Festool Domino tutorial for casework

[mhadler]

I just purchased a Festool domino and have played around with it, but I'm still having a hard time getting the grasp of the easiest way to do case work and join the sides to each other so they are flush.  In my tests, I seem to have issues with getting the joints flush and I think it has to do with the reference edge I am using when making my plunges.  I have the boards hanging off of my MFT, so the table surface isn't getting in the way of the referencing

I've gotten some to line up flush or close to flush, but I'm looking for a tutorial or something on how to line up and mark the boards then use the proper side as a reference for the plunges.  Right now I might be over thinking things, but I don't want to ruin some good cherry plywood until I can get a system down that allows me to repeat it consistently.  Can anyone point me in the right direction if there is a video or tutorial on this? 

Thanks!

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

One of the most comprehensive videos on the Domino is Paul-Marcel's four part series.

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7953856D6EE12F44

Also, Peter Parfitt has a good series on the Domino with application videos.

 

[sprior]

I'm relatively new to the Domino too, but have now done a few projects with it and understand your confusion.  The key to understanding the Domino is to understand what you are referencing from - I don't think the videos I've seen explain the key point.  Think about making a corner where the end of one piece is butted up against the face of the other.  So first think about the hole you're going to cut from the face.  You've got the fence against the end of that piece (which is going to be the exposed edge of your corner) and you're effectively measuring from that outside face in to where the cutter is to make the slot.  The fact that you're measuring from the outside to the inside is the important thing to remember.  So when we then move to making the slot in the end of the other piece we also have to reference from the outside to the inside, so you place that piece flat on the table with the outside facing face UP and that's what you place the fence against.  Then you will have a perfectly flush joint.  You run into trouble when you get confused and reference one piece from the inside and the other from the outside.

I highly recommend doing as I did and take a scrap piece of your typical sheet good (in my case I used 3/4" melamine, but plywood is perfect too) maybe two feet long with parallel edges and cut it in half.  Then use a magic marker and mark the "inside" of both pieces.  Referencing the paddles off the edges clamp one piece vertically and putting the fence across the edge cut the holes in the face of that board.  Then clamp the other piece with the side marked "inside" facing DOWN and again referencing the paddles to the edge cut the holes in the edge of that piece.  Then dry fit with dominos in the holes and if you held the machine square and didn't wiggle then you should have a perfectly fitting joint.  Keep that sample joint around to get into your head before you make joints in the future.

The case of joining the edge of one board to the middle of the face of another is similar, you just have to keep thinking about what you are referencing from.  The other trick that I've used in this case is that with a 3/4" thick board the bottom of the Domino machine can be used as the reference to the cutter and you'll be close (but not exactly centered).  As long as you reference from the same direction that little off center won't matter.

Another tip is that I've made a practice of cutting the domino holes in the edges of my pieces with the narrow "perfect fit" setting and the holes on the face pieces one setting wider.  That way every joint I make has one exact hole and the other with a little adjustability in case the pieces are slightly different widths - that way you can keep one edge "perfect" for all your joints and have and variation on the less visible edge (if there is one).

Maybe I'm the one who should make the video.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Reference surfaces are the key.  The videos Shane pointed out about the Domino from me talk more about the tool, not its uses.  That would fill a dozen videos and be a work in progress.

Sorry for the self-promotion on the following list of videos that might help answer your question (or make more!):

I did a vanity build long ago.  You don't need to watch the whole thing especially since its sculpted design will either intrigue you or make you want to hit your head on something   But, episodes 2-4 cover the frame of the vanity's top and bottom segments; both have different Dominoing requirements and I go through all that and how the references surfaces are key.  Here's a link to episode 2 on my blog; if you view it on a computer (not mobile) you'll get a table-of-contents for the rest of the episodes at the top.  But here's episode 3 and episode 4

On Festool's blog, they (= Shane) posted an Ultimate Domino Guide with a number of Domino resources pulled together.  As a disclaimer, a bunch of my blog articles on the Domino are listed there.  There are more especially with projects as I'll list episodes particularly heavy on the Domino under the Domino section of my blog.  The label cloud on the blog has 'Domino' on it (and Domizilla).  Click either one for all the articles and project build episodes dealing with it.

Lastly, one of the Domino crib sheet videos that goes over miscellaneous Domino usage tips covered using the 500's thickness gauge (700's height gauge). That one mentions how reference surfaces are important to track, that mortises don't have to be dead center, and why off-center mortises can actually be much better at assembly time (which indirectly shows why you need to keep reference surfaces in line).

 

[mhadler]

Thanks Paul!  I've actually watched almost all of your videos and you do a great job explaining things.  They are invaluable!  I always look forward to the new one's.   Also, thanks for pointing me to the specific videos of the domino in use.  I now recall you using it in the sculpted vanity project, so I'll have to go back and watch again.  

Mike

 

[marty schlosser]

Reference surfaces are the key. 

Although I agree wholeheartedly that reference surfaces are the key, there is also another point that should be made.  I've found that in rectangular work, keeping the unit perpendicular to the surface being machined is essential.  There, the right-angle guide that's screwed onto the base of the unit is indispensable, as it provides a greater reference face.

Hope this helps.