbellemare]

There's an HL 850 E promotion right now. You get the planer, which comes with the Standard Head, PLUS the Undulating Head thrown in for free. That's the head that is used for distressed looks.

You can do anything with this planer that you can with just about any other hand held planer and then some. Because of its design (the cutter is flush to the side, you can cut rabbets to any depth. It also can be used with a Bench Unit that holds it upside down so it can be used as a jointer. It has a groove down the length to accomodate chamfers and the full cutting depth is adjustable from 0 - 3.5 mm (0 - 9/64").

Tom

 

[Les]

For leveling glue joints, I use a scraper and then the ETS 150/3. No need for a planer.

 

[Hastings]

Hello John:

I too seem to have gravitated to woodworking tools beginning with 'F'.

"* Leveling glue joints of door panels"

I assume that you are using your Domino and your stock is 3/4". Why then is your joinery so far out that you need a planer to level it? I use my Domino all the time and joints are almost always flush - maybe a quick sand just to make it perfect. I use the 20MM present depth and make sure I'm not registering off the bench. It is important to remember to note the reference surface because the preset on the domino will NOT leave the tenon perfectly centered so it will matter which way round you assemble your joints. I lay out the frame to get the grain right and then pencil I light 'R' to indicate the reference surface.

I hope I have explained this clearly for you.

Hastings

 

[Jim Becker]

This is a great tool, but not one I'd use for "leveling" glue joints on panels as someone else has already stated. Scrape off the excess glue, preferably while it's still soft, and then just sand or use a hand-plane to finish. A powered narrow planer like this is going to be way too aggressive, even with minimal exposure for this application. IMHO, of course.

 

[richard.selwyn]

I used to use the Festool planer a lot - until I got a Felder.  Now I hardly ever use it.  It IS very good, but even the best electric planer is far too brutal (in my hands at least) for flattening a glue joint.  If I've really got a bad glue joint the Festool belt sander (in the special base with brushes - sorry don't know what its called) is perfect for smoothing glued up panels.  I had always shied away from hand planers after the tiny Stanley I got as a youngster, but since I've discover Veritas planes (I wish I could afford Lie Nielson) even I can plane by hand.  They also have a special cheap one which is a blade held in a plastic handle by a magent - ideal for removing glue from joints, into corners etc.

 

[John Klemm]

Thanks all for the constructive input.  I've decided to address the bad jointing at its source, proper calibration of my Felder.

The question still remains as to whether using the planer is the best / efficient way to produce a rustic facing.

Kind regards,

John

 

[justinmcf]

hi john, i agree with the other posters here, any kind of electric planer would be too aggressive for cleaning glue joints, stick with a scraper and sander.

i am using  the 850 planer with the undulating head for distressing timber, but it is not the be all and end all for creating that rustic look.
i also use a 5 inch grinder with a sanding attachment, you can buy 5 inch sanding discs from p16 grit, p24, p36, p40, p80 grit.
using the grinder with the planer is a great combination.

regards, justin.