maplestiltskin
Member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2015
- Messages
- 4
Hi there, this is my first post - I hope it may prove useful. I have had a precise CS70 for some time with the extension tables and the sliding table attachment but frankly the sliding table has been unused for literally years. Also I have become very frustrated with the standard crosscut fence/protractor assembly; it is simply is not accurate enough. So I wondered about combining an Incra Mitre 1000 HD and the CS 70 to give me the optimum performance. I have seen an application where a user has modified the saw table top to take the mitre gauge (http://www.fine-tools.com/incra-base-assembly.html), however I did not want to modify my saw in the same way.
So, after some contemplation and a few beers I came up with the idea of replacing the sliding table with one which would take an Incra mitre jig. Basically, I dis-assembled the sliding table assembly and replaced the table extrusion with one I made by laminating pieces of ply together to achieve the 42mm thickness of the table. I used standard Incra T-track on the bottom to take the locking nuts of the original festool assembly - although I had to replace the nuts with M6 square nuts (standard ones seem to work fine). I used Incra mitre track on the top and added some Incra T-track too - just because I might need it some time in the future - maybe...perhaps - well it seems like a good idea...and I can use a festool clamp or an Incra corner bracket to fix the fence down if I need to...
Ok so the bottom line is does it work? Well, I trued the mitre fence to the saw blade using an accurate square (Incra) and made a series of cuts at 30 degrees to make a hexagonal shape and hey presto I got a perfect hexagon first time, right off the saw! Better than I ever got any other way. Here are a few rather poor piks to give you an idea...
[attachthumb=1][attachthumb=2][attachthumb=3][attachthumb=4]
Just to be clear, to get the best result I locked the sliding table down (by increasing the friction of the bearing on the bottom of the slide, not using the 'locking nut which pulls the whole table off axis.) so it could not move and increased the friction in the mitre gauge slider so that it also did not move. This meant I was only using he mitre gauge as a registration fence and could use a clamp to hold the 'wood' or in this case mdf still and use the saw as a pull-saw. Worked first time though - and a few more since times as well.
Having gone to the trouble of doing this, there are a few things I would like to point out:
1. I made the table longer than the original extrusion so that it would hold the full length of the mitre gauge slider bar.
2. The 'locking' nut does lock the table extrusion and stop it flying about, but it does also pull the unit off axis so don't use it for anything other than to transport the unit around unless you intend to true up the mitre gauge fence afterwards.
3. It does take a bit of time to set the whole assembly (as per the original festool instructions) up but it should remain accurate once done - we will see...
4. An added advantage for me is I finally get to use the damn sliding table which gives me a little more support to the left of the blade AND it converts really easily from rip to cross-cut - even easier and more accurate than the festool one - bonus in my book!
5. I took a look at a CS50 which has the same sliding table assembly as the CMS and I think the same approach may work there as well.
If you don't have one of these sliding table assemblies, then I would suggest building your own base and building in integrated side table for the mitre jig - it will probably be even better and you won't have the two bars of the assembly sticking out the front of the machine either..Its just that here in the UK the sell the whole thing as a kit and the inexperienced (i.e. me) think its a good deal!
Oh - you may just about be able to see that I took off the Festool folding legs and replaced them with my own base which runs on casters and houses a dedicated extractor unit. That way I can move the whole thing around easily in the shop and just press the go button to start creating..
Sorry this is a bit longer than I intended but hope it is relatively clear and may help someone...just hope I put it in the right place!
So, after some contemplation and a few beers I came up with the idea of replacing the sliding table with one which would take an Incra mitre jig. Basically, I dis-assembled the sliding table assembly and replaced the table extrusion with one I made by laminating pieces of ply together to achieve the 42mm thickness of the table. I used standard Incra T-track on the bottom to take the locking nuts of the original festool assembly - although I had to replace the nuts with M6 square nuts (standard ones seem to work fine). I used Incra mitre track on the top and added some Incra T-track too - just because I might need it some time in the future - maybe...perhaps - well it seems like a good idea...and I can use a festool clamp or an Incra corner bracket to fix the fence down if I need to...
Ok so the bottom line is does it work? Well, I trued the mitre fence to the saw blade using an accurate square (Incra) and made a series of cuts at 30 degrees to make a hexagonal shape and hey presto I got a perfect hexagon first time, right off the saw! Better than I ever got any other way. Here are a few rather poor piks to give you an idea...
[attachthumb=1][attachthumb=2][attachthumb=3][attachthumb=4]
Just to be clear, to get the best result I locked the sliding table down (by increasing the friction of the bearing on the bottom of the slide, not using the 'locking nut which pulls the whole table off axis.) so it could not move and increased the friction in the mitre gauge slider so that it also did not move. This meant I was only using he mitre gauge as a registration fence and could use a clamp to hold the 'wood' or in this case mdf still and use the saw as a pull-saw. Worked first time though - and a few more since times as well.
Having gone to the trouble of doing this, there are a few things I would like to point out:
1. I made the table longer than the original extrusion so that it would hold the full length of the mitre gauge slider bar.
2. The 'locking' nut does lock the table extrusion and stop it flying about, but it does also pull the unit off axis so don't use it for anything other than to transport the unit around unless you intend to true up the mitre gauge fence afterwards.
3. It does take a bit of time to set the whole assembly (as per the original festool instructions) up but it should remain accurate once done - we will see...
4. An added advantage for me is I finally get to use the damn sliding table which gives me a little more support to the left of the blade AND it converts really easily from rip to cross-cut - even easier and more accurate than the festool one - bonus in my book!
5. I took a look at a CS50 which has the same sliding table assembly as the CMS and I think the same approach may work there as well.
If you don't have one of these sliding table assemblies, then I would suggest building your own base and building in integrated side table for the mitre jig - it will probably be even better and you won't have the two bars of the assembly sticking out the front of the machine either..Its just that here in the UK the sell the whole thing as a kit and the inexperienced (i.e. me) think its a good deal!
Oh - you may just about be able to see that I took off the Festool folding legs and replaced them with my own base which runs on casters and houses a dedicated extractor unit. That way I can move the whole thing around easily in the shop and just press the go button to start creating..
Sorry this is a bit longer than I intended but hope it is relatively clear and may help someone...just hope I put it in the right place!