Festool Domino 500 - Large Stock

[RodBillett]

Hey All, Newbie here, and to Festool Domino 500.  So I have been scouring over the forum and read the Domino "Supplemental"  but have a interesting Joint size.

I am making a crib for my GrandDaughter who is expected in April.  The ends of the Crib are made from 2 3/4 x 1 3/4  hickory.  Each end will have 4 joints that are  1 3/4 (45mm) thick and 2 3/4 (70mm)long  (Mating surface area of the 2 pieces being joined)    and one surface will be end grain and the other edge grain .

If this was a regular Mortise and Tenon, the tenon would be 15mm thick by 23mm wide.  a 10x50 domino is 10mm thick and 23mm wide so this is pretty close, but a single 10x50 domino doesnt seem like it would be strong in this situation?

I cant get any other scenarios using 8mm to really work out.

How should I domino this joint?

 

[cdconey]

Two rows of dominos has worked well for me in the past on thicker stock.

do some test layouts/cuts to see what works best for your layout and help determine the proper size tennon to use.

 

[ChuckM]

If for any reason the method Cdconey describes doesn't work, another approach is to make larger mortises by resetting the fence and cutting and overlapping the previous mortises to make them thicker. Cut custom tenons to match the mortises. With good planning, you may be able to use stock tenons intended for the DF700.

This method should be used as a last resort.

 

[Birdhunter]

Have you thought about making the crib as a knockdown? A solid Domino and a connector make a strong joint.

 

[jeffinsgf]

I would use two 8mm or two 10mm Dominos. Which I would use would depend a little on the species of wood. 8x50s are probably what I would end up using. That gives you the closest to the thirds norm with two extra glue surfaces. 10s might make either the outer skin or the center a little thin. I usually do a mock up with scrap stock milled the same as my project to test my layout and indexing method.

Speaking of indexing. If your material is very carefully machined, you can flip your stock and use the same offset from both faces. BUT!! if there's any concern about thickness variance (like...you didin't mill it yourself on equipment you trust) you should index from the same face with two different offsets.

 

[cdconey]

I would use two 8mm or two 10mm Dominos. Which I would use would depend a little on the species of wood. 8x50s are probably what I would end up using. That gives you the closest to the thirds norm with two extra glue surfaces. 10s might make either the outer skin or the center a little thin. I usually do a mock up with scrap stock milled the same as my project to test my layout and indexing method.

Speaking of indexing. If your material is very carefully machined, you can flip your stock and use the same offset from both faces. BUT!! if there's any concern about thickness variance (like...you didin't mill it yourself on equipment you trust) you should index from the same face with two different offsets.

What I usually do when using two rows of dominos is set the fence for the lower row of mortises and then use an offset block on top of the stock with the same fence setting. That ensures the reference setting is the same for the dominos from the face of the stock. 

 

[jeffinsgf]

I like that. I have been doing all of one, then resetting the position and going back through the entire stack again. Your spacer block would reduce handling as well as maintaining one setting. Only question is, if you're working to a pencil line for the center of the mortise, how does that work with your spacer blocks? 

I have had pretty good luck with indexing from both sides, too, but my planer is dialed in and I'm pretty fussy about taking a light pass and locking the bed for final thickness.

 

[cdconey]

Your spacer block would reduce handling as well as maintaining one setting. Only question is, if you're working to a pencil line for the center of the mortise, how does that work with your spacer blocks? 

If spacing is critical, I will plane the block down.

Another method you can use is stock ply/MDF/hardwood and use playing cards to add to the thickness to get you there- or what you would consider 'close enough'.

As long as the reference face and offset is the same, and you have two rows of mortise/tenon, being off center just a tad shouldn't effect the overall joint strength.

IMO what is important is keeping the same reference and same offsets. 

 

[ChuckM]

I've used spacer blocks, but sometimes it's not necessary to use them and instead the thickness gauge in the machine can be used, depending on the offset required.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I've used spacer blocks, but sometimes it's not necessary to use them and instead the thickness gauge in the machine can be used, depending on the offset required.

I have done both of those myself Chuck, and don't really have a preference. They both work ok, it just kind of depends on the situation.
I like to reference off of the base of the unit, when possible, that requires spacers, since the thickness gauge has no effect there.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

I made a crib several years back for our granddaughter. I follower plans I had in a WOOD magazine (https://www.woodmagazine.com/3-in-1-bed-for-all-ages-downloadable-plan ). It's a break-down design that grows with the kid.

Mike