Festool Domino Lateral Offset Spacers

[88keys]

Hi All,

Long-time lurker here, but today I thought I'd actually register and share something that I 3d printed that might be of use. I did not see anything quite like this in the forums or online, so apologies if it has already been discussed/made.

I 3d printed these attachments, which connect securely to the Festool domino cross stop system (498590). They project the spacing offset directly from the cross stop to the workpiece. The two sides are identically matched, so it is easy to achieve exact offsets on both left- and right-sided workpieces by setting the left and right cross stops to the same offset distance. No need to re-measure every piece and deal with pencil lines and hand-eye centering. Another advantage is that one can record the offsets of each mortise position and come back at a later time to cut additional pieces that will still fit together seamlessly.

I used these to position and cut 60 mortises for a set of shoji frames that I'm constructing. Each joint had either double or triple tenons of different sizes, so exactness was essential. The frames came together the first time without any screw-ups (which is a first for me), and I give credit entirely to these attachments.

Anyway, I've posted the plans here on MakerWorld. I hope someone else finds them useful!

 

[MacBoy]

Super nice idea! It will help in certain situations. Also, makes additional use of the Cross Stop.

From your first photo, I see you’ve clamped down the Cross Stop. How did you ensure the stock will be perpendicular to the Domino?

Thank you for sharing.

 

[smorgasbord]

They project the spacing offset directly from the cross stop to the workpiece.

Can you explain that further, as I don't get what that means?

Maybe a photo cutting a workpiece with them would help, too.

 

[festal]

Can you explain that further, as I don't get what that means?

Maybe a photo cutting a workpiece with them would help, too.

same. I don't get it need an example

 

[88keys]

Super nice idea! It will help in certain situations. Also, makes additional use of the Cross Stop.

From your first photo, I see you’ve clamped down the Cross Stop. How did you ensure the stock will be perpendicular to the Domino?

Thank you for sharing.

Thanks. I kept the stock perpendicular by ensuring the cut face was pressed flush against the domino face. It was wide enough stock that this maneuver was sufficient for keeping it perpendicular. If it had been thinner, I probably would have set up a guide fence to hold the stock in place.

 

[tjbnwi]

For end grain plunges?

Tom

 

[88keys]

Can you explain that further, as I don't get what that means?

Maybe a photo cutting a workpiece with them would help, too.

Of course! Sorry I didn't explain it that well.

Basically, on many of my projects, I find myself having to cut mortises with specific (and somewhat awkward) offsets on multiple workpieces. For example, in my window frame project, I wanted to cut multiple mortises in the ends of my rails/stiles. These slots would be offset from the edge by 12mm and 25mm, and would be mated with similarly spaced mortises on the stiles.

The easiest way to line up such a setup is with pencil marks, but I didn't want any slop in my joints, and I had to cut 32 pieces, so I needed a quick and accurate way to line up each cut reproducibly.

I set up the 3d printed offset on the left stop block, figured out where it needed to be set for the 12mm and the 25mm offset mortises, and noted the numbers on the cross stop gauge (which is pretty good with mm accuracy). I could then cut all the left hand pieces at once, sliding the left cross stop to its two set points as needed.

Next, to cut the mirror pieces, I removed the left cross stop and installed the right cross stop with the offset block. I was immediately able to cut the two mortises on these pieces by using the same two settings that I had recorded from the previous step.

This process works both for plunging into end grain and for cutting mortises on the face of stiles.

I have since taken down the whole setup, so taking photos would be pretty difficult right now. Hopefully the above description helps a bit..

 

[MacBoy]

Thanks for the explanation.

Now that you’ve had a bit of downtime, any improvements you might do for next time?

For example, is the length of the Offset Block still a good dimension, or should it be a tad longer / shorter?

 

[smorgasbord]

OK, so the idea is that instead of being limited to the fixed pin/flap/paddle spacing (20mm, 37mm, & 50mm on the DF700), use the 1mm index stops on the cross stops, and thus your spacers to map them back closer to the cutter.

That's pretty cool. IIRC, the cross-stops start at 100mm, so if you made the spacers 100mm, then it'd be a simple subtraction to set the stops.

There are also table mounting options that provide stops, like this one:

Thread 'High precision Domino jig for narrow parts '

Dec 17, 2019

Hi All,

My first post here, just finished a short video of my Domino jig and thought someone might interested. If you are curious how I manage to keep the Festool clamps from falling down by themselves I made a short movie of that as well. This is a feature I really think Festool should design into the clamps, should be very simple using a spring loaded small ball, spring clip or something else…

Edit2. Think I managed to post direct URLs to youtube videos [smile]

High precision domino jig=youtu.be
Rail clamp modification=youtu.be

[attachimg=1]

• Ola C
• Replies: 43
• Forum: Festool Jigs & Tool Enhancements

 

[fritter63]

I 3d printed these attachments, which connect securely to the Festool domino cross stop system (498590). They project the spacing offset directly from the cross stop to the workpiece. The two sides are identically matched, so it is easy to achieve exact offsets on both left- and right-sided workpieces by setting the left and right cross stops to the same offset distance. No need to re-measure every piece and deal with pencil lines and hand-eye centering. Another advantage is that one can record the offsets of each mortise position and come back at a later time to cut additional pieces that will still fit together seamlessly.

Was this because the Festool Trim Stop wouldn't go narrow enough?